Stalls / rough in cold weather only

2000 FORD EXPEDITION
92,000 MILES • V8 • 4WD • AUTOMATIC
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LAWYERS2
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Ford 2000 Expedition. For the last 6 years it runs rough, pops a generic check engine light, and stalls at low idle but only when the temperature outside is about 25 degrees or below. Have tried replacing the plugs, fuel filter, air filter, coils, flush injectors, using higher octane fuel, etc. Have heard from other owners that they have experienced the same problem and have had no success at diagnosis or repair, thus being very frustrated. Would be happy to hear of any suggestions. Respond to law_offices_ohio@yahoo.com. Thank you.enter your question...
Dec 17, 2010 at 2:18 AM
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52D
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have you had a fuel pressure check done. the fuel pump is commonly overlooked due to the pain in replacement. low fuel psi can cause hard starts,rough running , lagging ,miss fires and more. i know from exp.
if you go to autozone they have a tester you can use to test your car. but bring $150, they want it as collateral to use the tester. too many people stealing them i guess.( if you haggle a bit you can get them to send a tech out with the tester and not have to have the money).
Dec 17, 2010 at 2:39 AM
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LAWYERS2
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I will do as you suggest, however please note that the vehicle only exhibits the symptom when the outside temperature is about 20 degrees or less. When the ambient temperature is not very cold the vehicle runs perfectly, and this has been the case for years. Do you still suggest only the fuel pressure as the culprit? Also what pressure should I expect and at what point would it be too low thus necessitating replacement of the fuel pump? Again thank you very much for your time, suggestion(s) and input. Rick, lawyers2@yahoo.com
Dec 17, 2010 at 8:14 PM
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52D
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checking the fuel psi is to see if its the fuel pump or if the problem is another cause. it's to eliminate the fuel psi as a problem, while at auto zone have them run the codes that have the engine light on as well.
the code check is free,and could get an idea what else mite be bad. getting enough info before buying parts saves money.
other problem it could be. which is why you check
Spark plugs. did you use platinum or the cheapest. the cheap plugs only last about a year or so. were they gapped right when put in?

Vaccum line. mice like to chew these.

Wiring. mice like to chew wires covering off and sometimes the wires too. one got in my moms car and chewed the wires over the back the motor that ran charging and engine. open the hood and look in the V of the motor block around the back intake, mice like to leave/tree seeds and chewed acorns shells,pinecone bits in the top the motor. Hedge hogs like belts plug wires and hoses more.

Water. could have water in fuel. next fillup put in 2 bottles drygas. gas stations can get water in they're fuel from trucker washing the tanks out. or steal gas for personal use and replace with water so the load balances out.i've seen cars get motor wreaked, they only got gas and pumped a full tank of water.

timing chain maybe streached a bit. if it gets loose enough it can jump time on the motor. motor won't run at all if that happens.

CPU Temp sender. choke for fuel injection is to open the injectors a bit more when cold. the cpu uses a temp sensor to tell it the motor is cold and needs more to run right. you may not notice in warmer weather.

TPS (throttle positioning sensor) THIS PART HAS TO BE DONE BY A PRO. NOT A BACK YARD MECHANIC. TPS could be failing or out of adjustment if someones messed with unscrewing it. not knowing what it was. where the valve plate is on the other side from the cable for the peddle on the intake is a little box with 3 to 6 wires going in it. thats the TPS ,normal held by 2 screws.


Read these guides, they will help you figure this out

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service
Dec 22, 2010 at 3:26 PM
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EROB71
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My 2000 ford expedition keeps stalling and seems to idle real high. When it stalls it starts right up it only stalls when im slowing down at a stop or red light or either when i'm parking or making a slow turn but it starts right back up. I changed the spark plugs, that didnt help. Any idea what this could be?
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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FIXITMR
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vacuum leak or malfunctioning IAC/ICV vavle. any codes to be read?
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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EROB71
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no codes that i know of. can you tell me what an iac/icv is?
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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FIXITMR
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idle control valve
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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RCFOOTE19
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How you figured out what the problem was...I have same exact problem and had plugs replaced and that didn't work.
Thanks
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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STEVESPORT
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5.4L engine. Engine stalls and won't restart. Let set for 2 hours or more and then will restart and not seem to give any trouble for a few days to a week. When I try to start it after it stalls it acts like it's choking. Could it be the catalytic converter, air cleaner or fuel pump. I just changed the fuel filter a couple of weeks ago. This seems to happen when my fuel in the tank is on the low side. Any help would be most appreciated. I can't donate at this time but I will when my finances improve
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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HAs the check engine light come on? Have you checked fuel pump pressure? When it doesn't restart, have you checked to see if it is getting spark and fuel to the engine?

Let me know.

Joe
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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AS he first mentioned, it could be an issue with a vacuum leak. On the rear of the throttle body is a vacuum line that has a 90 degree turn in it. They have been known to dry rot and leak. As far as the Idle air control valve, remove it and make sure the pintel is moving when the key is turned on and off.
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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KRISTAL43
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Finally. I've been having this issue for six months. Engine stall after drivinc long or short distances. There is a second solenoid on the BACK firewall under the plastic cover on the battery side. Until u replace it, if you'll take a screwdriver and touch those two screws together, it will fire right up. Make sure the key is turned on. Good luck. I am so happy. Any problems e mail me.
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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RICHK138
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What would cause my truck to occasionally "choke out" from a dead stop and idle roughly when engine is warm but not hot. It hasn't completely stalled yet when it "chokes" but it leaves you in the intersection for a couple seconds. I have already had the PCV valve, EGR valve and PFE sensor replaced but it did not make a difference.
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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CJ MEDEVAC
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Our problem was similar to yours--see if this helps at all_____https://www.2carpros.com/questions/2005-ford-escape-rough-idle-at-low-rpm_____The Medic
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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RASMATAZ
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Here's other suggestions of mine

Check and test the following below:

Oxygen sensor.
Catalytic converter.
Fuel injectors dirty/sticking.
Mass airflow sensor/Airflow meter.
Throttle position sensor.
Crankshaft position sensor
Knock sensor
Manifold absolute pressure sensor.
EGR Valve
Fuel pressure regulator leaking or defective fuel pump.
Fuel contamination.
Foul/defective spark plugs.
Open spark plug wires.
Ignition coil/Coil packs defective.
Incorrect ignition timing.
Cap and rotor.

Note:If it doesn't apply disregard it and keep testing.
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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MALBERTI1
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when coming to a stop my truck looses rpms and stalls sometimes. mostly once the engine warms up.
it seems to be doing this when the trans is downshifting from second to first.
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Has the check engine light come on?
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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MALBERTI1
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yes . when i checked the code it was a p1450. but i am not sure what needs to be changed
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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VICTORDEAN
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my 2001 experdition stalls even in neutral
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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DANDY1009
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While driving and either stopping or accelerating the engine stops most particularly when the air conditioning is on.
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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WRENCHTECH
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Does it immediately start back up?
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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DANDY1009
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No it does not, it waits for few minutes. then starts well.
Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)
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WRENCHTECH
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That's good, you will have a short window to test.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.



Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Mar 17, 2019 at 8:17 AM (Merged)