Stalls / rough in cold weather only

Tiny
LAWYERS2
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD EXPEDITION
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 92,000 MILES
Ford 2000 Expedition. For the last 6 years it runs rough, pops a generic check engine light, and stalls at low idle but only when the temperature outside is about 25 degrees or below. Have tried replacing the plugs, fuel filter, air filter, coils, flush injectors, using higher octane fuel, etc. Have heard from other owners that they have experienced the same problem and have had no success at diagnosis or repair, thus being very frustrated. Would be happy to hear of any suggestions. Respond to law_offices_ohio@yahoo. Com. Thank you. Enter your question.
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Friday, December 17th, 2010 AT 2:18 AM

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Tiny
52D
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Have you had a fuel pressuse check done. The fuel pump is commonly overlooked due to the pain in raplacement. Low fuel psi can cause hard starts, rough running, lagging, miss fires and more. I know from exp.
If you go to autozone they have a tester you can use to test your car. But bring $150, they want it as collateral to use the tester. Too many people stealing them I guess.( If you haggle a bit you can get them to send a tech out with the tester and not have to have the money).
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Friday, December 17th, 2010 AT 2:39 AM
Tiny
LAWYERS2
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I will do as you suggest, however please note that the vehicle only exhibits the symptom when the outside temperature is about 20 degrees or less. When the ambient temperature is not very cold the vehicle runs perfectly, and this has been the case for years. Do you still suggest only the fuel pressure as the culprit? Also what pressure should I expect and at what point would it be too low thus necessitating replacement of the fuel pump? Again thank you very much for your time, suggestion(s) and input. Rick, lawyers2@yahoo. Com
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Friday, December 17th, 2010 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
52D
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Checking the fuel psi is to see if its the fuel pump or if the problem is another cause. It's to eliminate the fuel psi as a problem, while at auto zone have them run the codes that have the engine light on as well.
The code check is free, and could get an idea what else mite be bad. Getting enough info before buying parts saves money.
Other problem it could be. Which is why you check
Spark plugs. Did you use platinum or the cheapest. The cheap plugs only last about a year or so. Were they gapped right when put in?

Vaccum line. Mice like to chew these.

Wiring. Mice like to chew wires covering off and sometimes the wires too. One got in my moms car and chewed the wires over the back the motor that ran charging and engine. Open the hood and look in the V of the motor block around the back intake, mice like to leave/tree seeds and chewed acorns shells, pinecone bits in the top the motor. Hedge hogs like belts plug wires and hoses more.

Water. Could have water in fuel. Next fillup put in 2 bottles drygas. Gas stations can get water in they're fuel from trucker washing the tanks out. Or steal gas for personal use and replace with water so the load balances out.I've seen cars get motor wreaked, they only got gas and pumped a full tank of water.

Timing chain maybe streached a bit. If it gets loose enough it can jump time on the motor. Motor won't run at all if that happens.

CPU Temp sender. Choke for fuel injection is to open the injectors a bit more when cold. The cpu uses a temp sensor to tell it the motor is cold and needs more to run right. You may not notice in warmer weather.

TPS (throttle positioning sensor) THIS PART HAS TO BE DONE BY A PRO. NOT A BACK YARD MECHANIC. TPS could be failing or out of adjustment if someones messed with unscrewing it. Not knowing what it was. Where the valve plate is on the other side from the cable for the peddle on the intake is a little box with 3 to 6 wires going in it. Thats the TPS, normal held by 2 screws.
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Wednesday, December 22nd, 2010 AT 3:26 PM

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