My truck will not start with the ignition

Tiny
ANONYMOUS
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 DODGE RAM
  • 180,000 MILES
My truck will not start with the ignition. It has plenty of power I can jump start the starter but when I turn the key to crank nothing happens, Ive switched out the starter relay and tested it for power. It was cranking about 4 weeks ago than it got cold and I tried it once and it turned a bit than quit. What could I have shorted out or what else could be the problem? It is a Cummins
Sunday, November 25th, 2012 AT 9:33 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,757 POSTS
You can divide the system into four parts, and each one can be tested at the starter relay socket. You can use a test light or a digital voltmeter. Ground the test light or voltmeter, then probe the four terminals in the socket. (Disregard the unused one in the middle). One must have battery voltage all the time. If not, check the wire going back to the battery positive. One must have battery voltage when you turn the ignition switch to "crank". If it does not, check the ignition switch and the terminals in its electrical connector.

Now move your test light or voltmeter ground wire to the battery positive post because we'll be looking for a ground path at the two remaining terminals. You should read battery voltage, (negative, but that's irrelevant), or the test light should be bright on the two remaining terminals. If only one of the two shows a good ground path, put the shifter in "reverse" or "drive". If the voltage goes away, that is the neutral safety switch circuit and it is working. If the voltage stays there, that is the starter solenoid wire and it is good. Troubleshoot the circuit with no continuity to ground.

Those four measurements will work on any starter relay, however, if you have a manual transmission there will be a clutch switch in the same circuit as the ignition switch. You should still have battery voltage on one terminal when the ignition switch is in the "crank" position but you'll have to press the clutch pedal at the same time. Also, there will just be a ground wire instead of a neutral safety switch but you still should find two wires that read to ground when the tester's ground lead is on the battery's positive post.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, November 25th, 2012 AT 10:09 PM
Tiny
CMERCIER87
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
So I tested it and theres no power going to any of the terminals I checked the wire going through the positive and its sending voltage through
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 26th, 2012 AT 12:01 AM
Tiny
CMERCIER87
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
All the other ones have voltage when I tested them how you said.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 26th, 2012 AT 12:05 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,757 POSTS
Are you saying there's no voltage on terminal 30 or 87? If that's correct, check for a blown fuse in the under-hood fuse box.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 26th, 2012 AT 12:56 AM
Tiny
CMERCIER87
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Haha ya simple blown fuse sorry for wasting time
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 26th, 2012 AT 11:15 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,757 POSTS
What do you mean wasting my time? Wish they were all that easy and inexpensive to fix. Any idea why that fuse blew?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, November 26th, 2012 AT 11:57 PM
Tiny
CMERCIER87
  • MEMBER
  • 7 POSTS
Not to sure its turning now no problems no indication of it blowing again. Maybe all the slow cranking it was doing before?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, November 27th, 2012 AT 12:27 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links