2000 Chevrolet Silverado dash lights

Tiny
WIRENUT2002
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 CHEVROLET SILVERADO
  • 4.8L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
I have replaced the headlight switch about 6 times. Traced the wiring thru and can not find any shorts, but when I install the new switch it works for a couple seconds and burns out again, also went thru the grounds, fuses, bcm, removed the speedo the radio to check if each is shorting out the switch nothing still shorts
Thursday, December 11th, 2014 AT 6:36 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
Are you sure it's the switch and not burnt and loose contacts at the switch plug?
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Friday, December 12th, 2014 AT 2:58 AM
Tiny
WIRENUT2002
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I have checked all the wire in the plug going to the switch with a volt meter and test light
power coming into the switch and going out and no lumination power at the instrument cluster, radio, heater control panel, and this last switch that was installed plunged it in and poof a little smoke rolled out the switch and it did nothing as it had burnt out
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Friday, December 12th, 2014 AT 5:08 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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That isn't what I asked you. If the contacts in the plug don't grip real tight to the blades on the switch, the high resistance will overheat them which will weaken them even further.

If you are really burning the switch out, that would be an indication that something that it feeds is overloaded or shorted. I would expect the fuse that feeds the switch to burn out first. Check and make sure someone hasn't replaced fusible link with regular wire somewhere.
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Friday, December 12th, 2014 AT 3:04 PM
Tiny
WIRENUT2002
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No one has worked on the truck before and I have been the only one that has looked thru the wiring now it is a 1 owner truck.
My main question where is the wire from the switch for dash lights tie into as per junction box or module. I have power in and out of the switch no power to the illumination wire on the instrument panels and the fuse holds but over powers the reostat on the interior dimmer light switch and burns out the reostat on the switch. If I can find the j box to see if it is back feeding or shorting to ground
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Friday, December 12th, 2014 AT 4:00 PM
Tiny
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The description given for the junction block is " under left side of dash near left kick panel"
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Friday, December 12th, 2014 AT 4:12 PM
Tiny
WIRENUT2002
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You would not have a picture or wire diagram of that would you
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Friday, December 12th, 2014 AT 4:14 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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I would have posted it if I did. This should be very obvious. It may have multiple plugs going into one housing. The wiring from the fuse box has to go to it.
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Friday, December 12th, 2014 AT 4:22 PM
Tiny
WIRENUT2002
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Found it should I have bleed thru on any of the pins when I did a bench test on the block out of the truck I have some pins ohm out that is without any relays or wires attached to the disb block
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Friday, December 12th, 2014 AT 6:06 PM
Tiny
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Anything that would beed thru on the block out of truck on a bench test
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Tuesday, December 16th, 2014 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
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I have no idea what you are trying to do.
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Tuesday, December 16th, 2014 AT 3:43 PM
Tiny
WIRENUT2002
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I have the distributor relay block out of the truck sitting on my work bench and taking a test meter and homing out the terminals and I have continuatity bleeding thru terminals is this normal or should each terminal be isolated on the relay disturb block
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Tuesday, December 16th, 2014 AT 3:52 PM
Tiny
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Ohming
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Tuesday, December 16th, 2014 AT 3:53 PM
Tiny
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It is pretty well explained what I have done or doing
does the block have intergraded circuits in the block casing that can not be split apart or are they all isolated from 1 pin to the next
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Tuesday, December 16th, 2014 AT 4:03 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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You can't really determine anything that way. Many of those circuits feed other circuits and relays within the block.
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Tuesday, December 16th, 2014 AT 5:16 PM
Tiny
WIRENUT2002
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If the block is bad and back feeding should that not cause the short of my switches or as per say + to - or + to no -
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Tuesday, December 16th, 2014 AT 5:24 PM

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