1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Car Dies on idle

Tiny
KKSPENCER22
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 240,000 MILES
I have a 99 mitsubishi eclipse spyder gs. Head been repaired by a repair shop due to a timing belt issue. Well I worked on it and replaced the starter, spark plugs. Then we got it to run, but idles really rough, then pressing the gas it will go alittle, act like it is not getting anything to it, then goes back to idling rough, put it in drive or reverse will start hesitating and then dies. Pulls a Camshaft position code, But I have already changed the sensor, as well as the crankshaft sensor. It still doing this, I am out of options, and think it mite be a vacume leak or something.
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Monday, December 7th, 2015 AT 4:02 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Sounds like the belt timing may be off.
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Monday, December 7th, 2015 AT 4:08 PM
Tiny
KKSPENCER22
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How would that make it rough idling? And dies when put into park, or drive a little and then dies?
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Monday, December 7th, 2015 AT 6:07 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Incorrect valve timing can do all those things.
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Monday, December 7th, 2015 AT 6:09 PM
Tiny
KKSPENCER22
  • MEMBER
Do you have the correct valve timing for the 99 mitsubishi eclipse spyder gs? Also there is another thing. The coil (firing order)
1
4
2
3
[ 4 3 2 1]

This is how it is on the coil. Online at autozone manual it has it like this

1
4
3
2
[4 3 2 1]
Which one is right, one works, and the other dosn't. I think the autozone one work, why is that? Could it also be cheap spark plugs, I got the copper autolites, What does the car call for?
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Monday, December 7th, 2015 AT 8:39 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa448/Wrenchtech/78572134.jpg.gif

http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa448/Wrenchtech/78572139.jpg.gif

Installation Service Points

]A[ Auto Tensioner Installation.

Apply 98 - 196 N (22 - 44 lbs.) force to the push rod to the auto tensioner by pressing it against a metal (cylinder, block, etc.), and measure the movement of the push rod.

Standard value: Within 1 mm (0.04 inch)
A: Length when it is free (not pressed)
B: Length when it is pressed
A - B: Movement

If it is out of the standard value, replace the auto tensioner.
Use a press or vise to gently compress the auto tensioner push rod until pin hole A of the push rod and pin hole B of the tensioner cylinder are aligned.

CAUTION: If the compression speed is too fast, the rod may become damaged, so be sure to carry out this operation slowly.

Once the holes are aligned, insert the set pin.

NOTE: When replacing the auto tensioner with a new part, the pin will be in the auto tensioner.

Install the auto tensioner to the engine.

]B[ Timing Belt Installation.

Align the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket and oil pump sprocket.

After aligning the timing mark on the oil pump sprocket, remove the cylinder block plug and insert a Phillips screwdriver with a diameter of 8 mm (0.32 inch) , and check to be sure that the screwdriver goes in 60 mm (2.36 inch) or more. If the screwdriver will only go in 20 - 25 mm (0.79 - 0.98 inch) before striking the counterbalance shaft, turn the sprocket once, realign the timing mark and check that the screwdriver goes in 60 mm (2.36 inch) or more. Do not take out the screwdriver until the timing belt is installed.
Install the timing belt so as not to be loosened among the sprockets, by the following procedure.

CAUTION: If the timing belt is to be reused, install it so that the mark indicates the clockwise direction.

Set the tension pulley so that the pin holes are at the bottom, press the tension pulley lightly against the timing belt.

Screw the tool into the engine left support bracket until its end makes contact with the tensioner arm. At that point, screw the tool in some more and then remove the set wire attached to the auto tensioner.
Remove the tool.
Tighten the center bolt to the specified torque.

Specified torque: 48 Nm (35 ft. lbs.)

]C[ Timing Belt Tension Adjustment.

After turning the crankshaft 1/4 of a revolution counterclockwise, turn it clockwise until the timing marks are aligned.
Loosen the tension pulley fixing bolt, and then use the special tool and a torque wrench to tighten the fixing bolt to the specified torque while applying tension to the timing belt.

Standard value:
3.5 Nm (2.6 ft. lbs.)
[Timing belt tension torque]

CAUTION: When tightening the fixing bolt, do not let the tension pulley turn with the bolt.

Turn the crankshaft two revolutions clockwise so that the timing marks are aligned. After leaving it for 15 minutes, measure the amount of protrusion of the auto tensioner.

Standard value (A): 3.8 - 4.5 mm (0.150 - 0.177 inch)

If the amount of protrusion is outside the standard value, repeat the operation in steps (1) to (3).
Check again that the timing marks of each sprocket are aligned.

https://www.2carpros.com/images/external/92759566.jpg.gif
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Tuesday, December 8th, 2015 AT 2:10 AM
Tiny
KKSPENCER22
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Okay thank you with that, I will let you know when I do that if it works, but the firing order is different that what everything else had it as, For instant when looking at the vehicle, engine block, it back wards like [4 3 2 1] So could the firing order be way of, since you have it like [1 2 3 4]?
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Tuesday, December 8th, 2015 AT 6:28 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
The front (drive belt side) of the engine is ALWAYS #1.
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Tuesday, December 8th, 2015 AT 6:37 AM
Tiny
KKSPENCER22
  • MEMBER
I do not understand, the side where the belts are at, the cams is the starting of #1 cylinder?
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Tuesday, December 8th, 2015 AT 6:58 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
The front of the engine is #1
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Tuesday, December 8th, 2015 AT 7:11 AM
Tiny
KKSPENCER22
  • MEMBER
What is the front of the engine? I'm using right to left starting at one? I'm sorry for not understanding
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Tuesday, December 8th, 2015 AT 7:51 AM

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