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Barely idles and will not accelerate

Tiny
PGORDON0513
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD EXPLORER
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 310,000 MILES
Frustrated.

Two days ago I drove to the hardware store, parked and went in for roughly 15 minutes. Came out and proceeded to start my vehicle. It started fine but the idle is rougher than normal and sounds and feels like it’s running on 4 cylinders when I press the gas. #13 fuse under the hood is good. I have since replaced the Cam Position Sensor, 2-wire (re-wiring the connector, after I post this), Throttle Position Sensor, 2 of the O2 sensors, cleaned all the spark plugs (haven’t swapped those for new yet or ohmed out the coils yet). I did what I could to “clean” MAF and IAC.

I have not touched the EGR, EVAP system or upper intake gasket.

Also, it will not shift when driving and I was lucky to limp it at 10 MPH the local parts store.

Any and all info is appreciated.

It’s hot as heck here in Houston. Need this thing up and going.

Thanks.

Vehicle listed above is an Eddie Bauer Edition with an automatic transmission.
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Wednesday, June 9th, 2021 AT 11:26 AM

13 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Hi,

The first thing I would recommend is to have the computer scanned for diagnostic trouble codes. If you have already done this, let me know what codes were found.

Here is a quick video showing how it's done:

https://youtu.be/b2IJGfImVvw

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but oftentimes a parts store will lend one to you.

I recommend doing this because it could be a number of different things causing what you described. Once you get the codes, then we can focus on a specific problem. Otherwise, it becomes a guessing game.

Let me know.

Take care,

Joe
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Wednesday, June 9th, 2021 AT 9:26 PM
Tiny
PGORDON0513
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Did that the day before yesterday but I misplaced the printout. Finishing up wiring new temperature sensors in (the old ones had melted together) then I’m going to see if I can limp it back down there to scan again. Will post up the results of the scan.

Side note: There was a whole bunch the last time.

I appreciate the response.
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Thursday, June 10th, 2021 AT 10:07 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Hi,

If there are several, we will try to focus on the ones that tie together with the symptoms. Oftentimes, there is one problem that can set multiple codes.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe
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Thursday, June 10th, 2021 AT 6:59 PM
Tiny
PGORDON0513
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I sent a reply earlier today, twice and it still hasn’t gone through. Is there a limit on the size of the reply, with images attached? Weird. I’ll give it another shot, here in a few.
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Friday, June 11th, 2021 AT 9:18 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Hi,

I see the one related to the fuse. Is that fuse bad? As far as the codes, I didn't get them. To the best of my knowledge, there shouldn't be a size limit on the file.

Also, the fuse you indicated could have a lot to do with an idle issue and proper running. If the EGR or canister vent solenoid are stuck open, we could have a vacuum related issue. Also, the cam sensor is an issue.

Let me know.

Joe
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Friday, June 11th, 2021 AT 9:54 PM
Tiny
PGORDON0513
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Sorry for the delayed response. Single with two kids. Anyways, here we go. Codes from yesterday...

P0755
P0743
P1747
P0135
P0155
P1000
P1270
P0118

Codes that are “Green”
M, CC, F

Codes that are “Blinking Red”
C, EV, EG, O, OH

I am almost 90 something % positive it is a short in one or more of the circuits that piggyback off that fuse. And I had failed to mention in my initial post about that fuse blowing twice in the past, say couple months or so. But this last time she was acting as if it had blown again but that is not the case. My best guess is that we have a short at the first jump off point to the individual circuits. Just hoping it’s not the PCM. All the issues that came up are all directly tied to #13.

Again, I want to thank everyone in advance. Any and all info/input is and will be greatly appreciated.

Side note: I’m using the Zurich ZR4 scanner. Not to bad for what it is.

I look forward to hearing back from y’all.
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Friday, June 11th, 2021 AT 10:58 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Hi,

Wow, that is an interesting list. Everything from a coolant temperature sensor short to the speed limiter. Many of these codes are specific to a manual transmission.

Okay, here is where I would like to start: I want you to plug in the scan tool and go to live data. Check the engine coolant temperature sensor signal. It should identify a temperature and it should be close to ambient temperature if the vehicle hasn't been run, or engine temperature if it has been run. If that is shorted and indicating it is for example -40°F, the computer will be dumping fuel thinking it has to for it to run.

Let's go through this one thing at a time only because the codes are all over the place.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Saturday, June 12th, 2021 AT 7:04 PM
Tiny
PGORDON0513
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
My scanner doesn’t do live data. Bummer.
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Saturday, June 12th, 2021 AT 7:11 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
By any chance, can you get your hands on one?

Joe
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Saturday, June 12th, 2021 AT 8:51 PM
Tiny
PGORDON0513
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Possibly but can’t promise. Temperature sensor is good now.
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Saturday, June 12th, 2021 AT 9:52 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
I believe there are two sensors on this vehicle. One is for the gauge and the other for the PCM. If possible, check that. Also, if you can, let me know the short-term fuel trims. A live data scanner can provide that as well.

Let me know.

Take care and I'll watch for your reply.

Joe
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Sunday, June 13th, 2021 AT 5:32 PM
Tiny
PGORDON0513
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
No live Dara scanner. Don’t have the extra funds for one.
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Sunday, June 13th, 2021 AT 5:38 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
At this point, I'm not sure where to go without having more info. Because there are so many codes that are different, it may be a good idea to check the connection at PCM. Something could be corroded or loose. Is that something you have checked? If you haven't, it may be a good idea. Just make sure the battery is disconnected before you connect or disconnect the PCM.

Let me know if you find anything.

Joe
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Monday, June 14th, 2021 AT 7:19 PM

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