Positive charge cable in battery replacement?

Tiny
IAMESPINOZA
  • MEMBER
  • 2015 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 85,000 MILES
My “check charge system” light was on. Took it to the dealership, and they told me the wires that hook onto the battery had some collision damage. I bought the car used so I am guessing the previous owners had an incident. I just want to know how much it cost me to repair/replace that wire. And what are some issues that may cause in the future if I do not fix it. Thanks.
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Sunday, December 9th, 2018 AT 12:01 AM

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Tiny
DANNY L
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Hello, I am Danny,

I will start by saying the the average shop labor rate is around $100.00 an hour. Dealerships charge more. Issues that could arise in the future are a sluggish engine cranking and possibly a battery drain due to the battery not being fully charged by the Alternator. I have attached a tutorial showing how the electrical system works for you to view.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-car-electrical-system-works

Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Sunday, December 9th, 2018 AT 3:46 PM
Tiny
IAMESPINOZA
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Thanks Danny. One more question, how much would the new part cost?
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Sunday, December 9th, 2018 AT 11:04 PM
Tiny
DANNY L
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,648 POSTS
Hello again,

Depending where the parts are being purchased (local auto parts store, Honda dealer) I could not see it being more than $50.00. Hope this helps and thanks again for using 2CarPros.

Danny-
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Sunday, December 9th, 2018 AT 11:45 PM
Tiny
MSTKEYS
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2012 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 63,500 MILES
I purchased my 1st car in June 2015 with 62,000/miles and it had the original battery still. I had to replace the battery and didn't want to have to worry about having to worry about replacing it anytime soon so I opted to spend the extra money and bought a yellow top Optima battery. I was told it was a 'simple' install and that it would be a DIY project I could do myself which is what I tried to do. Unfortunately I was mislead and my car has been out of commission because the existing positive cable is too short and can't reach the post on the battery no matter how we've tried to maneuver the battery (not enough room to turn the battery to make it work). I've been researching like crazy via the internet hoping to find a simple fix that I (or a family member) would be able to do to get the car running again but I haven't found definitive fix so I am desperately seeking your advice and help. At this point it doesn't have to be a perfect fix, if I can get it connected in a way that is safe for me to drive the car 2 or 3 weeks would be great. I have a limited monthly income and I won't have the money to have it fixed professionally until next month.

The first image shows the maximum length the positive cable stretches. The red 'boot' cover that is supposed to be over terminal was broken prior to me buying the car and I haven't been able to find a replacement one that will fit.
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,689 POSTS
You're better off returning this battery and getting the right one. You still have to worry about the battery's posts hitting the bottom of the hood when they're in the wrong place too.

When it comes to how long a battery will last, they all fail eventually because the lead flakes off the plates and collects at the bottom. As that occurs over the next few years, it will still be able to start the engine, but it will not be able to run your radio, for example, as many hours as when it was new, before it is run dead. The manufacturers know how quickly that lead is going to flake off, and they provide the longest warranty they can based on that. When enough of that lead builds up at the bottom of a cell, it shorts the plates together, then the battery has to be replaced. Most commonly that occurs in about five years but a lot of batteries do last longer than that.

You also have to look at the cold cranking amps, (CCA) of a replacement battery. All that's important is the new one has the same or higher rating than the original battery. It's almost impossible to find one the same as the original. All replacement batteries are much better in that regard. A higher CCA rating is needed for cranking larger engines but when used in a small car, you just have a lot of extra potential power that will never get used. If the engine is running properly and the starter and cables are in good shape, you'll never notice that the battery has more power than is needed. Where the higher CCA rating has benefits is for those of us who live where it gets real cold in winter. Below zero degrees, since a battery is a chemical reaction, they lose about half of their power. Also, due to the engine oil becoming real thick, it takes about twice as much power as normal to crank the engine on a cold day. The battery is half as strong and the engine needs double the power. The manufacturer chose the original battery to meet those conditions, but with no extra to spare. Any new battery you find is going to have considerable extra power to spare.

Other than that cold weather, there's no substantial benefit in buying a larger battery. It's still going to fail, on average, in five years. To say that a different way, suppose you had an ice cube and you placed in a hot sidewalk in summer, and suppose it melted in five minutes. Now suppose you had two ice cubes and you did the same thing. They still would both be melted in five minutes. Having twice as much doesn't make it last longer. Twice as much just melts twice as fast. The same is true with all that extra power in the battery.

When there is a real improvement developed, it isn't long before every other manufacturer adopts them and incorporates them into their products. As a result, you might get a really good battery from an auto parts store one time and one that fails under warranty and the exact opposite might occur for the next person.
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MSTKEYS
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Thanks for the quick response and your help. I really do appreciate it.

First, online in every store I checked to make sure this battery is compatible with my car (full info/specs put in) and it would fit. I even used the live chat feature on 3 different sites and they assured me it would fit without any problems and without me having to purchase any additional items. The battery did come with an adapter tray plus some other plastic parts to adapt this battery to whatever vehicle you may have and it also came with the instructions on how to install/use them. The picture is with the adapter tray on because the battery is shorter compared to the original battery and I'm sure if I checked the hood/post clearance after removing the tray there wouldn't be an issue with height. Although I'm fairly certain it would be clear as is. I did compare the old battery ratings/size/post locations to the new ones during my battery shopping and this battery has a higher CCA (along with every other rating). But nevertheless, the Optima will be either returned or sold.

I live in south Mississippi and the past few years we've had unusually cold winters (freezing temps/snow/ice) and hotter than normal summers (110 degrees plus with humidity/heat index). I have to park in our yard, on the grass and uncovered, (a minimum) 75% of the time. I read countless positive reviews about this battery when it came to being reliable for others who parked outside/uncovered, didn't drive their vehicle regularly and experienced both the cold and hot temps. That all influenced my purchase decision, my car can end up sitting for week or longer (due to health).

I added that information in hopes that you would suggest/advise about either a specific battery or what CCA, group size (series number), reserve capacity, terminal replacement (if they look like they need replacing), corrosion protection & if the 'boot' for the positive cable is something I need to replace ASAP?
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MSTKEYS
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Oh and in the sentence:. Did compare the old battery ratings/size/post locations. By 'post locations' I only mean whether or not they're on the top or side of the battery, not where on the top they actually are because I didn't realize it was important to take that into consideration.
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • MECHANIC
  • 33,689 POSTS
A while back some manufacturers were making their batteries with the posts right in the middle so they would work for most car or you could turn them around for use in Fords. We ran into the same problems with cables being too short on about half of the cars we tried to put them in. The easiest fix was to just get the right battery.

Those adapters you mentioned are needed because every car manufacturer feels their design is somehow better than all the others, so there's no standardization. By designing a replacement battery that will fit in the smallest application, an adapter can be used to make it work where the old battery was physically larger.

If I left you with the impression your battery was a bad choice, I shouldn't have done that. What I should have discussed was to not listen to propaganda in advertising. When you pay extra for a battery, you want to be paying for more power, more quality, or a longer warranty, and that doesn't necessarily mean a name brand battery. There's two things I think about when buying a battery. The first is all major battery manufacturers build batteries to fit all car applications without the need for adapters. That means dozens of different shapes and sizes. If a manufacturer only has a few sizes in their inventory and those are supposed to adapt to any car, they're keeping their costs down by just making a few models, and that should translate into a lower cost battery compared to their competitors' products. The second thing is weight. You won't work up a sweat carrying in your original battery for trade-in, but you may need two men and a boy to carry out your new battery. That higher weight means there's more lead in the battery, and that is where the electrical power is stored. That also means increased cost to produce it.

Don't overthink your new battery choice. If a battery manufacturer made only low-quality products, they'd have that reputation and no one would buy their products. They'd be out-of-business. You're always going to find someone who had a bad experience with a certain brand, but the next dozen people will have real good luck. As I mentioned before, any replacement battery will have more reserve power than your original battery, and they all will have at least a five-year warranty.
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NEIL2002CIVIC
  • MEMBER
  • 111 POSTS
  • 2010 HONDA ACCORD
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 40,000 MILES
Hi, I bought a new battery recently and the other day I noticed it was loose so I checked with my local mechanic he said he would have to change the terminal head. I questioned him if there was something made to go over the terminal I was told no and if they did it would effect the resistance. I also thought it would be better to change the cable rather the cut all the wires etc, talk about a resistance problem. So I went back to Advance Auto Parts and ask about a battery exchange they told me no and kindly sold me the lead battery posts shims worked like a charm. My question is, is this fix okay? I put terminal protect ant on the outside the suggested dielectric grease I didn't do it should i? The fit was good with the shims have you run across this before. The sales person said some batteries come that way now never heard that before Is this a permanent fix or do I have to fight for another battery? The cable was fine on the old battery it's a group 35 if that helps. Thanks, Neil
Have a great day!
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Welcome to 2CarPros.

It sounds like you took care of it, and yes, that will work. Like you, I would have rather seen the cable replaced, but this too will work.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SCGRANTURISMO
  • MECHANIC
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Hello,

As long as the shims are held in place nice and tight then should be okay. Dielectric grease would be a good idea though. It will help conduct the electricity and prevent corrosion from getting on the terminals. Please get back to us with what you are able to find out.

Thanks,
Alex
2CarPros
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NEIL2002CIVIC
  • MEMBER
  • 111 POSTS
Hi, thank you both for the quick response. The cable is tight now and plenty of room to re-tighten if needed. So I should put some dielectric grease under the shim before putting over the post? Have you seem or heard they are making + terminal posts smaller on some batteries.
Thanks, Neil
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 107,920 POSTS
Welcome back:

The grease is a good idea. As far as smaller terminals, if they can save a buck, they will. LOL

Take care and let me know if you have other questions.

Joe
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NEIL2002CIVIC
  • MEMBER
  • 111 POSTS
Thanks Joe! You are right cut corners anywhere they can lol. I guess I was more pissed my mechanic said they didn't make shims like that and wanted to cut the cable maybe he thought he was saving me money terminal head vs complete cable. I remember in the mid 1970's GM/Chevrolet on the small block V8 with a 2 barrel they went to 2 hold down bolts instead of 4. It saved them 8 cents a car X how many cars sold the money number was ridiculous. Thanks again and have great day or night depending where you are.

Neil
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Neil:

That's an interesting fact. I know Ford could have fixed the Pinto for around 12 dollars a car. The rational behind that decision is ludicrous.

You take care too and let us know if we can help in the future.

Joe
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DBOLTT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2007 HONDA ACCORD
My battery is leaking acid and the positive battery cable needs to be replaced because of it. Is this a labor intensive repair and how much should it cost?
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
No you can do it-just follow the positive cable to the starter motor-1st remove negative cable and the positive cable at battery and then at starter motor.
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:31 AM (Merged)
Tiny
NC98HONDAACCORD
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 HONDA ACCORD
  • 150,000 MILES
Hello, the car I am dealing with is a 1998 Honda Accord LX 4 cyl Automatic. About two months ago the battery died on me. I replaced the battery with a mid-grade (not the cheapest, but not the most expensive) battery from Advance Auto Parts. The ground cable, from the ground post on the battery, to two grounds under the hood, was corroded so I replaced it as well. The aftermarket ground cable only had one place for me to bolt it to a ground, as to the factory cable that was grounded at two locations. Once I installed the battery, the car would do things such as A) thermometer gauge would jump around anytime I turned on headlights, rolled windows down/up, turned on high beam headlights B) when I would press brakes or turn highbeams on, all gauges would drop to 0. Radio would lose power and then turn back on. C) If I would hit a bump in the road it would lose power, gauges go to 0, radio lose power and restart. The other day I went to leave work, and hit a bump in the road. The car lost power, and cut off. I coasted to a parking lot and tried to restart the car. It will start, but cuts off immediately. Once it starts, if I press the gas pedal it doesn't rev up. It dies. It won't idle either. I've also noticed when I turn the ignition on there is some clicking that sounds like it's coming from the transmission gear shifter, in the center console. I towed it to my house today, and when I put it on the trailer tried to roll the windows down. They won't roll down now either. I have replaced the main relay, but that didn't change anything. I'm stuck and not sure what to do now. Any suggestions?They are all greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HONDATECH739
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Hello nc98hondaaccord. Sorry to hear you're having trouble with this. My first suggestion would be that you try adding a ground cable to the ground point that was left "orphaned" when you put the new ground cable in. If it was a ground to the engine block or head, that could explain why you are having so many problems. Also check the ground point that you did connect to, make sure it is clean of corrosion AND paint. A bad or partial ground can cause lots of problems. Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)
Tiny
YUNQUEKABAL
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1988 HONDA ACCORD
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 154,000 MILES
Hi,
I'm trying to change the positive battery cable in my car but I've ran into a couple issues. My old battery cable used to run from the starter and from the fuse box to the positive battery post, but the new battery cable that was sold to me by autozone only runs from the starter to the positive battery post. Now they told me I should be fine, but when I follow the basic instructions, things don't add up. So I attached the positive battery cable to the starter first, then attached the connector to the post. So far no issues. Then I proceed to place the negative battery cable onto the negative post, just as usual, and then it sparks. If I decide to keep it on there the starter will attempt to turn over. Now the keys are NOT in the ignition when this happens. If I keep the negative connector on the negative post, then the post's lead melts. Now I know that the car is not supposed to turn over when the keys aren't in the ignition. What in the world am I doing wrong?
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Thursday, December 31st, 2020 AT 10:32 AM (Merged)

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