Sorry I can't remember exactly but I think you'll need a 21mm or 24mm socket. You can use an impact on them. Be sure to support the car with jack stands under the frame or cross member, not under the lower control arms. You have to be able to pry the control arms down. Be aware that "camber", a very important alignment angle, was not adjustable with your old struts unless the lower mounting hole was ground oval-shaped. The lower hole in your new strut will likely already have an oval-shaped hole. It will be absolutely, positively impossible to set them in the correct position without an alignment. Changing camber will also cause a big change in "toe" on each wheel. That is the direction each wheel is steering. When that changes you will notice your steering wheel is no longer centered. The alignment will take care of that.
Don't use any type of anti-seize compound on the lower bolts or strut-to-knuckle contact points. That will prevent the bolts from holding the strut in proper position because it will defeat the friction from the clamping action.
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Monday, April 11th, 2011 AT 6:19 PM