The starter keeps trying to start.
Oct 11, 2014 at 1:51 PM
1998 Chevrolet Cavalier starter
1998 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
STEVE28313
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That's an awful lot of information to digest, but I still need more. Can I assume you have to disconnect a battery cable to stop the starter from cranking the engine? If so, remove the starter relay, then see what happens. If the cranking stops, suspect the ignition switch. If it still cranks, disconnect the smaller solenoid wire from the starter. If it still cranks, the solenoid is stuck due to worn and arced contacts or the drive gear is preventing the solenoid from releasing.
If this started right after the starter was replaced, check if the smaller solenoid wire on the starter is touching the braided fat wire going from the solenoid into the starter motor.
If this started right after the starter was replaced, check if the smaller solenoid wire on the starter is touching the braided fat wire going from the solenoid into the starter motor.
Oct 11, 2014 at 9:44 PM
Yes i have to disconnect battery to stop it. And where do i connect the five wires that go to starter? I had to buy new starter the old one had the small stud wiggling. Thanks for your help on the matter.
Oct 12, 2014 at 7:10 AM
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Where is starter relay located? Also i have a sensor plug that not sure where it went it has the ped 34 written on it its in front of alternator color blue.
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Oct 12, 2014 at 8:20 AM
Doesn't hurt anything if the smaller solenoid stud is loose, but to prevent the vibration from work-hardening the wires inside and causing them to break, all you have to do is tighten the nut on that stud.
GM likes to use the larger battery terminal on the starter as a convenient tie point for other circuits. They don't have anything to do with the starter itself. It's just easier to connect them there than run them all the way back to the battery or fuse box.
There will only be one wire bolted to the smaller "solenoid" terminal. Where the confusion comes in is if there's a second smaller terminal on the starter solenoid. That one gets 12 volts switched onto it only during cranking, but the circuits it feeds also get 12 volts from a different source once the engine is running. I can see how mixing those up could cause the starter to continue running. If you don't have that second smaller terminal, all you have to do is put the single smaller wire on the smaller stud, and the large battery cable and any other wires with a large terminal on the large stud on the solenoid.
If you have two smaller studs on the solenoid, one will be marked "S" for "solenoid" and one will be marked "R" for "relay". The solenoid wire is typically dark brown and is fatter than the other small wires. It usually has a black plastic part molded over the terminal and is about a half inch long. That wire goes on the "S", solenoid terminal. Now connect the battery cable. If the starter starts cranking, disconnect that brown solenoid wire, then see what happens when you reconnect the battery cable. If it doesn't start cranking on its own, try it with the ignition switch. For that to work, any small wires with real large terminals will have to be connected too to that larger stud.
Once you have it cranking properly from the ignition switch, connect the remaining wires to the "R" stud if there is one.
GM likes to use the larger battery terminal on the starter as a convenient tie point for other circuits. They don't have anything to do with the starter itself. It's just easier to connect them there than run them all the way back to the battery or fuse box.
There will only be one wire bolted to the smaller "solenoid" terminal. Where the confusion comes in is if there's a second smaller terminal on the starter solenoid. That one gets 12 volts switched onto it only during cranking, but the circuits it feeds also get 12 volts from a different source once the engine is running. I can see how mixing those up could cause the starter to continue running. If you don't have that second smaller terminal, all you have to do is put the single smaller wire on the smaller stud, and the large battery cable and any other wires with a large terminal on the large stud on the solenoid.
If you have two smaller studs on the solenoid, one will be marked "S" for "solenoid" and one will be marked "R" for "relay". The solenoid wire is typically dark brown and is fatter than the other small wires. It usually has a black plastic part molded over the terminal and is about a half inch long. That wire goes on the "S", solenoid terminal. Now connect the battery cable. If the starter starts cranking, disconnect that brown solenoid wire, then see what happens when you reconnect the battery cable. If it doesn't start cranking on its own, try it with the ignition switch. For that to work, any small wires with real large terminals will have to be connected too to that larger stud.
Once you have it cranking properly from the ignition switch, connect the remaining wires to the "R" stud if there is one.
Oct 12, 2014 at 11:26 PM
The starter relay will be in the fuse box under the hood. Not sure which plug you're referring to. There can be unused plugs for things that aren't included on your car, but the best bet is to get a copy of the manufacturer's service manual. That will show the wiring harnesses and where the plugs go to.
Oct 12, 2014 at 11:31 PM
Thanksfor all your help i got the car running with no problems. What i had did wrong was that i had the ground wire connected with the s stud causing a completed circuit. Thanks again.
Oct 13, 2014 at 3:05 AM
Dandy. Happy to hear it's solved.
Oct 13, 2014 at 5:11 PM