97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 Serpentine Belt

Tiny
JEEPDOOD97
  • MEMBER
  • 1997 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 96,600 MILES
I have a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 4.0 in it. (Has AC)I need to change out the Serpentine Belt. It does not have a spring loaded tensioner pulley.

The sticker on the radiator housing shows the tension release being a small pulley under the water pump if I am looking at it correctly.

How do I replace my Serpentine Belt with this set up. Every thing I look people talk about a spring loaded Tensioner.

Thanks JeepDude
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Friday, December 31st, 2010 AT 12:33 AM

15 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
That pulley can travel in a groove. Loosen the center nut one turn, then thread out the adjusting screw behind it and the pulley will move in. Reverse the procedure to tighten.

https://www.2carpros.com/images/external/62417289.gif
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Friday, December 31st, 2010 AT 1:01 AM
Tiny
JEEPDOOD97
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Sorry, I said water pump but meant to say Power steering pump. So is the drawing above still correct. When you say loosen the Center Nut one turn - which nut are you speaking of / The nut in the center of that small pulley? (The one in the drawing that is near where it says Pump Bracket) when I looked at mine it looks like there is a bolt on the top side part of the bracket. In your drawing if you follow that groove where that small pulley in in the bottom drawing you can see the bolt head. Looks like it can be turned to do something.
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Friday, December 31st, 2010 AT 7:05 AM
Tiny
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Another picture
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Friday, December 31st, 2010 AT 7:07 AM
Tiny
JEEPDOOD97
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Once I get the old belt off, the new on.
How do I get the tension back on the belt and know its enough?

Thanks for your replies.
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Friday, December 31st, 2010 AT 7:10 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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The proper tension is hard to explain. Feel the tension on the old one before removing it.
The bolt you hard circled is the adjusting bolt. You have to loosen the center bolt in the pulley first.
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Friday, December 31st, 2010 AT 12:02 PM
Tiny
JEEPDOOD97
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Thanks Wrenchtech, just a note to say thanks for your advice. I got Serpentine belt replaced with no major issues and all is well now.

One more question. Can you tell me what is involved in replacing a rear main seal for my jeep? Would the tranny have to be dropped, just the oil pan and so on. Dont need step by step how to do just wondering how involved it is and how long it might take a person if they decide to do it. Thanks
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Thursday, January 6th, 2011 AT 4:24 PM
Tiny
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The transmission would have to come out and since that is 4WD, that could be extensive.
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Thursday, January 6th, 2011 AT 4:34 PM
Tiny
JEEPDOOD97
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Thanks guy. Appreciate it. The dealership wants 386. And some change to do it, said its about a 5/6 hr. Job but didnt say what all was involved. My brother is a mechanic and said he thought he could just move the tranny back. But said he wasnt sure until he looked at it, he thought I could just drop the oil pan but again wasnt sure since not looking at it. He did say he hasnt seen a jeep that doesnt leak a little from the rear seal and that if it was just a drop here and there to not mess with it right now. Me I am more anal about things. Figure it didnt leak new so dont want it to leak now.
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Thursday, January 6th, 2011 AT 5:21 PM
Tiny
JEEPDOOD97
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As it looks now 14 yrs old
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Thursday, January 6th, 2011 AT 5:23 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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Sliding the trans back enough to access the seal or drop it all the way to the ground. No difference. You have no only a transmission but a transfer case too for the 4WD so it probably weighs 400lbs with all the weight to one side. The charge is nearly all labor. The seal is probably under $10
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Thursday, January 6th, 2011 AT 6:22 PM
Tiny
JEEPDOOD97
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Hey Wrenchtech,
I decided to go up to the dealership to see what they were going to do. He gave me a print out of what they would be doing. The guy said they would not have to drop the transmission since the seal for my jeep is two pieces, said they would have to replace the rear main seal and also the oil pan gasket. Besides dropping the oil pan he said something about removing the transmission inspection cover . Then something about the flywheel or converter drive plate.

He also said these jeeps will sometimes drip here and there from time to time then stop. Said ifs its a drip here and there not to fool with it right now unless it was bothering me. If it was a steady drip or worse then get it fix.
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Friday, January 7th, 2011 AT 12:01 AM
Tiny
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I stand corrected. I didn't think that they were still using 2 piece seals but that makes things a lot easier
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Friday, January 7th, 2011 AT 12:06 AM
Tiny
JEEPDOOD97
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The spot on the ground is where it has leaked. Only started leaking when it got cold. Didnt leak all spring or summer not sure if that has anything to do with it. The other pic. Is taken from directly under the jeep where it drips. Does seem like a lot but enough to irritate a person. Dont like leaks or noises. Have a good one.
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Friday, January 7th, 2011 AT 12:07 AM
Tiny
JEEPDOOD97
  • MEMBER
Wasnt trying to say you were wrong guy. Just repeating what the guy told me. I did look up the rear main seal on O'Riellys Auto parts website and it does only show a two piece rubber seal by Fel-Pro. And two different types or name brands for the oil pan gasket. Fel Pro and Spectra or something like that. Both seals were less than 40.00 so like you said seems most of the cost is in labor.
Thanks again for your input and assistance its greatly appreciated.
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Friday, January 7th, 2011 AT 12:24 AM
Tiny
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You're welcome
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Friday, January 7th, 2011 AT 12:26 AM

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