My car died while I was driving. I tried to jump it and it wouldn't start. I changed the alternator and fuel pump, but it still isn't working.
-97 Chrysler LHS.
-Changed the alternator and Fuel Pump.
-Changed Fuel Pump Relay.
-Fuel Pump doesn't turn on.
-All the interior lights works though.
-The "check engine" light turned on a couple weeks prior to my car dying.
You need to find out what is missing causing the non starting. If possible, retrieve the trouble code and let us know what it is.
October, 8, 2012 AT 8:42 PM
How would I retrieve the trouble code doing it myself? Thanks.
October, 8, 2012 AT 9:19 PM
You would need a scan tool for that. Most parts stores provides it but if you can't get the car there, you would have to go through the link to find out what is missing.
October, 9, 2012 AT 12:15 AM
Hi guys. Chrysler makes reading the codes easier than anyone else. Cycle the ignition switch from "off" to "run" three times within five seconds without ever cranking the engine, then read the codes that show up in the odometer display.
October, 9, 2012 AT 1:33 AM
Hey Caradiodoc my 97 Chrysler LHS doesn't have an electronic display on the odometer, so will it still show the codes? And KHLow2008 yeah my cars in the middle of nowhere so I would have to buy a code reader and test it. And what do you mean "go through the link"? Thanks.
October, 9, 2012 AT 5:01 AM
You don't have a digital odometer readout? Every car sold in the U.S. Went to "on-board diagnostics, version 2, (OBD2) starting with 1996 models and that includes three-digit codes, hence the need to display them a different way. On '95 and older model Chrysler products you still cycle the ignition switch three times but then after a few seconds the Check Engine light will turn off, then start blinking the two-digit codes. You count the number of flashes, wait for a short pause, then count the second number of flashes to get the second digit of that first code. After a longer pause the next code will flash the same way. The last code will always be "55" which just means it's done. If you miscounted, just cycle the ignition switch off and back on once and it will repeat the sequence. Cranking the engine will get it out of that test mode.
Looking back at your original post, you're replacing parts all over the place. There was at least one diagnostic fault code stored in the Engine Computer when the Check Engine light turned on a few weeks ago. If you disconnected the battery when you replaced the alternator, that memory was erased and the valuable information was lost. The alternator itself could have been responsible for the light turning on. Worn brushes are real common and cheap to fix. They will cause intermittent loss of charging often for weeks or months before they fail completely. You would have seen the volts gauge on the dash going down. The fault code would have been "alternator field circuit not switching properly". The voltage regulator is inside the Engine Computer and current through it coming from the alternator is monitored. It turns the Check Engine light on because anything that might adversely affect emissions must turn that light on. Low system voltage affects the fuel pressure, injector opening, and spark voltage, any of which can increase emissions.
How are you checking the fuel pump? It should only run for one second after turning on the ignition switch, then it turns on again during engine rotation, (cranking or running). A lot of people get hung up on the first thing they find not working, meaning fuel pump, but you have to look for anything else that is also dead, in this case, spark. If that's missing there's no use looking at the fuel pump.
October, 9, 2012 AT 6:16 AM
Thanks caradiodoc. I'll go ahead and try what you recommend and let you know when I get something.
October, 9, 2012 AT 8:53 AM
The link is in the first reply I sent. Click the highlighted link to go to where it will explain what to look for.