We just bought a 1996 chrysler cirrus from my aunt and she said her bf had been driving the car and he let it sit for a few weeks while driving another car and when he went to start it one morning the car wouldnt start. It would crank but not start. My bf changed the distributor cap and a few other things. But it still wont get a spark please help us
Grab a test light or voltmeter and measure the voltage on the dark green / orange wire at one of the injectors. You might need a stretched out paper clip to back-probe next to the wire. You should find 12 volts there for one second after turning on the ignition switch, then it should come back during engine cranking. Holler back with what you find.
February, 13, 2011 AT 3:12 PM
I did all that and the fuel is working. I took the distributor out and cleaned it. Im getting no reading from the drk green/orange striped wire to the distributor and im getting no pulse reading from the coil drive wire to the 6 prong connector to the distributor
February, 13, 2011 AT 10:29 PM
Just so I'm clear, you found 0 volts on the dark green / orange wire while a helper was cranking the engine, right? If that's the case, most likely the crankshaft position sensor is not working or the camshaft position sensor in the distributor is not working.
February, 14, 2011 AT 3:32 AM
Yes o reading from green and orange wire and im also not getting a reading from the coil drive wire I traced the wires to the computer and test to see if there a reading off the computer and got 0 reading Is there suppose to be a reading from the computer? I also have put a new crank pos sensor on the car I read the manual and it says the suppose to be a 2 sec pulse on the green/orange wire is that right? I have had people tell me it could be the timing or the distributor or computer need help
February, 14, 2011 AT 6:03 AM
Let's back up a minute. Put your voltmeter back on that dark green / orange wire. Watch it while a helper turns on the ignition switch. If you see around 12 volts for just one second when the switch is turned on, that circuit is working.
Next, that voltage must come back during engine cranking. When the engine is rotating, (cranking or running), the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor send pulses to the Engine Computer. The computer turns on the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay. That's the relay that sends the 12 volts to the dark green / orange wires to the injectors and coil in the distributor. If that voltage stays a steady 12 volts during engine cranking there's no need to look at those two sensors.
Did you install a new or used crank sensor? New ones will have a thick paper spacer stuck to the end to set the critical air gap or there will be a thin plastic rib molded to the end of it. When you install a used sensor you are supposed to cut off any remaining rib if there is one, then use a new paper spacer.
February, 14, 2011 AT 11:30 PM
Im not getting a reading on the orange/dark green wire and I installed a new crank sensor
February, 15, 2011 AT 12:22 AM
My first reaction when I see 0 volts is my probe isn't making good contact. To double-check, unplug something so you can touch the meter probe right to the terminal without having to back-probe the connector. If you don't see 12 volts there for that one second after a helper turns on the ignition switch, that would rule out the sensors.
If there is indeed no voltage ever on that wire, first check fuse 5, a 20 amp. Next, swap the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay with a different one like it. If there's still no voltage for that first second, bypass the ASD relay, then measure the voltage again. You can bypass the relay by using a jumper wire or stretched out paper clip between terminals 30 and 87 in the left diagram below. You can also pop the cover off the relay, reinstall it that way and squeeze the contact. Also watch that relay to see if the contact moves for one second after your helper turns on the ignition switch.
February, 15, 2011 AT 9:58 PM
I did what u said and im getting a voltage reading for a second when turning the key to the on position of 12 volts but when I turn the key to crank the car im getting a 0 reading.
February, 15, 2011 AT 11:20 PM
Dandy. That means the signal is missing from the new crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor inside the distributor. Was there a thick paper spacer on the end of the new crank sensor, or did it have a thin plastic rib molded onto the end? Those are to set the critical air gap. If you didn't have a spacer on the end, the sensor could hit the flex plate and be broken.
February, 15, 2011 AT 11:48 PM
I put a brand new crank sensor in the car I double checked it today to make sure it wont broke its not the book says that the spacer needs to be against the plat and that what I set it to making sure is that right? If that right would it be cam shaft sensor?