My 1996 Chrysler Cirrus LX will crank but not start.

Tiny
CNTRYBOY8508
  • 1996 CHRYSLER CIRRUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 174,000 MILES

We just bought a 1996 chrysler cirrus from my aunt and she said her bf had been driving the car and he let it sit for a few weeks while driving another car and when he went to start it one morning the car wouldnt start. It would crank but not start. My bf changed the distributor cap and a few other things. But it still wont get a spark please help us

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Saturday, February 12th, 2011 AT 6:36 PM

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Tiny
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Grab a test light or voltmeter and measure the voltage on the dark green / orange wire at one of the injectors. You might need a stretched out paper clip to back-probe next to the wire. You should find 12 volts there for one second after turning on the ignition switch, then it should come back during engine cranking. Holler back with what you find.

Caradiodoc

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Saturday, February 12th, 2011 AT 8:08 PM
Tiny
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I did all that and the fuel is working. I took the distributor out and cleaned it. Im getting no reading from the drk green/orange striped wire to the distributor and im getting no pulse reading from the coil drive wire to the 6 prong connector to the distributor

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Sunday, February 13th, 2011 AT 3:12 PM
Tiny
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Just so I'm clear, you found 0 volts on the dark green / orange wire while a helper was cranking the engine, right? If that's the case, most likely the crankshaft position sensor is not working or the camshaft position sensor in the distributor is not working.

Caradiodoc

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Sunday, February 13th, 2011 AT 10:29 PM
Tiny
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Yes o reading from green and orange wire and im also not getting a reading from the coil drive wire I traced the wires to the computer and test to see if there a reading off the computer and got 0 reading Is there suppose to be a reading from the computer? I also have put a new crank pos sensor on the car I read the manual and it says the suppose to be a 2 sec pulse on the green/orange wire is that right? I have had people tell me it could be the timing or the distributor or computer need help

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Monday, February 14th, 2011 AT 3:32 AM
Tiny
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Let's back up a minute. Put your voltmeter back on that dark green / orange wire. Watch it while a helper turns on the ignition switch. If you see around 12 volts for just one second when the switch is turned on, that circuit is working.

Next, that voltage must come back during engine cranking. When the engine is rotating, (cranking or running), the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor send pulses to the Engine Computer. The computer turns on the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay. That's the relay that sends the 12 volts to the dark green / orange wires to the injectors and coil in the distributor. If that voltage stays a steady 12 volts during engine cranking there's no need to look at those two sensors.

Did you install a new or used crank sensor? New ones will have a thick paper spacer stuck to the end to set the critical air gap or there will be a thin plastic rib molded to the end of it. When you install a used sensor you are supposed to cut off any remaining rib if there is one, then use a new paper spacer.

Caradiodoc

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Monday, February 14th, 2011 AT 6:03 AM
Tiny
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Im not getting a reading on the orange/dark green wire and I installed a new crank sensor

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Monday, February 14th, 2011 AT 11:30 PM
Tiny
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My first reaction when I see 0 volts is my probe isn't making good contact. To double-check, unplug something so you can touch the meter probe right to the terminal without having to back-probe the connector. If you don't see 12 volts there for that one second after a helper turns on the ignition switch, that would rule out the sensors.

If there is indeed no voltage ever on that wire, first check fuse 5, a 20 amp. Next, swap the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay with a different one like it. If there's still no voltage for that first second, bypass the ASD relay, then measure the voltage again. You can bypass the relay by using a jumper wire or stretched out paper clip between terminals 30 and 87 in the left diagram below. You can also pop the cover off the relay, reinstall it that way and squeeze the contact. Also watch that relay to see if the contact moves for one second after your helper turns on the ignition switch.

Caradiodoc

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Tuesday, February 15th, 2011 AT 12:22 AM
Tiny
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I did what u said and im getting a voltage reading for a second when turning the key to the on position of 12 volts but when I turn the key to crank the car im getting a 0 reading.

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Tuesday, February 15th, 2011 AT 9:58 PM
Tiny
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Dandy. That means the signal is missing from the new crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor inside the distributor. Was there a thick paper spacer on the end of the new crank sensor, or did it have a thin plastic rib molded onto the end? Those are to set the critical air gap. If you didn't have a spacer on the end, the sensor could hit the flex plate and be broken.

Caradiodoc

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Tuesday, February 15th, 2011 AT 11:20 PM
Tiny
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I put a brand new crank sensor in the car I double checked it today to make sure it wont broke its not the book says that the spacer needs to be against the plat and that what I set it to making sure is that right? If that right would it be cam shaft sensor?

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Tuesday, February 15th, 2011 AT 11:48 PM
Tiny
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The cam sensor is a possibility. Have you checked for diagnostic fault codes? Do you know how to do that by cycling the ignition switch?

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Wednesday, February 16th, 2011 AT 12:51 AM
Tiny
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Ya I have already done that im not getting no codes the only ones I have got were 12 and 55

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Wednesday, February 16th, 2011 AT 3:09 AM
Tiny
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Measure the voltages on the distributor wires. The black / light blue must have very near 0 volts. The orange / white must have 8.0 volts. The black wire must have 0 volts. The dark green / orange wire must have battery voltage during cranking.

Next, switch the meter to the 20 volt AC scale to measure pulses. I've never checked these myself, but the tan / yellow should have somewhere around 4 volts. If that is present, the cam sensor is working. The black with gray should have something but it might be relatively low. An oscilloscope is really needed to view the waveforms accurately.

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Wednesday, February 16th, 2011 AT 4:06 AM
Tiny
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Ok iv checked this wires the wires going to the cam sensor are right they checked out but the green/orange has no voltage during cranking but has 12 volts for a sec when you turn the key on. Iv rechecked the computer codes and it only has 12- battery been disconnected and 55- end of code reading. What would cause the green/orange wire not to have voltage during cranking but get voltage during cranking?

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Wednesday, February 16th, 2011 AT 7:46 PM
Tiny
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I also have a wiring schematic for the car and is shoeing me the green/orange wire is coming from the generator it shows it goes to the injectors and I have voltage there and to the shut of relay but not to the distbutor

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Wednesday, February 16th, 2011 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
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Either the signal is missing from one of those sensors or the computer is not recognizing them. What you will need to do is find someone with a scanner that can read live sensor data. View the two sensors to see if they are listed as "no" or "present". The display will switch when you start cranking the engine.

The Chrysler DRB3 will also let you fire the ignition coil to verify that part of the distributor is working.

Caradiodoc

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Wednesday, February 16th, 2011 AT 8:21 PM
Tiny
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The green / orange wire is another feed to the alternator along with the distributor and the injectors. You will have voltage on all of those points at the same time. If you have voltage at the alternator during cranking, you have to have it at the distributor too. The only exception would be if the wire was broken between the splice and the distributor, but that can't be the case because then you wouldn't have voltage at the distributor for the first second. Since you do, we know that wire is good.

Caradiodoc

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Wednesday, February 16th, 2011 AT 8:27 PM
Tiny
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Ok I have voltage to the green/orange wire and I have a voltage reading from the coil but im still not getting nothing from the cap the car has a hard crank

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Thursday, February 17th, 2011 AT 9:01 PM
Tiny
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It's starting to sound like the distributor is the problem but to verify that, you need to have someone connect a scanner to see if one of the signals is missing from the cam or crank sensors. If both signals are present, the timing belt may have jumped a few teeth. If the timing is wrong, the computer will not turn on the ASD relay to prevent the engine from starting and to protect the valves. There should be a code then for "cam and crank sync".

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Thursday, February 17th, 2011 AT 9:18 PM
Tiny
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Ok I changed the distributor and it starts now but it reves up by itself so loud. Its like the throttle is too high. How do I fix that?

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Saturday, February 26th, 2011 AT 3:38 AM

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