ECTS or Other?

So when it doesn't start it's crank no start?If so have you checked for spark when it didn't start?Also I would check the coil tower's where the spark plug wire's go on see if any of those are corroded pretty common for that year and model saturn. Also have you inspected the spark plug's yet?I have seen bad plug's cause some wild thing's to happen. Did you replace the top ect with the single green wire or the bottom one with two wire's one black and the other yellow?Also the top sensor has a white end on the sensor and the bottom one has a brown end on it. Any current code's or past code's in memory?As far as the power steer leak if it leaks into the alternator it can short it out. Have you had the alternator tested and the battery tested if not I would do that. Also make sure the battery cable's are clean and tight.

Check for spark let me know what you find. Also check the other thing's I asked you to check. Another thing you can try to make it start if you haven't already is to hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor while you crank it to start it. Yes the bottom brown tipped one with the black wire and yellow wire is the correct one. Look at the inside of the connector where it snap's onto the sensor if it's green or blue replace the connector. If it's not leave it alone.I have never seen a bad pcv stop that engine from starting. AS far as the alternator if it got enough power steering fluid in it it could short out. That's why your going to have to test it when we get the engine running.I have had pretty good luck with aftermarket ect's but I have gotten bad new one's though. Also before you mess with the battery use the code retrival I posted for you to see if you have any code's it will even show you if you have history code's. Let me know what you find.

Yes I would check all four tower's for spark and for being corroded also inspect that coolant temp sensor connector if it's green or blue it's corroded and need's to be changed. Also for the no start we could be loosing fuel pressure. The code 12 is normal it should have that code. The code 34 is for the map sensor feed back voltage to the computer being too low. That could cause the no start etc stalling out all that. It can be caused by a bad sensor bad wiring bad pcm etc.I would check the feed back voltage when the car stall's out and won't start or just not starting at all. The problem is you will need a scan tool that read's obd 1 and will also read live data display on the obd 1 cars to diagnose it yourself without guessing. Here is the trouble tree for the code 34 let me know what you find.
MAP CIRCUIT - VOLTAGE OUT OF RANGE LOW
The manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor is a variable resistor that responds to changes in manifold pressure (vacuum). The PCM measure the voltage drop across the MAP sensor. The voltage ranges from 1-1.5 volts at idle (high vacuum) to 4-4.5 volts at wide-open throttle (low vacuum).

DTC PARAMETERS

DTC 34 will set if either:

* Engine speed is less than 1200 rpm.
* MAP is 0.2 volts or less.
* DTC 21 and 22 are not present. Or
* Engine speed is greater than 1200 rpm.
* MAP is 0.2 volts or less.
* TP sensor is greater than 15.2 present.
* DTC 21 and 22 are not present.

DIAGNOSTIC AIDS
When attempting to diagnose an intermittent problem use the Scan tool[1] to review supplemental diagnostic information. The supplemental data can be used to duplicate a problem.

Intermittents or opens suspected to be at the connector can be detected by using Diagnostic Service Probe. Voltage can be read on both wires without disconnecting any connectors.

With the engine Off and key On the map reading should be the same as to barometric because manifold pressure is equal to atmospheric pressure (no vacuum - high voltage). Comparing this reading to a known good vehicle with the same sensor is a good way to check accuracy of a suspect sensor. Readings should be within 0.4 volts.

[1] Select Malfunction History from Scan toot Engine Control (EC) menu.

Your welcome glad to hear to hear you have it fixed that's what were here for.

We need to start with the basic's first make sure your battery cable's are clean and tight. Then have your battery tested. Do you have a multimeter?Does the dash light's come on when you turn the key on?If so do they go out when you try to start the car?

When you say plunger and spring do you mean the evo steering solenoid?Was there a connector going to it. If so you installed the wrong power steering pump. You would have installed a non evo power steering pump where you had a evo power steering system. If that's the case get the correct power steering pump and install it. Im looking to see what thread nut you need for your starter I will let you know what size it is.

They should had asked you if you had evo steering or non evo steering when you asked for the pump. The solenoid change's the pressure to the rack and pion depending on the speed of the car.I honestly can't tell what will happen if you drive with the wrong pump.I have never put the wrong pump on that car. The least that will happen is your evo will be inop and it will set a code.I would put the correct pump back on as soon as you can. That's my best advice to you.

I really never noticed pressure building up in the Reservoir tank before.I would still put the correct power steering put back on. Www. Rockauto. Com has the pump with the evo solenoid for 76 plus shipping. Did you get the pump from auto zone?They only list the pump with and without Reservoir.

The return line only has a hose clamp on it because it only return's fluid to the Reservoir unlike the pressure line that feed's high pressure to the rack.

I miss spoke earlier and said that I never really noticed any pressure build up in the power steering reservoir. When I have topped off the reservoir's to add fluid change the pump flush the power steering fluid etc I have sometimes noticed a pop noise when removing the reservoir cap. Releasing the little of built up pressure inside it doesn't cause leak's though.I would install the correct pump and also if you think the return line is leaking try replacing the hose clamp with a good screw clamp instead of the spring wire type it came with from the factory. If it still leak's replace the return line.