1995 Honda Civic Vehicle starts and runs intermittently

Tiny
TERRYMFROMGV
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 325,000 MILES
The vehicle runs fine when it starts, according to whether or not the fuel pump activates. More prone to starting problems in the winter months(moisture?). FUEL PUMP ACTIVATES INTERMITTENTLY. Vehicle has new fuel pump, new PGM-FI relay, new ignition electrical switch assembly, new ECM(not aftermarket), fuse # 18 under dash OK, ECU fuse under hood OK, fuel pump ignites when I jump terminals #5 & #7 at the PGM-FI relay connector w/ ignition key in start position. Have performed fuel pump and PGKM-FI tests from Honda Civic Service Manual, 1995 1st edition, section 1, pages 11-127 thru 11-130. All tests are positive going thru the trouble shooting flow chart. Sometimes the vehicle will start w/ no problem what-so-ever.
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Sunday, December 7th, 2014 AT 3:00 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Those tests only matter if they are performed while the problem is present. They had a real lot of problems with that PGM-FI relay during those years.
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Sunday, December 7th, 2014 AT 3:46 PM
Tiny
TERRYMFROMGV
  • MEMBER
Are you suggesting that I try another known working PGM-FI relay?
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Sunday, December 7th, 2014 AT 3:54 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
You could but the point I was making is that you have to test while the problem is present.
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Sunday, December 7th, 2014 AT 3:57 PM
Tiny
TERRYMFROMGV
  • MEMBER
I apologize. As of this morning, PST, the vehicle would not start, so I did perform all the tests (again), that I mentioned in my first inquiry. All the tests implying that there is nothing wrong. That is why I am so puzzled.
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Sunday, December 7th, 2014 AT 4:05 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Try this series of tests.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Sunday, December 7th, 2014 AT 4:08 PM

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