Wow. We need to straighten out a bunch of stuff first.
When it doesn't turn over, the goal is to keep it that way so we can do some troubleshooting. If you get it to start, there's no defect to be found at that time. Next, be very specific on the symptoms and observations when it doesn't crank. Do you hear one single rather loud clunk from the starter each time you turn the ignition switch to "crank"? If you do, that is not related to the stalling problem. If you hear a very light click from the starter relay, or a rapid buzzing when you try to crank the engine, that could be due to discharged battery. Often enough electrons will migrate out of the plates over a few minutes to allow a short burst of cranking minutes later. You can also have a loose smaller positive battery cable where it bolts to the under-hood fuse box. That can kill the electrical power to the engine. Depending on the car model, you may also see the head lights are dim or won't turn on at all, then suddenly they come to life and the engine will crank fine and start.
"I replayed the fuel filter, pump, nothing"
Don't say "nothing" because that doesn't tell us what happened. Do you hear it run for one second after turning on the ignition switch? If so, it's working. You'll hear the hum. Next, except for diesel trucks, you will never solve a stalling problem on a Chrysler product by replacing the fuel filter. Unless they start leaking, they typically last the life of the car.
It's GM fuel pumps that often fail and cause stalling while you're driving. Chrysler pumps will fail to start up when they're going out but once they're running, they almost never quit while you're driving so you shouldn't even be wasting your time with the fuel supply system.
The battery can cause a failure to crank properly but it will rarely cause stalling. It is common to have worn brushes inside the alternator causing intermittent charging, but you would have seen the "Volts" gauge going down and the "battery" or "check gauges" light would turn on. You can do a quick test on the charging system by measuring the battery voltage. Engine off it will be 12.6 volts if it's fully-charged. It will read 12.2 volts if it's good but discharged. That's the time to suspect the alternator.
A carboned throttle body can cause idle speed or hesitation problems but not stalling while driving. They hardly ever cause a problem so don't waste your time with that.
Chrysler has less trouble with fuel injectors than probably any manufacturer in the world, and you know all four didn't fail at once. You can solve some running problems on GM products by running cleaners through them, but that won't solve a stalling problem either.
The automatic idle speed motor adjusts idle speed, that's all. In rare instances it can cause stalling as you pull up to a stop sign, but it isn't even in the picture when you have your foot on the gas pedal.
You didn't say this but "Took the battery to get it checked it passed" suggests you pulled it out of the car. Doing that erased any stored fault codes but along with all the new parts, it introduced a whole new bunch of variables that is going to complicate the diagnosis. To begin with, the Engine Computer lost its memory so among other things, it will not know "minimum throttle". It will not give you the nice idle flare-up to 1500 rpm when you start the engine, you will likely have to hold the gas pedal down 1/4" to get it to start and to keep it running, and it will likely stall when you slow down to a stop or shift into reverse. Don't go throwing a bunch more random parts at it for that. Meeting the conditions for the minimum throttle relearn to take place is terribly easy. You drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the pedals.
The throttle position sensor has about the least say in how much fuel goes into the engine and it will not cause a stalling-while-driving problem. It can cause a hesitation on acceleration but that defect would be detected by the Engine Computer, it would set a fault code, and turn on the Check Engine light.
You need a new friend. The camshaft timing is not the issue here, ... Most likely, but if it is, you checked it incorrectly. If the timing belt jumps one tooth, the Engine Computer will turn the Check Engine light on and the stored diagnostic fault code will be "cam and crank sync". At two teeth off the computer will shut the engine down to protect the valves. At that point the engine will not restart until the problem is fixed. Yours restarted and ran normally for a few minutes. Ask your friend how it could run normally if the timing belt had jumped? It's not going to magically jump back when it feels like it.
Where the problem comes in is you took the covers off and checked the relationship of the crankshaft sprocket to the camshaft sprocket(s). That is okay, but even though you found that to be correct, if you have the single cam engine, the valve timing can still be late and the computer will detect that and set the "cam and crank sync" code.
Torque converter? Come on. Chrysler was the first manufacturer to develop a torque converter that locked up at highway speeds to get better fuel mileage. That was in 1977. GM used to have a big problem with theirs failing to unlock when you slowed down, and that would cause stalling as you approached a stop sign. Chrysler never had that problem, but even if it did fail to unlock, you would never know that while you were at highway speed. Typically they lock up at anything over 45 miles per hour and in third or fourth gears. Even if something catastrophic broke inside the converter and it locked solid, the engine would still crank fine, then it would stall when you shifted to "Drive" or "reverse".
The most common cause of a stalling-while-driving problem is the camshaft position sensor. That, however, will not cause a failure to crank. Both of your problems can be related to a charging system problem and that's where I would start. Do not remove the alternator from the engine and cart it off to some auto parts store for testing. Professional load-testing needs to be done on the engine. You can do some preliminary tests with a digital voltmeter. With the engine running the battery voltage must be between 13.75 and 14.75 volts. If it is low, there are more tests we can do before assuming the alternator is defective.
Friday, February 8th, 2013 AT 1:21 AM