Now that its hot car is starting to stall

Tiny
JPINJPIN
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHEVROLET LUMINA
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,000 MILES
Its starting to get hot outside and if my car runs for more than 30 mins then is forced to idle for a while the car will sometimes surge or die but will start right back up.I thought it was the thermostat sticking because the temp gauge was always reading half way to the left and not in then middle when the car would get warm and would shoot up past half way if I was stopped for any longer than a min or so. I replaced it during winter and thought I fixed it but now summers here and im forced to use the ac but the ac starts to malfunction when I accelerate or if I use it extensively when it is working right and come to a stop the car goes silent and dies.I wont even know its dead till I hit the gas and look down and realize all the gauges are at zero. Also the car has two engine fans and I have noticed that the passenger side does not come on. The rpm speedometer was also sticking and fluctuating while the car would surge when I would accelerate but seems to have gone away with the recent oil change. I have also recently replaced the spark plugs, wires, battery, thermostat, pcv valve, evap control valve solenoid, fuel filter, air filter, gas treatment, added coolant, and check the refrigerant. To fix the stalling would I need to replace the air idle sensor or the engine coolant sensor or a combination of both. And any other ideas would help. Im just so fustrated.
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Wednesday, April 6th, 2011 AT 5:33 AM

14 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Go here for more info: http://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls
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Wednesday, April 6th, 2011 AT 5:50 AM
Tiny
JPINJPIN
  • MEMBER
Ive read thru that and at this point ive narrowed it down to idle air control sensor and engine coolant sensor. What would be a fair price to install if I bought the parts myself
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Wednesday, April 6th, 2011 AT 5:59 AM
Tiny
JPINJPIN
  • MEMBER
I mean I think ive narrowed it down.I have the repair manual but im not really any type of mechanic so it gets overwheliming
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Wednesday, April 6th, 2011 AT 6:00 AM
Tiny
JPINJPIN
  • MEMBER
Could it maybe be a bad a coil pack as well?
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Wednesday, April 6th, 2011 AT 6:26 AM
Tiny
CHEVYNOVA1988
  • MEMBER
Hi there. I used to have a 1992 Chevy Lumina and had a problem similar to yours, car stalling. After troubleshooting the problem myself buying parts that I didn't need. I took the car and had it put on a machine to see what the problem was.

Found out the problem was the number five fuel injector. The problem was a bad fuel injector. The #5 fuel injector was causing the 1992 Chevy Lumina to cut off all the time. So I just unplug only the # 5 fuel injector and that solved the car cutting off problem. But the car was now running on five cylinders instead of six cylinders.

Hope that help.
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Friday, April 8th, 2011 AT 3:18 AM
Tiny
JPINJPIN
  • MEMBER
Ok so its actually a 96 lumina. Everyone that worked on it before me told me otherwise. Anyway I actually took it to a certified mechanic payed 50 bucks with a discount and I was told the crankshaft sensor, the pcv tube, throttle gasket, and B1s2 o2 sensor would need replacing and it would cost around 700 with parts and labor. Now not being made of money I took my list of problems to advanced auto parts to price it out and its gonna run me about 200 for parts. Now would big question is this what is causing the car to die at idle during a hot day and the rpms to surge while the car surges as well.
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Tuesday, April 12th, 2011 AT 5:48 AM
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MEMBER
I'd go with crankshaft sensor first. For 50$ you coulda bought a code reader and got the same info yourself? 96 was first year for new universal diagnostic computer system. Why not have advanced read your codes and see if they come up with corroborating info?
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Tuesday, April 19th, 2011 AT 8:58 PM
Tiny
JPINJPIN
  • MEMBER
True I should have had advanced do the reading for free but I was also told my countless people it was 95 so I also paid 50$ to find out it was 96 in the first place. I have never worked on a car until now so its all new to me im just trying to use what little common sense I have and an repair manual to eye ball what I can fix by myself. Fixed what I could and now I need to replace the cranshaft sensor. Any easy way to get to it and perhaps a picture of location? Repair manuel shows it from the bottom but the pic is dark and the repair manual is limited in verbage
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Tuesday, April 19th, 2011 AT 9:42 PM
Tiny
CHEVYNOVA1988
  • MEMBER
I would surely invest in a Hayes Automotive Repair Manual. This book is a must for a do it yourself person. It has so much information.

Also the certified mechanic that told you about what your car needs, did he put the car on a diagnostic machine? That way the diagnostic will tell you exactly where the problem is at. Get the printout if possible.

Then you must decide what to do. You might be able to find the parts at a junk yard. Pick-n-pull has junkyards all around the U.S. Their website is picknpull. Com.

If you desire to buy the parts new, then that's another option. Much more expensive, but that might be better for you.

But I would make sure that the car was put on a diagnostic machine. Try to get a printout and invest in a Hayes Repair Manual for Lumina from 1995 thru 2001 that you can buy at the auto parts for about twenty bucks. It's well worth it.
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Wednesday, April 20th, 2011 AT 3:33 AM
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MEMBER
Did you get it solved? What was it?
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Tuesday, May 3rd, 2011 AT 1:40 AM
Tiny
JPINJPIN
  • MEMBER
Sorry I havent gotten back sooner. Between an 8 month prego fiance, moving apartments, and dealing with time warner cable ive had alot on my plate. So heres a what the print out off the machine at a specialist said.1) found crank sensor failing while cranking, rpm and sensor output are way off. 2) Multiple intake vaccum hose leaks. 3) pcv to throttle body to purge valve hose not sealing. 4) Air intake tube to rear valve cover seal at valve cover leaking. 5) EVAP purge valve stuck open. 6) Vaccum hose to shift modulator is damaged. So the manual I had was the hayes auto repair for 95-01 but the pictures and verbage (although may seem clear enough for a mechanic or car hobbyist) was still a little difficult to navigate thru. So with little money, fed up looks from asking to many questions at advanced auto parts, nights on google image search, peering back to the manual, and my wonderful audience here I had initially thought I had fixed the problem. To address the cranksensor I had no clue what I was getting myself into by pulling the engine forward so I bout a pair of car ramps from Advaced AP for 20 bucks and got underneath the car, wedged my arm between the catalytic converter and the skid plate I barley managed to fit a 10 mm wrench to unscrew the nut that was hold the crank sensor to the back of the engine. From what I noticed it looked like oil or tanny fluid had been dripping directly onto the part where the connector fits into to the crank sensor. Possible short? Also the tunbing encasing the connnector was coverd in oil?And when I touched it the encasing crumble like a cracker in my hand.

To address the intake leaks I went thru each rubber hose I could identify that deals with emmisions and replaced on site with replacement parts or modified rubber and made my own

To address the Pcv problem bout a new Pcv and replaced. Made sure it sat and sealed correctly. Old one looked melted where it seals.

To address the air intake tube it apparently is a dealer part I can only get form detroit (or so I was told for AAP) so I cut the old one I had in half where I was cracked and connected it back together with a new small tight piece of rubber so I can create a seal

To address the EVAP Purge valve was the easiest.I had just replaced it not 2 months before hand so I just took it back to AAP and got a new one and popped it on

Now I was wondering why when I shifted from park to reverse the car would kick like someone ran into me. The hose to the shift modulator wasnt even connected. It was lying ontop of the negative battery ground cable.

As I stated before I had also just changed the heated O2 sensor underneath the car

So I gave the car back to my fiance telling her I think I fixed it now that it shifts smoothly, the car doesnt lerch forward during acceleration, and it wasnt dying. This was good for about a week. We were even getting a/c every now and then when I let go of the gas.I told her I was so happy I feel like I could fix anything. I had spoken to soon. For the next three days the car had the problem where as soon as I would hit 2000 rmps the rpms neddle would go haywire. Up to three down to 1.5 back up to 2 and back down to 1.5 all the while my foot on the gas. It died once pulling up to our apt when I stopped to put in the gate code. So the crank sensor seemed to play major part in fixing the car momentarily and for what I thought was a major victory.

Needless to say we were planning a trip home (3 hr drive) and decided on a rental car instead. Left on easter friday came back the following monday. Started it back up on monday and the car hasnt messed up since and its been
hot but not too hot. Im skeptical that the computer cleared itself up and want to push the envelope by sitting in Austin Traffic at 5pm but I also dont want to shut down an entire lane waiting for a tow truck.

But as for getting her to work and taking trips to the store usually under 30 mins in the sun seems to be working well for the time being. And now that shes gonna work from home in a week the car will surely last thru the summer and I know itll last during the winter and I can save from now until then for a newer car and thats all I really wanted.I know its not gonna last forever since im not gonna rebuild the engine myself and open up everything and clean out the gunk. But hey a car is a car if it gets u from point A to point B

oh yea I also added some seafoam treatment to the gas

if anyone has any inputs on whether is was oil or tranny fluid dripping on the crank sensor I would be much appreciative as well as anything else that I could replace.(Remember im no mechanic)

And as always ill give any further details on what I did. Remember there are no dumb questions
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Tuesday, May 3rd, 2011 AT 7:23 PM
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MEMBER
Glad to hear it seems to be working out now. I usually judge fluids by color trans is red/reddish. And actualy it should not ruin parts by dripping on them.
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Monday, May 9th, 2011 AT 6:42 PM
Tiny
TECHGUY
  • MEMBER
Something that is pretty common on these vehicles is the TCC solenoid in the transmission. Usualy they stick on causing a stall when coming to a stop. Its about a 40$ solenoid and you can access it through the drivers wheel well. It inside the transmission side pan and taks about 1.5 hours to do "book time is 1.3".
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Friday, July 29th, 2011 AT 3:10 AM
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • MEMBER
With a TCC stall the car acts like it is stuck in gear even with foot off gas. This makes you have to put brakes on harder to stop which stalls engine usually with a lurching feeling.
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Friday, August 12th, 2011 AT 3:16 AM

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