I have a sc400 Lexus. Have no Idea where to buy repair manual or parts. Read below and please help.

I repaired all of the vacuum leaks. I do not see any more. I removed the neg of the battery for five minutes. Started the car, drove around the block and a/c worked ok. Then all of a sudden, the car started missing, the a/c stopped, and it went dead. I got it back home, and I can remove the neg on the battery and re-install it, then the a/c works car runs great for about two minutes, then it dies. When I turn it back on, it is idleing much faster. And A/C does not work. Something is bad and the computer is finding it. I am not sure I can make it to the auto parts store in it to find the fault code

Ok, we started it from a cold start and it ran terrible, we pulled in a shop. The mechanic put it up on the rack and went right away checking dual catalytic convertors, resonators, etc.
Then they started saying that the check engine light would not respond or come on at all. They were wanting to keep the car at 80 per hour and go into the dash. (I am not paying for an idiot light, that would make me the idiot) They claimed at first the car was too old, that they had newer meters, then they tried and older meter and claimed the ECU wouldn't keep flashing long enough for them to get the code. Then he started checking the coils, one was newer and had been replaced, the other was original, so he ordered a coil. $215, out the door and the car ran great. Until the next day. From a cold start, it takes three or four tries until it stays running, and when you go it has half power, running slow until it builds up speed. Then stopped at red lights it is idling higher, we pull over turn the thing off and go in a store or something and come back out, start it and it runs great again. After that, there are no more problems the rest of the day.

I am considering a plug job, and a fuel filter replacement and see if it helps. It can't hurt anything but my wallet, since I do not know when they were replace last.

Ok, I had a compression testor, but since it is from the 70's, it has about had it anyway. No coolant lost. Put in the plugs, All plugs looked the same, carbon with no damage, changed fuel filter, and found two loose vacuum hoses. They are like hoses that just got hot and they are plugged on, but loose. I pushed those way on really hard. Car was running great for two days, and then when the fuel light came on, added gas. Then it went back to it's old way of spitting and all that stuff. The A/C will not pull in the clutch when it runs rough and the RPM tops 1200 at idle and then it starts skipping and running rough from 1200 down to rpm of 600. The other day, it cleared up on its own riding down the highway and we had really cold air all the way home. I had another shop tell me it may be the a/c compressor dragging things down. But I do not have the a/c on all the time yet. I am still leaning towards these old vaccum hoses and will not stop until I am sure there is no loose ones anywhere. I would probably pay $700 for another a/c compressor and then it still do the same thing. So, ruling out the simple things are for me. I love being under the hood of this car. Everything is in such great order. I like organization.

Well, I have been busy moving. The place where I lived was a gang hood, I had two tires cut and slashed, and a neighbor had water put in her gas tank. My car runs great most of the time, with the exception of startups. Sometimes it will start up and rev up and then it runs with no power at all. We have just gotten used to turning it off, waiting a few mintues and then start it again and then it is all right, while waiting we smell gas fumes.
And that A/c compressor quit. The clutch engages, squeals and then with a thump it stops and the light over the a/c switch starts blinking. I know the compressor is locked, I see the clutch slipping on in trying to move it. Otherwise Texaco gas seems to make the car run a lot better

I got sick, and found out I have fainting episodes, or possibly seizures. So I have been away for a while.

The way all of this started, we have gotten used to turning the car off when it starts up and idles too fast, and the next time she runs perfect. It is intermittent. But now to the real worse problem. We will look for that first problem later, or may solve them both at the same time who knows?
We had the coldest air, until if got really hot. Then one day there was a squeal under the hood. I noticed that the clutch is pulled into the compressor, but a large center piece with a bolt in it is not turning. It tries intermittently and this is what makes the noise. I put my gauges on it, and of course the compressor is not pumping. I took a large screw driver and the end of the clutch is like a magnet making the driver stick to it, however the cent part of the hub with the bolt in it will not turn, it appears to be broken off of the clutch, Could this be the case and I just need a clutch, or is it possibly a new compressor. Makes me sick knowing it is so hot and I am so sick. I gotta have it cooling. The belt is ok and it all is turning, just not the end of this plate with the nut in it.I feel like that bolt and plate is what turns the compressor and makes it pump. Anybody?

What I replaced was the clutch drive plate that went on the very front of the clutch and viola, A/C worked again

However, the speedometer stopped working while on a trip and the O/D light started flashing. Not many mechanics can test OBD I in Tallahassee, I found out that some one (Probably to sell the car) moved the check engine light so it would not burn, I went into the cluster and moved it from Trac Off to the proper place. Now the engine light stays on all the time, and even jumping out like the page says to doesn't make that light flash. I removed the fuse, I also removed the negative battery cable, and nothing changed to clear any codes, and to make matter worse, the very first problem I wrote you about has started again. You crank the car, it idles high, no power on take off, but that O/D light quit flashing. I tried to jump the terminals to check it, but only the ABS and Cruise lights flash off and on. The speedometer, odometer, and cruise all quit. Everyone says speedsensor. But not everyone agrees as to where it is, transmission, or tires, or more than one. I think I have multiple problems, and not just any mechanic can handle it, and we have NO LEXUS dealer in town. A Toyota Dealer that is it. I want to slap the man who sold the car, and my wife for buying it, it is the 2nd piece of crap she has bought. I will from now on pick the car MYSELF. I am sick of this one. And its age is the problem, no one has the crap to work on it, you have to order parts for it, and I do not have a credit/debit card, no repair manual, nothing. So what in the world could be causing all of these problems? I feel like running it into a dang tree

Well, I do have a check engine light now, at least, but it burns all the time. I did pull the fuse, and neg on the battery to try and clear the codes. The light still stays on. Nothing ever blinked. With the car reved up again and no a/c that O/D light went off and stopped flashing. I bridged the terminals to try and get the codes from the check engine light, but it never blinked. I tried to bridge the terminals to check the O/D light and the ABS light blinked and the Cruise light Blinked, but it was just blinking, not codes. Yesterday, we drove it and a few miles into the drive, (before I fixed that check engine light) the car idled down, the a/c started working and then the O/d light went to flashing again. At no time did the speedometer ever work again, but the odometer has moved about 6 miles in the last two tanks of gas

Oh and I did notice that there was NO BULBS near that check engine light bulb. There should have been three, one for Trac Off, one for check engine and one for the AirBags. But there was only the one bulb. I would have to order the bulbs from Lexus, and there could be faults within the Airbag system, or any of the other bulbs that were gone. Screws were missing where someone entered that cluster and dropped the screws by not having a magnetic screwdriver.

I went to a transmission shop, the car started working good, and the a/c went to cooling again and the O/D light started blinking. The guy at the shop had the meter to check the codes but it would not work, but he did manage to somehow get the check engine light to flash. Code 21, code 28, and code 71. He said it was O2 sensors, and EGR problems. Nothing showed up on the speed sensor, but I think you have to short two other terminals to make those lights blink. My email is Shadowboxer50@gmail. Com

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html is what I am following to get codes, I stand corrected, the TE1 and E1 jumper should have gave that man a code for the speed sensor, and he said it did not, that is was probably the motor head in the cluster. That cluster did not come out, I tilted it to get to those bulbs because the steering wheel must have seized up gears, it doesn't want to move out enough. Something else I guess I have to fix, I see now this Lexus is something to collect, not something to rely on