The locking hub has melted

Tiny
ME2UNOW
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 260,000 MILES
Would a bad lower ball joint on my 1994 ford ranger xlt cause pressure and wear on the wheel bearing and creating heat enough that it would melt the locking hub for the four wheel drive? There was a clicking noise front passenger wheel that I noticed and quickly worsened, I then noticed the locking hub looked melted which it is. I jacked it up removed wheel and locking hub, the wheel bearing feels tight however the lower ball joint is extremely loose. Would that cause pressure on wheel bearings?
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Thursday, September 8th, 2011 AT 12:38 AM

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Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
"WHEEL BEARING FEELS TIGHT"

SORTA MEANS

IT AIN'T TURNING FREELY, AS IT SHOULD? IT'S HARD TO TURN.

OR

IT FEELS GOOD, THERE IS NO "WOBBLE" TO IT, WHEN RAISED OFF THE GROUND AND YANKED ABOUT. EVERYTHING IS "TIGHT"!

YES, ANY NON-PERPENDICULAR TRAVEL OF THE WHEEL WILL STRAIN THE BEARING. IT'S KINDA HOW LONG HAS THIS BEEN GOING ON. IF INDEED THE BEARING CAUSED THIS "HEATING AND MELTAGE"

BUT BEFORE YOU JUMP ON THAT AS A CONCLUSION. CONSIDER THIS

COULD IT BE THE OTHER HUB IS/ WAS/ HAS BEEN "LOCKED IN". RESULT: OTHER AXLE TURNS CONTINUOUSLY AND EITHER THE DRIVESHAFT OR THE "UNLOCKED" HUB HAS A FREE WHEELING (PROBABLY TURNING OPPOSITE OF TRAVEL, DUE TO DIFF ACTION) SHAFT TURNING INSIDE OF IT CONSTANTLY?

I'M A JEEP CJ GUY, I FINALLY PUT WHITE VISIBLE MARKS ON MY HUBS TO READILY SEE THEIR POSITION, AT A GLANCE. SEEMS 4X4 WANNA-BEs MUST MESS WITH MY STUFF, SORTA LIKE."JIM-BOB, WHY THEY GOT ARROWS ON THEM WHEEL CENTERS. LOOKY HERE! THIS THING TURNS!

I DO NOT KNOW IF THE AXLE SPINNING FREE WOULD MELT SOMETHING, MY HUBS ARE ALUMINUM. THEY DO GET WARM, IF NOT CORRECTLY ENGAGED.

I CAN GENERALLY TELL, IF BOTH ARE LOCKED, JUST THE WAY IT DRIVES (TRANSFER CASE STILL IN 4X2), BUT NOT IF JUST ONE OF 'EM ARE LOCKED

IT ALSO MIGHT BE, THE OTHER HUB SAYS "UNLOCKED", MAYBE IT'S STUCK LOCKED?

ON MY CJ 5, I CAN TURN THE AXLES INSIDE THE KNUCKLES TO VERIFY IF IT'S UNLOCKED. SENDING A PIC

BEST I CAN SAY IS FIX THE BALL JOINT(S) CHECK/ REPLACE, IF NEED-BE, YOUR BEARINGS (AND THE RACES TOO)

CHECK HUB OPERATION TOO

LET ME KNOW HOW IT GOES

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, September 8th, 2011 AT 1:59 AM
Tiny
ME2UNOW
  • MEMBER
Okay, so its strange, but. About 3+ months ago I DID notice while turning tightly into a parking space the front end doing the. Four wheel drive hop? I dont know what ya call it, but it made me think "it feels like its in 4x" and the drivers side hub was locked, and how this happened I do not have a clue, nor do I know exactly how long it was in.
So I tried what you described and neither hub was locked, however it was rather tough getting the axleshaft to turn, givin the small space to fit my fingers through to turn it, but even after making it turn it is NOT smoothly turning. It turns very roughly, and I can hear the clicking while feeling the roughness at the same time.
So the windows have been down this whole summer ANY and EVERY time I drive it. So this past friday I drive the 12 miles, to home from my work, stop at the mailbox and I smell? Burning, I park in the driveway leave engine running pop hood half assedly look for smoke to be eminating from? No smoke. It sits until sunday evening when I run errand and the clicking is apparent, 1st time ive heard it. Monday morning upon arriving to work and in the light I 1st notice the meltage of hub and obviously the HEAT/burnig smell culprit. Whats next chief?
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Thursday, September 8th, 2011 AT 4:58 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Its more likely the bad overheated bearing damaged the ball joint from heat transfer. New bearing new races and new ball joint are next check opposite side too! On fords all tires must be the same and properly inflated or 4x4 system is thrown off. The snapping of the differential is due to no limited slip additive. Change oil and add the additive.
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Thursday, September 8th, 2011 AT 3:32 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
THANKS MERLIN 2021.I NEVER SEE YOU MUCH ANYMORE!

AS FOR THE BURNING, IT COULD BE A OIL ON THE MANIFOLD

TRY THIS, AT NIGHT USING A FAINT GLOWING TYPE LIGHT, NOT A SPOTLIGHT OR SOMETHING THAT WILL BLIND YOU, HAVE PERSON #2 KEEP THE LIGHT AGAINST THE FENDERS AND FIREWALL YOU STAND ACROSS THE ENGINE, AND LOOK FOR A "FOG/ MIST/ WHISP" OF SMOKE SORTA CREATED BY THE GLOW OF THE LIGHT.

MAYBE IT WON'T BE SERIOUS

STILL KEEP US INFORMED OF YOUR PROGRESSION

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, September 8th, 2011 AT 7:41 PM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
I keep a watchful eye!
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Thursday, September 8th, 2011 AT 11:08 PM
Tiny
ME2UNOW
  • MEMBER
Ok, I have many questions;
Mainly because i'm limited on fundage or I would just get all of the things "I think" would/should replace.
1. If the lower ball joint(s)is bad should the upper bereplaced along with it? Is it a mandatory type thing?
2. Upon closer exam i've figured out there is a spindle bearing? Which appears to be very sloppy.
So my question is :are the wheel bearings a given(as to needing replaced as well?)
3. Old bearings going into new rotor?(Mine is a 1 unit deal.)
I had many more its becoming mind boggling to me all of the "what ifs" as it is my only means of transport. I truly appreciate any and all knowledgable input. TY
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Saturday, September 10th, 2011 AT 5:25 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
DIS GONNA BE A DIY OR A SHOP THING?

I HAVE LITTLE ABOUT YOUR RIG, PROVIDED AT TOP OR IN YOUR CORRESPONDING

LIKE ENGINE SIZE, TYPE FRONT AXLE, TRACTION LOCK OR STANDARD...I DO GATHER YOU HAVE MANUAL LOCKING HUBS?

I WENT TO EBAY AND AUTOZONE ON-LINE AND SORTA LOOKED FOR PARTS YOU OR A UNDER THE RADAR COMPETENT MECHANIC WOULD REQUIRE YOU TO SUPPLY (THESE KINDA FELLERS WILL WORK ON YOUR STUFF, AND HATE CHASING DOWN PARTS, AND HUNTING FOR $$$)...PRICES ARE NOT REAL BAD IF YOU GO THAT ROUTE........I CAN SOMETIMES HELP TO FIND THAT GUY, IF YOU ARE ABLE TO SCREEN THRU THEM, TO GET A QUALITY ONE!

I KNOW ALL ABOUT THE LIMITED FUND THING, THAT'S WHY I LEARN ALL I CAN, AND DIY!.....MY 2 PRIMARY DRIVERS ARE 35 AND 65 YEARS OLD, AND SIMPLE (TO ME, ANYWAY)

IF YOU TAKE HIM TO A DEALER OR REGULAR AUTO REPAIR SHOP, THINGS WILL SURELY BE DIFFERENT...MOST REQUIRE YOU BUY...SOMETIMES THE SAME EXACT STUFF (SOMETIMES "OEM", IN A LOT OF CASES, IS JUST A LOAD OF CRAP [IN MY EYES], AS I HAVE HAD LITTLE TROUBLE WITH AFTERMARKET STUFF), BUT THRU THEM AT WHATEVER MARK-UP PRICE THEY WANNA STICK ON YOU. THEY WILL ALSO USUALLY DICTATE WHAT YOU "MUST" REPLACE......HERE'S WHERE A REPAIR MANUAL WOULD HELP BETTER THAN ME

LIKE MERLIN2021 SAID, YOU NEED TO SCOPE OUT THE OTHER END OF THE AXLE TOO, CHANCES ARE, WEAR IS ABOUT THE SAME AGE AS THIS SIDE.

AS FAR AS SPINDLE STUFF...I HAVE ACCESS TO A ON-LINE MANUAL, SORTA A SPIFF FOR ANSWERING HERE. IT IS DIFFICULT FOR ME TO READ AND UNDERSTAND, AS IT JUMPS ALL OVER THE PLACE, AND THE DIAGRAMS ARE GOOD, BUT NOT ENOUGH FOR A D.A. DIYer, LIKE ME TO GET A GRASP ON SOME OF THE PROCEDURES. A CHILTON'S OR HAYNES' REPAIR MANUAL PROVIDES BETTER STEP BY STEP FOR ME...I GOOP UP MY BOOKS ENOUGH IN THE GARAGE, MUCH LESS, WHAT I MIGHT DO TO MY COMPUTERS IF I "GRUBBY FINGERED" THEM!

AS FAR AS "ONE UNIT DEAL" YOU MUST BE TALKING 1PC SEALED BEARING...I LOOKED HARD THRU AUTOZONE ON LINE, AND A LITTLE AT THE DIAGRAMS I'M THROWING YOU. I DON'T THINK YOU MEAN HUB AND BEARING BEING A "UNIT" DO YOU?....THERE AGAIN, $30 WELL SPENT, AT THE AUTO PARTS STORE, ON A REPAIR MANUAL WOULD HELP YOU NOW, AND IN THE FUTURE.

I LIKE 'EM........I HAVE MANY, THIS LINK WILL GIVE YOU CLUE ON SOME OF THE STUFF I HAVE, I CONSTANTLY GET JEEP BOOKS, EACH OF OUR VEHICLES HAS A TOOL KIT AND A MANUAL FOR IT....MY JEEPS HAVE MASSIVE OVERKILL, IN THEM....BEING LIKE THAT, SELDOM DO I NEED ANY OF IT, IT'S ALWAYS THE OTHER GUY, THAT I STOP TO ASSIST.

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/2005-ford-focus-power-steering

THIS LINK, AT THE END, SORTA SHOWS ALMOST A "FULL FIELD LAYOUT" OF "MR. JEEP".....ONE DAY, I'LL DO ONE FOR "WILLY", AND TAKE PICS OF HIS GEAR!

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1988-ford-cougar-headlights-dashlights-dimmed-before-while-driving

NOW GONNA POST SOME DIAGRAMS FROM "MITCHEL 1", I THINK I PLUGGED IN ENOUGH OF YOUR INFO TO GET THE RIGHT STUFF...IF YOU CANNOT READ THIS STUFF, LET ME KNOW, I WILL INITIATE A MESSAGE TO YOU, WHERE YOU CAN SAFELY GIVE ME YOUR EMAIL ADDRESS (YOU CANNOT, UNTIL YOU HAVE 10 POSTS, I CAN INITIATE TO YOU)...DO NOT POST IT HERE, IN OPEN FORUM, FOR THE WORLD TO SEE...JUST LET ME KNOW IF YOU CANNOT READ IT....I NEVER KNOW HOW IT'S GONNA LOOK, UNTIL I SUBMIT

YOU TURN

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, September 11th, 2011 AT 5:10 AM
Tiny
ME2UNOW
  • MEMBER
Yes after getting quotes fron repair shops its going to be a DIY repair, quotes(1200.00-1750.00).
Its a 1994 Ford ranger xlt, 4x4, 4.0, Dana 35 fr. Axle.
I was prepaired to get the ball joint removal/install kit, at about $75.
Rotors, wheel bearings, seals, lower ball joints at about $250
Was just going to use the existing pads beings they're about half gone.
Now theres spindle bearings and seals dont know how much those are yet, and i'm told of slide hammer with pullers to remove spindle bearings/seals, again dont know of the price yet.
The (one piece)i was referring to is rotor/hub. My old 79 Bronco along with any other ford up through the early 90s rotor is seperate from hubs.
Basically the cost is probably about doubled at this point along with the fix time. So i'm hoping its going to last another week.
I'm going to attach a pic of my piece for a before breakdown status. If there is another pic posted it'll be a after it brokedown pic. It'll give everyone something to laugh and shake their heads at.I'm crossing my fingers.
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Sunday, September 11th, 2011 AT 9:04 PM
Tiny
ME2UNOW
  • MEMBER
Before
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Sunday, September 11th, 2011 AT 9:08 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
CALL AROUND, SOME PLACES WILL LET YOU RENT THE "ONCE IN A LIFETIME, USE TOOLS"!

ARE YOUR HUBS/ ROTORS DESTROYED, OR BELOW TOLERANCE IN THICKNESS?

TRUCK LOOKS GOOD, IF YOU WANT, I CAN EXPLAIN THE POOR MAN'S WAY TO MAKE YOUR LIGHTS CLEARER. EZ TO DO, YOU MAY HAVE THE STUFF ON HAND.

NOT LONG AGO, I HELPED MY DAUGHTER CHANGE THE BALL JOINTS ON HER EXPLODER ('96) I WAS ABLE TO USE "MONSTER C-CLAMP" (1ST PIC, IS USING IT ON MY JEEP TRANNY) WITH DIFFERENT COMBINATIONS OF "PUSHER"--"RECEIVER" SOCKETS AS SHOWN IN 2ND PIC (SMALLER CLAMP, DOIN' A "U"-JOINT)

MONSTER CLAMP HAD NO PROBLEMS PUSHING, JUST HAD A HARD TIME FITTING IT INTO THE TIGHT SPOTS. I EVEN DUCT TAPE THE SOCKETS TO THE CLAMP, TO FREE UP MY HANDS. WE HAD TO GET THE EXPLODER REAL HIGH, AND USE THE MONSTER, UP-SIDE DOWN. WE DID NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE ARMS, TO PRESS 'EM OUT/ BACK IN. I WISH I HAD TAKEN PICS, I DO FOR EVERYTHING ELSE!

THE MEDIC
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Monday, September 12th, 2011 AT 12:42 AM
Tiny
ME2UNOW
  • MEMBER
Thank you cj medevac for helpin me out. So I have purchased a chiltons however the only one they had covers mercury mountaineer/explorers/mazdas/and of course rangers. It is a bit confusing as to whether my ranger has actual spindle bearings because it says one thing in one section and another in a different section.
My truck: 1994 ford ranger xlt 4x4, 4.0L, automatic trans, manual locking hubs, dana35 fr axle.
1. Can anyone tell me if this vehicle has spindle bearings?
2. If i'm going to replace the lower balljoints do the upper need replaced as well?
3. Does the axle shaft have to be removed to replace the ball joints and/or wheel bearings and/or spindle bearings?
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Wednesday, September 14th, 2011 AT 11:51 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
LOOK BACK AT THE 2ND DIAGRAM, A COUPLE OF ANSWERS BACK

JUST TO THE RIGHT OF THE "SPLASH SHIELD", YOU GOT A "NEEDLE BEARING SEAL" AND "SPINDLE NEEDLE BEARING", IT LOOKS MUCH LIKE MY CJ 5, IN THAT THE OUTER PART OF THE AXLE (PAST THE U-JOINT) WOULD RIDE ON THESE, INSIDE THE SPINDLE, TO KEEP THE AXLE "IN-LINE" (OR ALWAYS PERPENDICULAR, TO THE HUB/ LOCKING HUB)

I DID A DANA 30 SEARCH, GRABBED THIS "44" DIAGRAM, WHICH LOOKS LIKE MINE, AT A GLANCE. PAY ATTENTION TO #s 49-53 THIS IS HOW MY CJ IS SET UP. THESE NEEDLE BEARINGS ARE INSIDE THE SPINDLE. IN FACT, I JUST ORDERED REPLACEMENT "GREASE-ABLE" "U"-JOINTS (WHICH GO IN #48) AND THE SPINDLE NEEDLE BEARINGS TO REPAIR MY "GETTING FLOPPY" JOINTS, AND THE SEALS.I FIGURE IF I'M GONNA GO IN, GO AHEAD AND DO IT ALL. OVER THE PAST 2 YEARS, I HAVE BEEN TAKING PICS OF REPAIR STEPS, AND COOL MODIFICATIONS I HAVE DONE TO MY JEEPS, TO MAKE THEM "USER FRIENDLIER". I IMAGINE I WILL BE INSTALLING WITHIN THE NEXT 2-3 WEEKS, AND WILL HAVE PICS OF OF THAT PROCEDURE TOO! I NORMALLY PUT THEM IN "WALMART ALBUM SHARING" AND CAN EZily AND QUICKLY SEND THEM TO INTERESTED PEOPLE.

AS FAR AS THE UPPER JOINTS, I'D AT MINIMUM, TRY TO MAKE THEM MOVE, OF "FLOP" (AS THEY SHOULD NOT), ONCE YOU GET IN THERE TO 'EM. CAN YOU HAVE THEM ON HAND (RETURNABLE) IF NEEDED OR NOT?

JUST LOOKING AT THE DIAGRAM, LOOKS LIKE THE SPINDLE WILL COME OFF, WITHOUT REMOVING THE AXLES.

WITH YOUR NEW REPAIR MANUAL, I SOMETIMES READ THRU STUFF SEVERAL TIMES, INSURING I AM NOT LOOKING AT ANOTHER APPLICATION AS I GO, THEN I COME BACK AND "HIGHLIGHT" JUST WHAT PERTAINS TO MY APPLICATION ONLY.A CHILTON'S IS EZ, COMPARED TO THIS ONLINE MANUAL WE CAN ACCESS (MITCHELL I), IT'S FULL OF GOOD INFO, BUT LACKS STEPxSTEP WITH A CLOSE-BY DIAGRAM, I STILL GET LOST, AND HATE JUMPING AROUND AND TRYING TO LOCATE DIAGRAMS THAT GO WITH A PROCEDURE. GIMME A CHILTON'S OR HAYNES' REPAIR MANUAL ANY DAY!

KEEP ME INFORMED

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, September 15th, 2011 AT 3:19 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
1ST LINK JUST FLASHES THE INTENDED DIAGRAM

HERE'S ANTHER ATTEMPT WITH A DANA 30. PARTS 8-12 IS THE SPINDLE NEEDLE BEARINGS AND PARTS

THE MEDIC
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Thursday, September 15th, 2011 AT 3:29 AM

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