With engine running brake pedel goes to floor, very minimal stopping power. Calipers and wheel cyls replaced recently. Front and rear brakes still have decent amount of material left on pads, rotors, shoes and drums. Front rubber caliper hoses are dry, rear rubber ”T” block hose is dry. Havent started troubleshooting m/c or booster yet but guessing problem might be in one of those.
Well I changed out rear brake hardware, bleed brakes and same thing brake pedal went to floor. I noticed when wife was pumping brakes (engine on) that mc was bubbling up in resivor. But when engine is off have very strong brake pedel. So confused on where my issue is booster or mc
September, 30, 2012 AT 1:42 AM
WITHOUT BETTER INFO ON YOUR RIG...LIKE NOMENCLATURE AND ENGINE SIZE, I CANNOT LOOK UP STUFF LIKE WHAT YOUR MASTER CYLINDER LOOKS LIKE.
IF YOURS LOOKS ANYTHING LIKE MINE IN MY JEEP (SEE 1ST PIC)....YES, IF YOU LEAVE THE TOP OFF AND ACTUATE THE BRAKE PEDAL, BRAKE JUICE WILL BOIL ALL OVER THE PLACE. THIS IS JUICE BEING SQUIRTED FROM THE HOLES IN THE BOTTOM OF THE RESERVOIRS.
I IMAGINE WITH THE BOOSTER WORKING (CAR ON) IT WILL BE EVEN WORSE SINCE THE PEDAL IS MUCH EZier TO PUSH.
A TRADITIONAL MASTER CYLINDER IS NOT CONNECTED TO A TRADITIONAL BRAKE BOOSTER AS FAR AS "SHARING FLUID". THE BOOSTER JUST ASSISTS IN PUSHING THE PISTON INSIDE THE MASTER CYLINDER
HERE'S WHAT I WOULD DO...BEFORE I WENT MUCH FURTHER
IN THIS LINK....EVEN THOUGH THIS IS NOT EXACTLY YOUR SYSTEM
NOTICE HOW HE GETS THE SHOES CLOSE TO THE DRUMS...NOT DRAGGING (A "SCUFF" HERE AND THERE IS OK) FINER ADJUSTMENTS MIGHT BE MADE ACCESSING THE ADJUSTMENT HOLE IN THE BACKSIDE OF THE BRAKE BACKING....THERE ARE MORE VIDEOS SHOWING THIS TECHNIQUE...JUST GOTTA LOOK!
IF THE MASTER CYLINDER HAS BEEN "DRY" (NO FLUID IN IT)---THE BENCH BLEED IS NEEDED...AS IN THE VIDEO. NAPA AUTO PARTS SHOULD HAVE THE ADAPTERS AND HOSES TO DO THIS
ARE YOU ATTACKING THE BLEEDING..."MY WAY"????
IF THIS AIN'T GETTING IT
NEXT THING I'D TRY IS TO REPLACE THE MASTER CYLINDER
SAME THING--INSTALL IT, HAVE YOUR BUDDY SLOWLY PUMP THE PEDAL WHILE YOU OPERATE THE HOSES....ONCE THE AIR IS OUT, CONNECT THE STEEL LINES BACK ON AND BEGIN YOUR BLEEDING FARTHERMOST WHEEL OUT, WORKING YOUR WAY TO THE CLOSEST ONE TO THE MASTER CYLINDER
I WOULD GO AHEAD AND SHOW YOU THIS WITH THE MASTER CYLINDER YOU REQUIRE...BUT I NEED MORE INFO TO SELECT IT.....I DO NOT HAVE A PROBLEM WITH RE-MANUFACTURED PARTS. SOMETIMES THE REMAN HAS A BETTER WARRANTY!
SEE MY 7th AND 8TH ANSWER IN THIS POST...THIS IS A GUIDE TO HELP YOU IN PURCHASING ANYTHING FROM ANYWHERE!
I MYSELF JUST DONE THIS AGAIN TODAY...OUR SPARE CAR, A '95 DODGE NEON, NEEDED A BATTERY TOO....I SELECTED THE "SILVER" FOR $100.99 AND USED "FABU" AGAIN....KNOCKED OFF $40 ONCE AGAIN!
KEEP ME POSTED ON YOUR SITUATION OR SHOOT MORE QUESTIONS
September, 30, 2012 AT 1:59 AM
Sorry its a 94 g20 van with 5.7 350. 98k miles. I got a reman mc that im gonna put in tomorrow morning $35 plus $5 core and bleed as u mentioned. When fluid was bubbling before caps where on mc. Will let u know how thinks work out tommorow.
September, 30, 2012 AT 2:20 AM
MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU!
LET ME KNOW HOW IT'S GOING
THE OLE PROMOS TAKE OFF SOMETHING, JUST GOTTA SEARCH FOR THEM
"FABU" WORKS FOR LOWER $$$ TOO.$10 IS $10. TRY IT NEXT GO 'ROUND, TELL YOUR PALS