Truck turns over fine (strong battery) does not.

If there was no spark from coil to cap I would have no fire at the plugs correct? I DO have fire at the plugs. Module mabe, but again from past experience, when module goes thats it! No more fire to plugs until its replaced. As far as spraying cleaner around base of TBI I got your reasoning. That won't work until its running and I think I mentioned that I opened the throttle plates and sprayed into the intake, attempting to start it. I'm not an expert but I do have a little experience from the past, mostly "old school hotrods".
Thanks for your input.
Thinking that the "spark" at the plugs may be weak, I have a new coil, wires, cap and rotor and plugs on the way (time for tune up anyways). Another point I need to check may be the crank sensor? Mabe check the timing chain, pull up #1 (compression stroke) on TDC and see if both valves are closed. Again I'm old school all this onboard computer/sensors kind'a intimidates me, so I'm most likely taking the simple and making it harder that it is. Need to get back to basics I guess. Hey thanks again for your suggestions.

Sorry forgot. Its a 1994 S10 with a 4.3L engine V6. Again whats really throwing me off is the fact that I have fire at plugs and cannot start it for a few seconds by opening the throttle plates, spraying directly into intake. The parts arrived, AC Delco CR43TS plugs, MSD cap and rotor, MSD coil and new wires. I know I didn't need them but it was time for tune up anyway so why not. Trying to cover what I can, I found the fuel pump relay (under the dash on a 94) and have 11.6volts to the relay. The horn relay is right beside it, same type, swaped them and both relays work. And I agree with you, does not seem like a fuel problem, but then again the pump went out 2 weeks ago, changed it and everything was dandy for two weeks. And by checking voltage to the pump relay with switch on (voltage present) that eliminated the switch as well. The pump I bought was from Advance Auto, hey I had no choice, had to bum a ride to get there, but I have one on hand now, a Delpa that I got from NAPA. Should be OEM.
Now you suggested disconnecting the MAP sensor, ok, not sure exactly where it is but it should be on top of the intake somewhere. I was able to borrow a vehicle so at least I got wheels for now. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

Already attempted to get code using the paper clip method, have done this in the past. It is a 12 pin plug under the dash that only utilizes 3 of the slots (A and B plus one more) I could not get the flashes. Should have, as you said done the code 12 three times(code 12 meaning the diagnostic is working). The ECM is under the hood on top of coolant reservoir. I read somewhere if thats the case, I would have OBD 1.5 and not OBD 1. Wherever I read that article stated that OBD 1.5 cannot be tested in this manner. Going to unhook the MAP and also check out another theory of mine today. But hey, its Christmas, and like I said, I was able to borrow a vehicle. So please enjoy and have a MERRY CHRISTMAS
I'm not giving up, I'll figure this out sooner or later, reminds me of marriage vows."For better or worse". Thanks

Went ahead and installed the fuel pump from NAPA along with a new inline filter. The map sensor is located on the intake, passenger side near the TBI. Roughly 1 1/2" wide, mabe 3 1/2" long, one vacuum line and a 3 pin plug. Unhooked it tried to start engine, no change at all, never started. I do not have an MSD system, just a stock replacement coil from MSD and cap and rotor. Ever known an ignition module (HEI) to mabe be weak but not completly gone? All the ones I've ran across when they go they go out completly.