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1994 Beretta 3.1 wont stay started

Tiny
RICOE2010
  • MEMBER
  • 1994 CHEVROLET BERETTA
  • 148,000 MILES
3.1 v-6

just took the intake and plenum off to fix a valve problem. Took everything off the top (fuel rail, coilpacks, spark wires, etc.
(stupid) reused the intake gaskets and replaced the plenum gaskets.
now car sputters, wont stay started, feels like its missing and has no power. Took the egr off and I have what I would think is water in it. Im thinking that should be a tell tale sign that the intake gaskets are leaking. Also my oil pressure gauge is off the readings when I turn the car on.
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Monday, January 9th, 2012 AT 12:20 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
I think that you should re trace the work that you have done, order all new gaskets and carefully re fit all components clean all signs of old gasket off all faces as well, if it was fine before touching it for the original work, the problem will proberbly with the fit up you did.
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Monday, January 9th, 2012 AT 12:24 AM
Tiny
RICOE2010
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I normally clean and inspect before I put together. The intake gaskets didnt look tore up so I didnt even touch them. Everything went together smooth too. The one thing I had a suspicion of was firing order for the plug wires.
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Monday, January 9th, 2012 AT 1:04 AM
Tiny
RICOE2010
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  • 21 POSTS
I keep getting told the ign timing is 246 on what would be the right side if your looking at it from the front of the engine and 135 one the left, put the wries to each number, simple enough. But it sounds like its missing.
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Monday, January 9th, 2012 AT 1:07 AM
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
See pic for firing order, let me know if yours was correct.
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Monday, January 9th, 2012 AT 6:08 AM
Tiny
RICOE2010
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  • 21 POSTS
Thats how I have it. Checked it twice. Checked the coilpacks, there fine, checked ckp, cmp, and injector connections, all tight and clicked in, fuel pressures fine, the only thing I havent checked is oil pressure and the egr circuit and piping. I know that the egr can make it act this way too. Someone said to check the iac valve. Its just weird. It should throw a code. Shoudnt it?
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Monday, January 9th, 2012 AT 7:04 PM
Tiny
RICOE2010
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  • 21 POSTS
It ran like like this when I bought it. The people before me had to of replaced the head gaskets because they mixed up two of the push rods and one bent while the other (thank god) just chattered.
I changed them back to where they needed to go and the valves sound like new again. I've read on other forums too that berettas are a pain to work on.
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Monday, January 9th, 2012 AT 7:14 PM
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
Have you done a scan, not all codes will set a check light, IAC can cause a problem and not set a code, normally you will have a very low base idle speed and stalling problems if the IAC is acting up.
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Monday, January 9th, 2012 AT 9:26 PM
Tiny
RICOE2010
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Ok then. Ill have to run the codes. And if bad comes to worse ill have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop. Thank you sir, youve been nothing but helpful!
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Monday, January 9th, 2012 AT 11:15 PM
Tiny
RICOE2010
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  • 21 POSTS
Well, heres the thing. My obd reader only does MIL codes. Ill see if anything shows up though
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Monday, January 9th, 2012 AT 11:18 PM
Tiny
RICOE2010
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  • 21 POSTS
Ok. This has stumped the crap out of me. Im almost pointing to a faulty pcm. No codes. Nothing wrong with this damn thing. I went ahead anyways and tore it back apart, replaced all the gaskets. And went through, little by little, and put everything back together. It still runs like crap. It runs a little better. No power, can take my foot of the gas, sounds like a damn lawnmower. If I dont figure it out soon im gonna have to get it to a mechanic.
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Sunday, January 15th, 2012 AT 11:48 PM

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