Car won't start

Tiny
JDL
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You take the crank sensor connector loose from ignition module. Do an ohms test on the wiring terminals to the crank sensors.

If that checks out, with everything plugged into the ignition module. Turn the key on, at the ignition module, purple wire with white tracer is the 4x signal, should be 5 volts. The lite blue wire with black tracer is 24x signal, 5 volts.

Then, engine cranking, the 4x signal may go to 1.5--2volts. The 24x signal stays around 5 volts.
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Saturday, April 9th, 2011 AT 12:37 PM
Tiny
LEWIS25
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I got it to crank but it idles up and down.
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Saturday, April 9th, 2011 AT 2:21 PM
Tiny
JDL
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Off idle, open the throttle, how does it sound? You may need to clean the idle air control valve and passages. You could have a vacuum leak? Other than idle, is it driveable?
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Saturday, April 9th, 2011 AT 2:46 PM
Tiny
LEWIS25
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I didn't check because it stay's idled up to about 4,000 RPM's. When I try to give it some gas, it doesn't respond. It runs like the throttle is completely open but it's not.
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Saturday, April 9th, 2011 AT 3:06 PM
Tiny
JDL
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Take the throttle linkage loose, any difference? Block off the mouth of the throttle-body, any effect on the idle, that should kill it.

Check the tps and iac.

How did you get spark back?
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Saturday, April 9th, 2011 AT 3:15 PM
Tiny
LEWIS25
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Where is the iac valve located?
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Saturday, April 9th, 2011 AT 4:13 PM
Tiny
JDL
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Look for an idle air control motor. If you answered some of my questions, it might help a little?
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Saturday, April 9th, 2011 AT 4:37 PM
Tiny
LEWIS25
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The two crankshaft position sensors were backwards. I had the plug to sensor A on sensor B.
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Saturday, April 9th, 2011 AT 4:51 PM
Tiny
JDL
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Good catch.
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Saturday, April 9th, 2011 AT 5:00 PM
Tiny
LEWIS25
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I tried what you said but it still idles at about 4,000 RPM's.
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Saturday, April 9th, 2011 AT 7:33 PM
Tiny
LEWIS25
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When I cover the mouth of the throttle body completely, it still doesn't kill the motor and when I put it in gear, it idles at about 2,000 RPM, s.
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Saturday, April 9th, 2011 AT 11:07 PM
Tiny
JDL
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I guess I'd have to look at it? If you block the air inlet, it shouldn't run, It has to have air. Does inlet air go to the mouth of throttle-body? If air inlet goes elsewhere, block it.

With engine off, unplug idle air motor. Start engine, idle any different? I'm about out of ideas?
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Sunday, April 10th, 2011 AT 12:22 AM
Tiny
LEWIS25
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It runs like you're on the gas at all times. It doesnt want to stop when you press the brake but as far as the transmission goes, it shifts perfect but it idles so high, I have to put it in neutral and turn it off.
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Sunday, April 10th, 2011 AT 12:54 AM
Tiny
JDL
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Does the inlet air go to the throttle-body or elsewhere? I'm talking about the air inlet from the air filter, block it off. Did you unplug the idle air motor? Unplug the throttle positioner sensor. Do these one at a time with engine off, then start.
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Sunday, April 10th, 2011 AT 2:18 PM
Tiny
LEWIS25
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It goes to the throttle body on the intake. Unplugging the sensors doesn't change anything.
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Sunday, April 10th, 2011 AT 2:59 PM
Tiny
JDL
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If the engine isn't getting air, it can't run. It's getting air from somewhere.
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Sunday, April 10th, 2011 AT 3:37 PM
Tiny
LEWIS25
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I did the thing again to check the codes and the only one that was current was P132
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Sunday, April 10th, 2011 AT 4:07 PM
Tiny
JDL
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That is a knock sensor code. I don't think that will cause high-idle. I'd have to put a scanner on it, that will show live engine data, try to see what's going on.
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Sunday, April 10th, 2011 AT 5:04 PM
Tiny
JDL
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You could try tapping the block close to knock sensor, see if any effect on idle?

I've seen faulty cruise controls go crazy and the rpms would hit the roof. If you had everything disconnected from throttle-body, that shouldn't be an issue.
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Sunday, April 10th, 2011 AT 5:10 PM
Tiny
LEWIS25
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What do you suggest I do?
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Sunday, April 10th, 2011 AT 6:08 PM

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