DOES ANYONE HAVE A PIC OF HOW THE TIMING MARKS ON A 1994 BUICK 2.3 LITER LINE UP??

  • Tiny
  • jeremy76
  • 1994 Buick
  • 80,000 miles

I just need a pic or location of the timing marks

Wednesday, March 28th, 2012 AT 10:52 PM

9 Answers

  • Tiny
  • rasmataz
  • Member

Buick -what model?

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Wednesday, March 28th, 2012 AT 10:59 PM
  • Tiny
  • jeremy76
  • Member

Its a buick achieva 2.3 liter

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Thursday, March 29th, 2012 AT 9:10 PM
  • Tiny
  • Wrenchtech
  • Expert
  • 19,840 posts

The Achieva is an Oldsmobile, not a Buick. There are 3 different 2.3 engine so we need the 8th digit of the VIN#.

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Thursday, March 29th, 2012 AT 10:34 PM
  • Tiny
  • jeremy76
  • Member

The 8th digit on the vin is a 3 n I didnt mean to call it a buick that was my fault.

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Sunday, April 1st, 2012 AT 12:07 AM
  • Tiny
  • Wrenchtech
  • Expert
  • 19,840 posts

You're welcome. Be VERY careful when you rotate that engine. The pistons will hit the valves and bend them very easily.

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Sunday, April 1st, 2012 AT 3:01 AM
  • Tiny
  • jeremy76
  • Member

Thanks for the tip! The cam wouldnt rotate so I had to move the crank alil then it moved freely

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Tuesday, April 3rd, 2012 AT 4:57 PM
  • Tiny
  • Wrenchtech
  • Expert
  • 19,840 posts

That probably saved you $500 or more by doing that.

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Tuesday, April 3rd, 2012 AT 5:03 PM
  • Tiny
  • jeremy76
  • Member

Ok on this 94 olds I got it n it didnt run so I changed the coils n still got nothin, so because there still wasent spark I moved to the timing chain and found that the tensionor was shot n the timing chain was jumpin around.I just replaced the tensionor, chain, and spockets n set the timing exactly what the pic showed n it still wont start.I also had the spark module tested!Any ideas that might help would be greatly appreciated?Thanks

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Tuesday, April 3rd, 2012 AT 11:30 PM
  • Tiny
  • Wrenchtech
  • Expert
  • 19,840 posts

Complete the rest of the testing that you haven't already done.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

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Tuesday, April 3rd, 2012 AT 11:35 PM

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