1993 Saturn oil light blinking / code 26

I would check the coolant temp sensor it's pretty common for it go bad on that car. It's the bottom sensor with two wire's going to it a yellow wire and black wire. It's screwed into the head below where the upper radiator hose goes on. Also inspect the connector going to it if it's corroded replace the connector too. The tip of the sensor's were made of plastic and they cracked. The sensor is only like 10. Let me know what you find.

Its not going to be a dirty or bad injector that would cause a miss on one cylinder. Try this hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor while starting it when it starts keep holding to the floor see if the rpms will go to the rev limter that way. Let me know what you find.

You can try that but when they go bad I really haven't seen them stick open the just don't open when there commanded to. Have you checked the coolant temp sensor it's really common for them to go bad and cause starting running and many other thing's to happen. Even if the canister purge solenoid was stuck wide open I just don't see that keeping it from running.

Alright keep me posted I vote for the coolant temp sensor.

You could always try the coolant temp sensor they usually have those in stock and there only like 10. It's really common for those to go bad. All the bad canister purge's solenoid's I have seen I have never seen them cause the problem's your having.

If it's idling at 2,000 rpm's at idle then you most likely have a vacuum leak or a sticking idle air control valve I really doubt that a bad canister purge solenoid is causing that. Try this when it idle's that high unplug the supply line from the valve body to the canister purge solenoid and plug it off if it still idle's that high you are barking up the wrong tree. The best way to find a vacuum leak is when it's idling high spray some carb spray around all the vacuum area's if the idle goes up down stumble's or die's you found a leak.

Yeah that would be the low coolant light if it stay's on with it full check to see if the back up light fuse is good. Then unplug the low coolant switch jump the two connectors together and see if the light goes out if it does then you have a bad switch. As far as the high on a stick shift when the computer see's that your moving it raise's the idle up that is normal.

I would just replace that coolant temp sensor just because its really common for them to go bad and there only like 10. It's hard to tell if there bad without a scan tool that can read engine live data and a temperature gun.I'm on my second sensor on the saturn I have owned going on 5yrs now. It's just cheap insurance also inspect the connector.

I posted the code description for code 26 no the coolant temp sensor isn't part of the quad driver circuit. The power seat belt module is though does your speedometer work?Does your power seat belt work?So what happen to your canister purge solenoid replacement?Did you test the solenoid before replacing it?Does your radiator cooling fan work?

DESCRIPTION
A quad drive module is a semiconductor device capable of controlling four separate outputs. Each output of the QDM is an open collector driver which when turned on pulls the output to ground. A load is connected between 12 volts and the driver. When the output is turn on, current flows from the battery, through the load, through the driver to ground. Each QDM has a fault line feedback. A comparison of the driver input and output states is performed. If the input and output are in the same state, a fault will be detected. Each QDM has only one fault line that will detect a fault on any of the four

CODE PARAMETERS
Code 26 will set if there is an open or short on any of the QDM output circuits.

DIAGNOSTIC AIDS

Components Resistances:
EGR Solenoid 20 - 50 ohms
Canister Purge Solenoid 20 - 50 ohms
Coolant Fan Relay 80 ohms
A/C Relay 8O ohms

NOTE: all resistance are ±10 ohms

A shorted or open solenoid, relay or bulb can cause a Code 26.

If one output is bad the PCM will shut down only that QDM output and not the entire quad driver unless the Quad driver reaches its thermal limit (short to voltage). At this time it will turn all four Quad driver outputs off. When the Quad driver cools down it will turn back on and this process will start over.

If any corresponding codes have been set: (Example Code 32) diagnose that QDM circuit first.

Check the tightness of the female terminal grip with the spare male terminal.

Use the Saturn Service stall system (if available) to diagnose the Quad Driver circuits.

When viewing "QDM FAULT" (using a scan tool or Dynamic Display), you may notice the fault appears to be intermittent. This may be due to it being an intermittent fault, but more likely is due to the way the fault detection logic works. For example, if the EGR solenoid is off, the PCM expects to see 12 volts on the sense line. If the circuit is open, 0 volts will bee seen, and the fault will be displayed. However, if the EGR solenoid is turned on (for instance at cruising speeds) the PCM expects to see 0 volts on the sense line, and will not detect a fault. In this example, the display would show "QDM FAULT A" at idle, but if the RPM is raised, the display will show "QDM FAULT NONE". When returned to idle, the fault will again be displayed.

NOTICE: When using the Saturn Service stall system to diagnose PCM/EC code 26, a PCM/TC code 51 may be set. Under these circumstances PCM/TC code 51 is a false code.

If it's a slow beeping minder it's for the key. If so is the key cylinder popping all the up if it is you will have to replace the ignition switch the electrical one. It's pretty common for the key minder on the switch to stick and not release and cause the warning chime to stay on. As far as the abs light goes if you can get the car scanned with a abs code scanner and get me the code numbers I will help you out with that.