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1993 Saturn oil light blinking / code 26

Tiny
BLACKBOY454
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 SATURN SL2
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 122,000 MILES
I have a 1993 saturn sl2, 5 speed manual. I have a code 26 comping up on the diagnostics check and every once in a while when driving the car the oil light blinks at me, I check the oil and its just fine. Is there a low oil sensor on this particular car, and couild it be related to my code 26 that is coming up. Haynes manual says code 26 - improper voltage to the quad driver, or quad driver fault. Or is the blinking oil light saying I am losing oil pressure.
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 12:03 AM

63 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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As far as the oil light goes if the oil is full then you have a bad wire, bad oil sender or low oil pressure. There is no oil level sensor on that car. How active is the service engine light?DOes it come on daily etc?Also does the scanner you used have able to show you what rpm the code 26 set?The quad circuit cover's a lot of thing's speedometer radiator cooling fan circuit egr solenoid canister purge solenoid your power seat belt's just to name a few. There is a problem some where within the components in the quad circuit.
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 12:09 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
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DTC 26 (quad driver fault)

Oil light coming on:

Check the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, if normal replace the oil pressure switch. If abnormal could mean oil pump and engine bearing
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 12:16 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
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The service engine light comes on about 5 to 15 seconds after I start the car every single time. I jumped the wires on the computer plug in located under the steeting column with a paperclip and counted the flashes of the service light. I had a egr fault code before but have since replaced the egr selenoid that is mounted on the valve cover and have not had the egr fault code since. Im assuming the code 26 could very well be the canister purge selenoid being as how the code 26 only started appearing after the egr fault code. I assume they are related but I am far from an expert, someone can confirm this for me if I am right. I am a little concerned about the flashing oil light, details on that: it comes on and flashes every once in awhile but I shut down and restart the car and 90% of the time it doesnt do it again that day. Anyone know what the most common problem is for that on this car?
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 1:04 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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You are probably right about the canister purge solenoid being bad if you have a multimeter I can tell you how to test it. As far as the oil light goes you have a bad oil sender or low oil pressure. The oil pump's hardly ever go bad on those but you could have a clogged screen faulty pressure regulator etc. Without removing the oil pressure sender and screwing in a oil pressure gauge when the light is on you won't know for sure. You could try replacing the oil pressure sending unit but there is no way to tell if that's what the problem is for sure without doing what I asked. The sending unit is only 10 at auto zone.
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 1:25 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
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Found an oil pressure switch, link>>"http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQSaturnQQSW2QQAC_DelcoQQOil_Pressure_SwitchQQ19931996QQACD1827A.html" for about $22. at that price i might as well just replace it and see if it solves the problem. i have attached a picture of the part if you decide against following a link. as for the canister purge selenoid where is it on the engine and how much of a hassle, in your opinion, would it be to replace? thanks "saturntech9" for all of your answers, i do believe you answered my previous posted question about the egr fault code around early january.
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 1:34 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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That looks like the oil pressure sending unit there only 10 at auto zone unless your set on putting a a/c delco one in I would try the 10 one. The canister purge solenoid is mounted to the back of the engine block above the starter it has two vacuum lines going to it. To me it's easy to change but I have replaced a lot of them over the year's.I probably did answer your egr valve question in jan I answer a lot of saturn question's on hear.
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 1:43 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
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O reileys can also order me one for $10, being as how I have never been to an auto zone because I dont have one within 20 miles of my home. With my fathers help I can probably be able to replace the canister purge solenoid but where is the oil pressure sending unit on the engine. My best guess without looking would be on the front side of the engine towards the lower part of the block.
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 1:49 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Wrong it's on the back side of the engine block by the back side of the alternator screwed into block. As far a replacing the canister purge solenoid I use a 4 inch long 3/8" drive extension with a 10mm socket use a lock ratchet those bolt's can be tight.
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 1:53 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
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So maybe set aside a saturday and replace both at once and best case scenario both my code 26 and flashing oil light would go away?
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 1:55 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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It shouldn't take you a afternoon maybe an hour or so. Yes best case everything is fixed. Let me know how it goes.
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 2:45 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
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Ok then. Thanks again for all your help. Any other quick advice?
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 2:58 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Non that I can think of let me know how it goes.
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 3:01 AM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
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One more quick question: how do I adjust the emergency brake? I have recently put new brake pads on the rear wheels, and tightened up the 16mm nut under the center counsel linking the Y cable to the brake handle. But it seems only one cable is grabbing, is there another adjustment underneath the backseat at all or it it just the one nut to be tightened to adjust the emergency brake? As of right now only the driver side rear tire grabs the wheel when I engage the E brake.
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 6:35 PM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
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Adding on to previous comment, rear brakes are disc and under the center counsel inside the car the small metal bracket holding both cables to the handle is far from even. Kinda tugged at the passenger side brake cable with my finger and it didnt seem to go anywhere so I am hoping it is not broken completely.
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 6:38 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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So you have rear disc?If so I would suspect the wheel not grabbing has a frozen ebrake arm on the caliper I have seen many of those in the snowy climate where they use salt to help melt the snow on the road's. Let me know what you find.
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 6:39 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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At the ebrake arm in the center console behind the rear ash tray is the only ebrake adjustment there is on that car. If it's pulling uneven then you probably have a frozen ebrake arm on the caliper. Remove the cable from the wheel not grabbing and see if you have a frozen arm and let me know what you find.
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 6:42 PM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
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The caliper did look rusted when we replaced the pads, will probably replace caliper on a warm day when I have the cash and resources to do so. Would anything free up the e brake arm on the caliper such as wd 40 or the real way of fixing things, a hammer?
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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You can try getting a good pentrent and letting it soak down into the shaft for a while then try to work the arm back and fourth to free it up.
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 6:55 PM
Tiny
BLACKBOY454
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Ok, thanks again.
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Tuesday, March 1st, 2011 AT 6:59 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Let me know how it goes.
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Wednesday, March 2nd, 2011 AT 2:25 AM

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