Check Engine Light?

Tiny
PETELIPNEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 FORD TAURUS
  • 3.8L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 260,000 MILES
After starting and driving around town, no problems. Once I get on the freeway and go a couple of miles it comes on and stays on until the end of the trip. Later, if I start it and drive around town, no problem. But once I hit the freeway it goes on again.

Took it to O'Rielly's. They said it showed a mass airflow sensor code and both 02 sensors were registering lean. They told me to use a specific cleaner to clean the sensor. I used it and the problem stopped.

About a month later it started doing the same thing again.

At the same time, I was having a gas gauge problem. I filled the car up and the gauge registered full. About 30 minutes later it registered half full and I had only driven about 30 miles. I checked for leaks and there were none. Took it back to the gas station and it only took about a gallon of gas. I was told that I might have a sending unit problem and if I were going to go through the trouble of replacing that I might as well replace the whole gas pump assembly. I didn't do that right away

After a couple of days the car died on the freeway. It often seems that the simplest answer is often the right one. I replace the fuel pump assembly AND the mass airflow sensor.

It still wouldn't start.

I eventually replace the ignition module and it started right up.

Now, the check engine light is on all the time. I took it to three different O'Rielly stores and another parts store. They all ran the checks and after four tests, no codes were found. I took it to NAPA and Autozone but their test equipment only works on 1995 and after vehicles.

Over the last 6 months, I have had it tuned up and replaced the whole distributor, all the plugs and wires.

I don't know what to do with this thing. I'd appreciate whatever help you can give me.

This car is my wife's baby and I'd like to keep it in good repair for her.

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Saturday, December 6th, 2014 AT 4:29 PM

30 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
The "flash delay" between the code digits threw me for a loop the first time i tried to extract the codes off of dad's '86 t-bird (which is still alive and looks almost new) this guide will help you get the codes.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/ford-lincoln-mercury-obd1-1995-and-earlier-diagnostic-trouble-code-definition-and-retrieval

Please run down these guides and report back.

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Saturday, December 6th, 2014 AT 6:13 PM
Tiny
JAIME MENENDEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
"Check engine soon" light on for a week, in a red light; the engine in idle went overspeed, every time I attempt to start the engine it goes to overspeed.
Thanks,
Jaime
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 12:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
Hi Jaime,

Here are a couple possibilities.

Throttle Position Sensor

Idle Air Control Valve

Large Vacuum Leak

If you can it would help greatly if you could get codes, here's how.

To extract DTCs from the computer for diagnostic purposes, the Self Test connector is used.

1. Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature. If engine will not start or stalls after starting, proceed with next step.

2. Turn the key "OFF", then wait ten seconds.

3. Activate the self test by grounding the Self-Test Input (STI) connector.

4. Turn the ignition key "ON".

5. Record all codes received.

6. Turn ignition "OFF".

Data Link Connector (DLC)
(Located Underhood)
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 12:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
VGARRETTHUNT
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 FORD TAURUS
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 64,000 MILES
I was given a 93 ford taurus with approximately 64000 miles. One owner. Great condition.I have been driving since november. The check engine light has come on several times over hte past week, but goes off again once car has been cut off. When I looked up online it said maybe the coolant sensor is bad?
Is this something that I can buy and fix or do I need to take it to a shop.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 12:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Check engine light coming on
its many, many possibilities and need to have it checked for codes
codes should indicated trouble area and or the faulty sensor
two methods to get the codes
1- using a scanner tool
2- using an ohm meter
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 12:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLANEGLAZE@YAHOO.COM
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 12,525 MILES
Is there a way to find out the "Check Engine" light codes without using a tester? (I had a 1987 K-5 Blazer where I could jumper 2 pins on the test connector and it would give me the code by flashing the check engine light, I also had a Dodge that would do the same thing by turning the key on and off 3 times real fast.) So, is there a way to do this with the 1993 Ford Taurus SHO and where can I find a list of the codes? Any help would be appreciated.
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 12:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
PROCEDURES FOR READING FORD FLASH CODES 1. Start with the ignition off.

The engine should also be at normal operating temperature. 2. On pre-OBD

II models (prior to 1995/96), locate the diagnostic connector and

self-test pigtail connector (usually in the engine compartment). Connect

a jumper wire from the self-test pigtail connector to the signal return

terminal on the diagnostic conenctor. CAUTION: Refer to a shop manual for

the proper terminal location if you do not know which terminal to use.

Jumping the wrong terminal may damage the computer system! 3. Turn the

ignition switch ON (but do not start the engine). The Check Engine light

should now start to flash. Count the flashes to determine the code

number. Ford provides several types of codes: * KEY ON/ENGINE OFF CODES

-- These are the first codes displayed and only reveal malfunctions that

are currently present (hard faults). A Code 11 (flash, flash, pause)

indicates "system pass" (no problems found). If there are any problems,

the code numbers will be displayed in numerical sequence. Next comes a

separator code (a single flash preceeded and followed by a long 6 to 9

second pause). This will be followed by any other codes that are in the

computer's memory as a result of intermittent or previous faults. If none

are present, you'll see a code 11 again. * ENGINE RUNNING CODES -- These

are codes that are generated while the engine is running. To check for

running codes, start the engine while the system is still in the

diagnostic mode. To do the engine running test, the engine should be run

at fast idle (1500 rpm) for about 2 minutes so the oxygen sensor has time

to warm up. Turn the engine off, wait 10 seconds then restart it. The

first engine running code to appear is an engine identification code (20,

30 or 40), followed by a single pulse. Within 15 seconds after this, snap

the throttle wide open then allow it to return to idle (this is Ford's

"goose test"). If there are no faults, you will see a code 11 again. If

there are faults, the code numbers will be displayed in sequence.

ALTERNATIVE ANALOG VOLTMETER PROCEDURE Ford codes can also be read by

connecting an analog voltmeter to the diagnostic connector. The positive

voltmeter test lead should go to the battery, and the negative test lead

should be inserted into the proper diagnostic connector terminal. (NOTE:

the selt-test input connector must also be jumpted to the signal return

terminal on the diagnostic connector, too, the same as before). When the

ignition is turned ON, the needle on the voltmeter will jump to indicate

pulses just like flashes of the Check Engine light,. By counting the

sweeps of the voltmeter needle, you can determine the code numbers.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL When the self-test pigtail connector is jumped to the

self-test connector, fault codes can be read through the Message Center

on the instrument panel. Copyright 2000 Carley Automotive Software


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Pre_95_Ford_1.jpg

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-1
Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 12:59 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EVENTPHOTO100
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 FORD TAURUS
Electrical problem
1993 Ford Taurus 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

how do change the engine light bulb
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
On column shift models, disconnect transmission (PRNDL) selector cable.
Lower steering column.
Remove 4 screws securing instrument cluster.
Pull instrument cluster back, unplug connectors and disconnect speedometer cable (if equipped). Remove instrument cluster.
Replace the bulb
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
1956SISKIYOU
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 220,000 MILES
Failed smog check because check engine light did'nt illuminate at all during visual inspection. All other warning lights turn on when you turn the key. Is there a bulb that is burned out? How do you repair this?
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Hi there,

There should be a check light come on with the ignition, if it has a blown globe, you will have to drop out the dash cluster to access the globe holder. I will post info on cluster removal if you need this, I will have to look it up.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
POISONYVI
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 88,000 MILES
Car loses power, then check engine light comes on, then dies after 5 minutes. I have to release a lot of air out of the gas tank, and the inside of the car smells like gas, when this happens. After the release of air out of the gas tank if I let it sit for approx. 50 minutes it will start again and drive until it happens again. This occurs in one or combination of the following situations:1) when driving in the desert heat or 2) long distance or 3) up a mountain. There also is a burning smell of radiation fluid, when I open the hood and I have to refill every 4 weeks a little. The gage that tells how hot the motor is, is always at the A of the word NORMAL, more on the hot side than in the middle or cool, even now in winter. Broke down first on 12.000 feet mountain last summer. Ever since no one could fix it. Things that I have had fixed: Fuel pump, fuel filter, gasket(?) On top of gas tank, inside gas tank is clean, several old hoses replaced, coolant flush, new thermometer. Several mechanics have looked at it, but when they put it on the computer, everything is fine, also no overheating and check engine light, of course they do not drive it for 40 miles or more or uphill for long enough. When the check engine light comes on I am never close to an auto repair. Someone mentioned a water pump. Another oxygen filter, another rotting radiator, another catalytic converter.I would appreciate your help.
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi:
Having the radiator rodded out may help solve the problem of overheating, but I'm stummped on the check engine light. If the light comes on, there should be a code set in the computer. Have you tried having the computer scanned at a nationally recognized parts store? Many do it for free. I would try that.

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
POISONYVI
  • MEMBER
Hi Joe,
since the check engine light does not stay on all the time, can they scan the code also when it is off? Someone told me it only can be scanned when the light is on.
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
If the light was on, it should have saved a code. I would try it anyway. Many parts stores will do it for free. That is one reason I suggested it. At least there is no money out of pocket.
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
POISONYVI
  • MEMBER
Ok, I will do.
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TERNINK
  • MEMBER
  • 1992 FORD TAURUS
I have a ford taurus with aprox 130K miles. Recently my check engine light has been coming on intermitinly. I retrevied the codes and got code 326 and 327. I also am getting various different exhaust odors that come and go.

So far I check the EGR valve and it seems to move freely. I looked over the vacum lines and I didn't see any obvious cracks.

Does any one know where I should start?

Thanks
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:00 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Take the erg valve off, clean the port under it all the way to the throttle body, I use a piec of wire coathanger, then clear the code, if light stays out you ar good, if it comes back on, replace the EGR position sensor, this is the sensor with the 2 rubber hoses that come from the flex tube to the EGR. Be careful removing these hoses, they tend to get stuck on the flex!
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHASE01
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 48,118 MILES
When I cold start my car it refuses to stay on without me pushing on the gas pedal to keep it running. Once the engine warms up it can idol with the occasional low rpm at a stop which results in it dying on me. I gave it a full tune up, new spark plugs and everything. I would also get this exhaust type smell that seeps into the car through the vents and the check engine light would light up during this time but then goes off the moment the smell goes away. I keep checking for codes but it wont give me them. I want to fix it but I cant fix it when I dont know whats wrong with it. Please help
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:01 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi:
What I need you to do is have the computer scanned when the check engine light is on. Most parts stores will do it for free.

Let me know what trouble codes are found.

Joe
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Saturday, October 24th, 2020 AT 1:01 PM (Merged)

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