They are in distributors. Also check the ignition relay it may have a bad ground goind to it and not allowing power to the coils.
October, 10, 2012 AT 7:48 PM
Cool, I thought I was missing something here, so behind the distributor, last check I did was for voltage output on the crank, had around 600 milliamps, looks like a good reading, so off I go to distributors and check for bad ground on relay, thanks.
October, 10, 2012 AT 7:50 PM
Could be inside the dist too.
October, 10, 2012 AT 8:36 PM
Ok, I was able to see the driver side sensor, it read 1125 ohms, the passenger side was open circuit, fluctuated a bit then back, to open, and its the one thats worse to get to, havent checked anything else yet, should he be condemned, [ replaced yet or keep looking ] will it start with only one cam sensor working?
October, 10, 2012 AT 8:49 PM
It might but would require excessive cranking time. The fluctuation of readings could be due to the probes not getting correct contact and you should reconfirm the testing again.
October, 10, 2012 AT 9:06 PM
I found one issue for sure, the passenger side cam sensor lead is split, only one lead is attached, other is cut and looks been like that a while, could it have still been making conductive circuit being very close, the car started sometimes then wouldnt, I had probes in there good, ive worked meters long time, finally wouldnt start anymore, I imagine could also have other issues.
October, 10, 2012 AT 9:44 PM
Splice back the wire and test if it works. If you had checked for trouble codes, the cam sensor should have come up.
October, 10, 2012 AT 11:05 PM
Will do, im calling it a day, ill splice it up, and repost in morning, thanks a lot for all the help, maybe tomorrow get it running, have a good evening.