Intermittent starting issue

Okay yes, I disconnected the wire harness that goes to a two prong clutch switch. When it was not depressed or pushed in, I had my meter beeping that showed continuity? The original Hyundai shop manual says you should have continuity with wire detached. Is my switch bad? I replaced the clutch bumper stop so that is new. I am undoing the wire harness. Taking one lead of my meter on one terminal coming out of the clutch switch and putting the other lead on the other terminal coming out of clutch switch. Without it depressed. I set my meter on continuity and it beeped across the two leads to switch. I don't know what that means. Thought it meant I had continuity without it being pushed in or depressed?

Also my starter relay is under the drivers side or so I thought in the box. There is a flasher relay next ti it, I don't see any relay box on passenger side under dash or anywhere.

Okay, I retested the clutch switch you are correct. I get no continuity while open and with wire detached. With clutch pedal depressed I get about.5 then it goes down to zero ohms. I tested the wire (black and yellow) going to the clutch switch and on one of the two wires it is hot with 12, 3 volts dc, with key in start position.

Okay, I really need help here. This is driving me nuts. As I said it sometimes the starter starts then sometimes slow cranks, and sometimes does nothing (no sound when I turn the key to start). I am getting 11.6 volts at the end of my trigger wire.
The battery checked out 12, 6 volts and 770 cca. Two stores said battery was fine and alternator fine. Now, I put in another starter in the 1992 Hyundai Excel and it's doing the exact same thing as the starter I just removed. This is the third starter.
Please help. When I turn key and it does not crank, I still get voltage at end of trigger wire. I am thinking maybe the trigger wire is not as tight as it should be on that silver solenoid spade terminal on solenoid.
This starter is a bear to take out but since I was getting proper voltages, I thought it was the issue. Any ideas? If the trigger wire gets battery voltage then my clutch switch and ignition switch should be okay, right? This is so frustrating. I am about to junk this car. SOS!

Okay, I meant to say that when I turn key to start position, I am getting 11.6 volts at trigger wire (small wire) to spade terminal on solenoid that is with key on and it not cranking. Still 11.6 volts at trigger when I turn key on and no crack. I have 12 volts on the big battery cable that attaches to starter. I just made my own wire to attach from trigger terminal on solenoid to battery positive. The starter will turn all the time and crank if I bypass everything and just hot wire it like i'm using a remote starter switch.
Why I have 11.6 volts means it should crank and that all before it is good (ignition switch and clutch). Correct? I don't get this.

Okay, still starting problems. Maybe you could still be so kind to help. Yes, when I made my own long wire to hot wire car, I did take the small trigger wire off the starter solenoid when I hooked up my wire, the other end I do you make a new wire. What gauge and where do you attach it and what do you do with the other trigger wire that is already there?
Just touched to battery positive and it will always crank the starter that way.
The clutch pedal switch is a bear to get at, but I don't recall if I ohmed it out with a crank or no crank at the time. It had no continuity but when I pushed the switch in, it did.

I swapped out the starter relay under the driver side dash with another with same part #. It still wouldn't not crank. But intermittent battery and alternator 12.6 volts, and charging at 13.9 volts.

I jiggled the trigger wire going into the black relay box under driver dash and cleaned all the grounds I could find and it seems to start a lot of times. I only have it not crank with no sounds a few times. How do you hook up a new wire and what gauge wire? Also where do you run it to and what do you do with the old trigger wire? Explain in simple terms. I am sorry to bother you but want to get this resolved so I don't get stranded somewhere. Battery and clutch check out fine. I have a new extra ignition switch, could that or the clutch switch still be the problem? I need to do voltage drops. 11.6 is the voltage on trigger wire detached from solenoid when engine will not crank. When I bypass the starter is cranks every time. Weird.
Should I test the clutch switch again when it wont crank? Thanks

Finally the car is fixed. Took me ten minutes to put in a new ignition switch. The starter tested good and so did clutch switch so not much else to replace. Voila! Starts every time, Amen. Thank you for all your help! I will not bother you until the next breakdown! Glad this is finally starting on every key turn!