Sluggish start up / choking

Tiny
STEVEAL01
  • 1992 HONDA ACCORD
  • 407,800 MILES

When I start up my car either early morning or after car has enough time to cool down, the enging seems to be choking (feels like too much fuel) for about approx. 10-15 seconds, very low idle like it's want sto shut off. Then after that priod idles to normal and functions like normal. I had resently replaced the intake manifold gasket because the coolant passage portion of the filter keeps blowing out. Replaced the throttle body base gasket but did not resolve issue. Checked fuel and air lines to throttle body by spraying TB cleaner over but no leaks. Cannot find what could be casuing issue. Could it be the intake gasket again, but not loosing any coolant. Puzzled.

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Sunday, April 1st, 2012 AT 3:10 AM

23 Replies

Tiny
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Are you still having coolant losses issues?
Get a pressure test to check for a bad head gasket.
Have the compression test to determine engine cylinder condition.
If the MIL is indicating, get the trouble code. If no codes are present and above conditions/test are good, have the valve clearances checked/adjusted.

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Sunday, April 1st, 2012 AT 5:43 AM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
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Not loosing any coolant or overflowing. There are no codes popping up on the ECU. But I do notice that I can smell fuel fumes while this sputtering is happening. Then once car runs normal then the smell goes away. This seemed to start heppening when the intake manifold gasket was replaced.

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Monday, April 2nd, 2012 AT 1:31 AM
Tiny
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When engine misfires, you would smell fuel fumes. What you are experiencing is misfiring and if it is a intake manifild gasket problem, the idling speed would more likely to increase, seldom have sputtering issues.

Have you checked the spark plug and wires? Get an ohmmeter to test the spark plug wire resistances, they should be less than 25 k ohms and not infinity.

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Monday, April 2nd, 2012 AT 1:53 PM
Tiny
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Discovered the problem. The TPS sensor was off by 2 ohms (was at 4.8 ohms). Re-adjusted to 5.0 ohms (oem spec)+ I decided to completely clean the throttle body by removing completely from intake manifold. Fired right up with no hesitation. Fired up again when I left to work the following morning again with no problems (bogging and such). Figured it was related to throttlebody or intake due to the simptoms not being a constant issue while car was running and not just at start up.

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Friday, April 13th, 2012 AT 1:30 PM
Tiny
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The dirty throttle body was the cause.

Adjustment of the TPS is by using volts. 0.5 volts at fully closed and 4.5 volts at fully opened open throttle

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Friday, April 13th, 2012 AT 8:30 PM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
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I was not sure if it was being dirty, I think mainly the TPS adjustment being slightly off. Funny that the smallest and the impossible things could cause such problems. Thank you for your help.

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Saturday, April 14th, 2012 AT 7:04 AM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
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We'll she has started up again and reacted the same way it has before. I referred to your original responce that it could have been possible the head gasket so I decided to remove and it looks like it has been seeping anti through the cylinders 3 & 4. So, while I was at it, I had the head resurfaced and had a broken bolt (exhaust) replaced. Now assembled and system bled, now instantly overheats and slight misfire. Timing checked at 15 degrees. I replaced a temp sensor, new plugs gapped at.044 but still no difference. This new issue seemed to have happened after the head was re-suraced. Could this be the problem.

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Tuesday, May 1st, 2012 AT 1:49 PM
Tiny
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There are people who say that refacing the cylinder head would cause overheating but I do not see the relationship.

Did you bleed the system correctly?
Are the cooling fans working?
Are you still getting coolant losses issues?
Did you check the valve clearances?

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Tuesday, May 1st, 2012 AT 3:27 PM
Tiny
STEVEAL01
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-system has been bled, no bubbles just pure coolant flowed.
-fans are not engaging. I think reason it that one the upper hose is warrming to the touch when the lower is cool. Like it's not flowing.
-i did not see any coolant loss, checked the oil again jsut in case and clean.
-i have not checked the valve clearances. I will check on that.

What does happen- when turn key to on position, the temp indi. Travels like to normal temp area, but when fires up travels up to hot line (just below)and I shut down. When I turn key to on position again, it again goes to normal position. Knocking myself on this one, so I had to stop to get a break.

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Tuesday, May 1st, 2012 AT 5:10 PM
Tiny
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Check the ground circuit connections, especially those at thermostat housing and behind headlights. I believe the engine is not overheating but rather the temperature gauge is not registering correctly. Usually you need about 20 minutes of running time after starting from cold for the fans to start engaging.

If the upper hose is hot with lower hose cool after more than 10 minutes, the thermostat is stuck.

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Tuesday, May 1st, 2012 AT 8:17 PM
Tiny
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I will have to check the ground + I had installed a new T. Stat. Wondering, is it possible to install the the headgasket incorrectly?

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Wednesday, May 2nd, 2012 AT 3:50 AM
Tiny
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No, it is not possible. If it is installed incorrectly, you would have leakages and oil would not be getting to the head.

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Wednesday, May 2nd, 2012 AT 3:03 PM
Tiny
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Ok I gone through the system and there are no leaks. Checked to see if coolant was traveling through the t. Stat (and it is now that iit seems the hose is now warming up. Did notice that when I step on the gas, is see small amounts of small smoke (like at start up) when the gas is let off. Would it be possible that the since I had the head plained that this could be the problem? I can't even explain it. Also my fans don't kick in. I did a jump test on the rear temp sensor plug and it kicks (in but not when plugged), does nothing on the mid temp sensor. Not sure if because not reached temperature to kick on. Also noticed when car ran for about 5 min. And no fans and gauge few click below white hot line that the heater in the car was not even hot (even thought I installed a new heater core).

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Friday, May 4th, 2012 AT 2:01 AM
Tiny
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UPDATE: Found the temperature issue. A plug was torn off and I wired it back wrong. Fans still only work when jumped (the ECT Switch B : runs fans when ignition if off, and I think the rear TW sensor : runs fans when key is turned to the on position). Fans will not kick in when temperature rises on temperature. Now all of a sudden I got a code 6 on the ECU. Does this mean the rear TW switch went out? Also when I run the car and manually run the fans, the temp still remains high.

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Friday, May 4th, 2012 AT 4:40 AM
Tiny
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5 minutes is too short a time for the heater to work correctly. The fan would only come on after more than 20 minutes of running time.

Code 6 is a fault with the ECT, the one next to the temperature sending unit, just below the distributor. Check the wiring and connector, hope you have not reversedly install the front fan switch and the ECT. That can result in the fans running with ignition off.

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Friday, May 4th, 2012 AT 4:26 PM
Tiny
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We'll, ran the car about 20 min and no fans. Had replaced 3 sensors (on thermostat housing, on head and the temp sending unit & thermostat). No more code 6 but car is still overheating. No Leaks & loosing any fluids. No water in the oil. 1 sensor left but that is for the condensor (i did not chnage that because my a/c is not working right now). Radiator hose from front of housing to upper radiator is very very hot and the hose from T.S. Bell housing to bottom of radiator is not so hot(warm). I will have to check that T. Stat(even thought it's new) to see waht it does but I am now stumpped. Tested fan plugs(t. Stat housing) and both fans engage when key is turned to on, the fron plug by the front upper hose to housing 1 fan engages when key is at off position.

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Sunday, May 6th, 2012 AT 6:08 PM
Tiny
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Yup, seems the thermostat is not functioning correctly. Others seems to be working correctly from the test you have performed.

AC does not control the fans when the temperature heats up.

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Sunday, May 6th, 2012 AT 9:10 PM
Tiny
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I will try to put on my other thermostat. I had tested that one and it does open when boiled in water like it should. But with that one, I had similar issues, but will try it anyways. Thank you and I will let you know how it goes.

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Monday, May 7th, 2012 AT 12:58 AM
Tiny
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Ok, so I changed the thermostat and same problem, no change. But I do notice that (example: when the fan kicks in, the engine kind of drags a little-power draw), it sounds like it's doing that but no fans. I opened the rad cap and does no seem like there is any flow, from what I can tell. I see no fluid from weep holes on water pump (no fluid loss) and can't seem to hear any whining from there either, but could not mean that the water pump went out. While car running, I manually kicked the fans on to see if the car would cool down and nothing, remained high. There is pressure on both hoses but only hot on upper(front rad hose). Heck i've just about changed everything else with no results (that has to do with the cooling) and just wonder if it just might be the water pump. It's only about a year old but do put quite a but of miles on her daily(110 daily).

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Monday, May 7th, 2012 AT 2:06 AM
Tiny
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I believe you are not experiencing overheating but rather the gauge is not accurate. Did you check the ground circuit connections, especially the ones behind the headlights, attached to inner wheelhouse panel?

When fans kick in, does it stop running after a short while?

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Monday, May 7th, 2012 AT 1:46 PM

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