1992 honda accord work done: rebuilt head, complete headgasket set replaced(last week), thermostat, temp sensors, fan sensors(last month), timing belt & water pump(last year), upper/lower rad hoses, radiator(May). I started experiencing the temp rising to half way to almost 3/4 mark when stopped in traffic or sometimes red lights. Fans are kicking on. Took to shop during occurance and shop used temo gun and read max 205 degrees then fans kicked on when they are suppose to(gauge was 1/2 way). Other than thinking either temp sensor, thermostat or rad cap went bad or defective, could there be any other reasons for this? The shop stated usually when the cars overheat, the temp gauge usually goes bad and gives bad reading after that initial overheat. Not sure if this is true or not. They state don't worry about it unless it goes to red. Any suggestions?
EITHER YOUR READINGS WILL CHANGE OR THEY WON'T---IT'S AN EZ "PEACE OF MIND" ITEM.......BEFORE YOU START TO WORRY ABOUT NOTHING (WE HOPE)....THE GAUGE ITSELF, I CAN'T HELP WITH, I'D BANK ON THE SENDER BEING DAMAGED BY THE OVERHEAT 1ST
IF IT REMAINS THE SAME.....YOU HAVE A NEW PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE PART NOW!
COULD IT BE THAT YOU HAVE AN INTERMITTENT WORKING RELAY FOR YOUR COOLING FANS?....I HAVE SEEN A CAR WITH SOME BOTCHED WIRING...THEIR FAN WAS SPINNING BACKWARDS, THE FINS WERE INEFFICIENT IN THAT DIRECTION.....IT STAYED RELATIVELY COOL WITH THE WIND BLOWING INTO THE RADIATOR WHILE DRIVING
LET ME KNOW IF YOU GOTTA BUY SOMETHING EXPENSIVE--I MAY BE ABLE TO AID YOU IN GETTING IT FOR LESS, THAN JUST WALKING IN AND PURCHASING IT
August, 11, 2012 AT 6:26 AM
This sender was replaced only last month. And the fans are running the correct direction witht the air flow towards block. Sender could possible be defect or bad. Will replace since still under warranty. Will let you know outcome.
August, 11, 2012 AT 8:16 AM
If turning the A/C on and off makes the gauge moe, check the ground circuit connection. The gauge ground circuit is at driver side behind the headlights. Ensure engine to chassis grounding at engine mount of timing belt is good.
August, 11, 2012 AT 5:57 PM
Running the a/c does not change the reading on the gauge. I will check the grounds on the side wall just behind the headlightts and the valve cover and p/s bracket.
September, 1, 2012 AT 2:32 AM
Something different now happening. Temp gauge going lightly higher when in traffic and fans kicked on like normal then temp goes to normal. I decided to check the reservoir, it was filled to the top and had slightly overflowed so now I have too much coolant pressure in the system and forcing into it. The new hoses are tight as I canot sqeeze by hand. System had been bled andwith this problem, could this be another head gasket issue? Head had been rebuilt andsurfaced and now I wonder if the block surface is slightly warpped. Any advise. I have been pulling this head out a few times and it's becoming a pain.
September, 1, 2012 AT 12:06 PM
When engine cools down, remove the radiator cap and cehck coolant. If you have air in system it is a leak with the head gasket but the head should not be the cause. Most likely the block surface is warped. The ridge between the cylinder 2 and 3 are usually ones causing the problem.
If the ridge around the cylinders are dark colored, which usually is the case, you need to reface the block. For minimal warpage I usually use a grinding stone to level the surface, which works but you must know what you are doing before attempting this. You have to be careful when sealing up holes that can allow grinding residue from getting to the lubrication system.
September, 1, 2012 AT 5:38 PM
That does make sense because everytime I removed the head. 2&3 portion of the gasket were always failing even after the head resurfaced. This does help alot. I will consider having shop surface so I can assure the entire surface is even. Thanks for your guidence.
September, 1, 2012 AT 5:52 PM
You are welcome.
Btw when too much is taken off the head and block surfaces, you have other complications. The compression would increase but the valve timing would be retarded and the distributor has to be turned further forward to advance the ignition timing, failing which you would have poor performance issues.
The timing belt can be off up to 1/2 a tooth which you can't compensate except with adjustable cam pulley or an offset key which you cannot buy anywhere. I normally fabricate them myself.
September, 1, 2012 AT 6:01 PM
Yea, I am getting nervouse about that because now my valve clearance will be more limited than before. Too bad there are no spacers to make up this difference, unless the performance Headgaskets are more thicker than the Std. Felpro MLS to make up that loss. Hhmmmm.
September, 1, 2012 AT 6:19 PM
Valve clearances are not the problem as there would be sufficient clearance between valve and piston. Just make sure the indents on the valves are cleared of carbon build-up.
Not sure if performance gaskets are thicker but you can always ask around. Let me know so that I have another option when required. Over here we don't have much info on performance parts.