I believe I may need a new transmission

Tiny
JACKFLOGANJR
  • 1992 BUICK CENTURY
  • 93,000 MILES

I believe I may need a new transmission. I was driving home and while making a right turn I hit a very small patch of ice. Not much ice but enough that the front tires slipped for about 1-2 second (literally 1-2 second). After that the engine reved up but I was getting no power to the wheels. I drifted a bit and then got a little power to the wheels but not much. Once I pulled over I tried to take off again in Drive, 1st, & 2nd gears and got nothing. Even reverse didn't work. I checked the fluid and it was about a half quart low. I added fluid and still got nothing. The fluid was a pinch on the dark side but didn't smell burned. I let the car sit overnight until I could get a tow home. When the tow truck arrived I tried again but still have nothing in 1st, 2nd or Drive. However, I do have very limited reverse.

I just bought this car a few months ago. It's literally a one owner cream puff. Absolutely no rust whatsoever, beautiful paint and spotless inside and out. I know the 81 year old lady who owned it and have all service records from the day she bought it and even have the window sticker and the original documentation from the dealership where she bought it. The 6 cylinder engine starts & runs fantastic.

My question is. Can I replace the transmission myself? I'm pretty savy in the garage and have performed tons of work including swamping engines and tranny's in other cars BUT never a front wheel drive vehicle. I have a compressor, snap-on air tools and a wide variety of other tools. Is this a job that a decent "home mechanic" can do?

Are there any special tools I would need to rent or buy? What instruction manual would you recommend?

Thanks for any advice you may have.

Jack Logan

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Thursday, December 27th, 2012 AT 1:48 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
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With the tools you have, it should not be a problem replacing the transmission but before you start on it, I would suggest performing some diagnostic testing first, just to confirm that the transmission is faulty.

Which engine and transmission do you have?

.

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Thursday, December 27th, 2012 AT 2:19 PM
Tiny
JACKFLOGANJR
  • MEMBER

Engine is the 3.3L V6

Tranny is automatic. I'm not sure if it the 3speed or 4speed with overdrive. How would I determine that? The shifter has RND12. I don't see anything referencing overdrive. Can I look at the tranny and tell which it is?

The VIN is 1G4AG54N1N6453787 if that helps?

Thanks,
Jack

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Thursday, December 27th, 2012 AT 2:34 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Refer to diagram for identification.
Let me know the code so I can get the necessary information for you.

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Thursday, December 27th, 2012 AT 2:46 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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ALL GEARS INOPERATIVE

Check oil level and pressure, drive link, manual linkage, input shaft, reaction carrier, differential and torque converter.

This condition may also be caused by the thermal element moving forward, because a retaining clip has fallen out. The clip may be located in the bottom oil pan.

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Thursday, December 27th, 2012 AT 2:48 PM
Tiny
JACKFLOGANJR
  • MEMBER

The codes I can see are:

2BYC CLE5 (612BYCJCLE5)

There is another blue tage on top that has a large "BY" or it.

Does this help?

Thanks,
Jack

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Thursday, December 27th, 2012 AT 3:18 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Here are the procedures.

3T40 TRANSAXLE
Removal
1. Disconnect and shield negative battery cable. Remove air cleaner. Remove bolt securing transaxle throttle valve cable to transaxle. Remove shift cable and bracket from transaxle. Disconnect electrical connectors as necessary.

2. Disconnect oil cooler lines from transaxle. Plug ends of lines. Remove all transaxle-to-engine bolts except bolt nearest starter motor (leave this bolt loosely installed). Support engine from top. Raise and support vehicle on hoist. Remove left front wheel. Remove left engine splash shield. Remove pinch bolt from ball left ball joint. Disconnect ball joint from left control arm. If steering intermediate shaft is not disconnected from steering gear stub shaft as described in next step, these components could be damaged, possibly resulting in loss of steering
control.

3. Remove pinch bolt securing steering intermediate shaft to steering gear stub shaft. Remove stabilizer bar. Center-punch the 2 spot welds securing left crossmember to rear crossmember. Left crossmember is the 90-degree frame piece that acts as the left frame and front crossmember. See Fig. 1. Drill out spot welds using 7/16" drill bit.

4. Remove bolt securing left end of steering rack to rear crossmember. Remove 4 bolts securing left crossmember to right frame. Using jack stand, support left crossmember from bottom. Remove 2 bolts securing left crossmember to body.

5. Remove 2 nuts securing left transaxle mount to left crossmember. Remove left crossmember and jack stand. Remove starter and torque converter shields. Remove 3 flexplate-to-converter bolts. Remove 2 transaxle extension bolts from engine-to-transaxle bracket.

6. Remove rear transaxle mount bracket assembly (it may be necessary to raise transaxle). Using transaxle jack, support transaxle from bottom. Remove 2 braces from right end of transaxle. Remove left drive axle.

7. Remove remaining transaxle-to-engine bolt near starter. Remove transaxle and right drive axle as an assembly.

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Thursday, December 27th, 2012 AT 3:30 PM
Tiny
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Sorry I missed out this.

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Thursday, December 27th, 2012 AT 3:31 PM
Tiny
JACKFLOGANJR
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Thanks for all the help. Definitely a big job but I think I'll go for it. I'm assuming you know that I don't have a lift and will be supporting the car with stands?

Thanks again!

Jack Logan

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Thursday, December 27th, 2012 AT 3:37 PM
Tiny
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Stands should be sufficient but ensure it has sufficient height for the transmission to come out from under vehicle.

We as professionals too have to do with stands at times when hoist are filled up.

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Thursday, December 27th, 2012 AT 3:45 PM

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