Where Is IOD Fuse

Look at the rear of the under-hood fuse box. As I recall, it may be in a yellow pull handle.

I'm not aware of IOD fuse on this vehicle. I didn't see it in your fuse box?

Hi caradiodoc, didn't mean to butt in, didn't see you. MOD didn't show an underhood fuse box? Have a good day.

Hi JDL.

The symptoms don't match exactly but there was a problem in the '92 models with the Body Computer. It would lock up due to voltage spikes resulting in loss of dash lights, gauges, chime, interior lights, and I think door locks. I suppose that could affect a late production '91 model, but I'd be real surprised if that problem wasn't taken care of a long time ago. The computer could be reset by disconnecting the negative battery cable for half a minute, but the problem typically reappeared within 5,000 miles.

The permanent fix was to replace the Body Computer with one that was less susceptible to voltage spikes, and to replace all relays that didn't have spike suppression built in. There could be up to 12 of those relays but I usually found only four to six. They are located by the fuses inside the van, under the steering column, and they have part numbers that end with a "1001". I think you have to remove the "knee blocker" to get to them. That's the thick panel under the steering column.

I don't know if Body Computers were used yet in '91. If it was, once that knee blocker is removed, the computer can just barely be seen slid in to the right and under the radio. It slides out to the left toward the steering column after removing one or two screws.

If there's no IOD fuse in the fuse box under the hood, (or if there are no plug-in fuses under the hood), look for a smaller cable leaving the battery positive post. It will have a bullet-type connector about a foot away from the battery. That is disconnected when the vehicle is going to be stored for more than three weeks. It removes voltage to all of the computers to prevent their memory circuits from draining the battery. Many functions will not work, but the engine will start and run and some features such as power windows will work while the engine is running. The delivery truck driver can operate the vehicle safely without having to plug that cable in.

"I knocked into the lower part of fuse box"

Do you mean you looked in the fuse box or you banged it? If moving it in some way made something start working you know there's a connection problem. It's impossible to say where that connection is without being right there to diagnose it. I'd start by unbolting the fuse box then looking on the back side. There will be a bunch of brass strips connecting many fuses together and each strip will have a wire feeding them. Look for loose wires or a loose rivet connecting multiple strips. If something loose isn't real obvious, wiggle wires until things start working and / or you see tiny sparks or arcing. Also look for a small black spot indicating arcing was taking place. If you see a spot like that you might get away with squeezing a crimped connection tighter, otherwise soldering the bad connection should solve it.

Sorry. My internet service was out for an entire day, ... Again!

Just to put your mind at ease, you can't get shocked from the car itself because it runs on 12 volts. That's not enough to feel. What you CAN feel is if something with voltage touches a metal part that is grounded to the body. That can make a big spark and heat. Also, you can feel a tickle if you touch anything tied to a coil when the voltage is removed. That creates a voltage spike, the same way an ignition coil works but sometimes that spike is also too small to feel. Those coils of wire are in relays and motors.

I'd be looking behind that fuse box to see what's going on. It sounds like there's a loose connection. Watch whatever goes dead while you move wires and push on those brass strips. Also watch for little sparks. Those will occur at the location of an intermittent connection