Why does my car stall and not restart after it has warmed up?

TINKERGIRL

MEMBER
1990 CHEVROLET LUMINA
68,000 MILES

Last week my car stalled on me and wouldn't restart. We replaced the ECM and this seemed to fix the problem. Next day car did the same thing. It will fire right up and run beautifully until it warms up and then stalls and won't restart until its cool again. We have ran a fuel pressure test=normal. We replaced the fuel filter, ICM and coil packs. We then replaced the Throttle position sensor and the crankshaft position sensor. Also changed the plugs and wires. Car fired right up again and ran ok until it warmed up and the same thing again. Stalls and won't restart. The car is not throwing any trouble codes. We also checked the gas to see if it was bad but it looks clean and seems to burn normal. I am at a loss. Please

10 Replies

JDL

MECHANIC
16,098 POSTS

You have to do testing when the problem occurs, Did you? When it stalls, visually check for spark at the spark plugs. If spark everywhere, then use a gage and check fuel pressure. What is the fuel pressure spec?

When it stalls, can you communicate with computer? There should be at least one code, even if it doesn't mean much. If something is causing a fault at the computer, you need to fix that first, or it may damage a new computer.

The cts could cause a temp related issue, but, without something to go on, we are just throwing parts at it.

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Monday, October 17th, 2011 AT 3:54 PM

TINKERGIRL

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17 POSTS

It ended up being 2 bad fuel injectors! If its your fuel injectors it will not throw a trouble code to the computer.

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Wednesday, October 19th, 2011 AT 5:31 PM

TINKERGIRL

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17 POSTS

PLEASE HELP!
Okay so we changed out the fuel rail and injectors from a car at the junk yard. All injectors read between 12 and 12.3 ohms. Car started making a horrible knocking noise and acting like it was miss firing. It sounded like something was knocking around the intake. So we decided to take the intake off and make sure nothing had accidentally fallen in one of the hols for the injectors. We power washed both the intake and the plenum cleaning it inside and out. Made sure there was no debris under it. Put in new gaskets of course, new coolant temp sensor, thermostat, oxygen sensor, new plugs, wires were good quality and about 1 yr old, and new crank sensor. Still knocking and running horrible. Decided to put the old fuel rail back on and replace the 2 bad injectors. It is running better but still knocking. Any ideas?

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Monday, October 31st, 2011 AT 2:04 PM

JDL

MECHANIC
16,098 POSTS

The knocking isn't oil related? Do a cylinder compression test.

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Wednesday, November 16th, 2011 AT 7:05 PM

TINKERGIRL

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No the knocking wasn't oil related. Something had fallen into the firing chamber. While trying to diagnose where the knocking was coming from it suddenly stopped. Car was running pretty bad so we checked compression and the new spark plugs. Compression was fine, however the plugs in the #'s 1&2 firing chamber where beat up a little and the plug was damaged. Changed these out and voila the car is running fine! It has been more than 2 weeks now and I haven't had any problems with it.

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Friday, November 18th, 2011 AT 2:20 PM

JDL