1989 Plymouth Voyager Dieing

Tiny
SHIRLEYS
  • MEMBER
  • 1989 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER
  • 111,000 MILES
I have a 1989 plymouth voyager turbo that dies when im driving it in hot weather it seems like its getting vapor locked do these types of veichles have this problem and hoe can I somehow fix it ! Thank You !
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Wednesday, June 5th, 2013 AT 6:48 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
I'm guessing you have a 2.5L engine. If so, the ignition pickup coil is a common failure item. They don't usually start working again when they cool down but they can. The clue is you won't have spark when it acts up, AND there won't be fuel spraying from the injectors.
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Wednesday, June 5th, 2013 AT 7:59 PM
Tiny
SHIRLEYS
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Yes its the 2.5 turbo ! I replaced the ignition pick up coil about 6 months ago and since then its got really hot once and when it did, it blew the hose that went from the turbo to the block, could that of caused it to go out again? Thank You !
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Saturday, June 8th, 2013 AT 11:57 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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The only other thing I can suggest is a plugged pickup screen in the gas tank. My daily driver is a rusty trusty '88 Grand Caravan. This happened to mine many years ago and it only acted up on the two hottest days of summer, then not again until six months later. It will mainly cause stalling when the largest volume of fuel is being pumped, which is during coasting. At highway speeds it will run fine. I don't know why the outside temperature plays such a big role but I'm starting to see the same thing now. Mine also acts up when I'm dragging around a really huge tandem axle enclosed trailer.

The way I figured it out this time is I've been driving around with a fuel pressure gauge hooked to my radio antenna so I can watch what happens when the problem occurs. My 3.0L runs a much higher fuel pressure than the 2.5L. Normal is around 45 to 50 psi. The pressure should go up when accelerating or pulling a heavy load. Mine drops to as low as 20 psi and the engine still runs. I can feel it about to quit when it hits 15 psi.

The fuel supply system is not monitored by the Engine Computer so it won't set any diagnostic fault codes. If you're losing spark, there should be a code related to the cause. Have you checked for codes yet? Chrysler makes that real easy. Cycle the ignition switch three times from "off" to "run" within five seconds without cranking the engine, leave it in the "run" position, then watch the Check Engine light. Count the number of flashes. That's the first digit of the code. After a short pause count the flashes to get the second digit. After a longer pause the next code will flash the same way if there is one. The last code will be 55 which just means "end of message".
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Sunday, June 9th, 2013 AT 1:29 AM
Tiny
SHIRLEYS
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OK, I did the codes and they were 12 54 45 55 can you please tell me what that means ! Thank You very much !
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Tuesday, June 11th, 2013 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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http://www.2carpros.com/articles/retrieve-trouble-codes-for-chrysler-dodge-plymouth-odb1-1995-and-earlier-car-mini-van-and-light-trucks

54 - camshaft reference circuit not detected
45 - turbo boost limit exceeded-map sensor detects over-boost

Codes 12 and 55 can be ignored. 12 means the battery was recently disconnected. 55 just means "end of message".
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Tuesday, June 11th, 2013 AT 10:13 PM
Tiny
SHIRLEYS
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Can you break it down for me please, what should I do to fix it ! Thank you !
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Tuesday, June 11th, 2013 AT 10:21 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
54 refers to a missing signal from the Hall Effect pickup assembly in the distributor. That would agree with the stalling. First check the electrical connector terminals for signs of corrosion. If it looks okay, replace the sensor again.

I can't really help with the code 45 accept to point out the MAP sensor measures intake manifold vacuum, but with a turbocharger the manifold will go into pressure too. The MAP sensor is a different part number and is calibrated to measure vacuum and pressure. Using a standard MAP sensor will set a fault code but I'm not sure if will be 45.
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Tuesday, June 11th, 2013 AT 10:57 PM

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