1989 Ford Festiva Idles fine bogs on acceleration

Tiny
DANNYBOY524
  • MEMBER
  • 1989 FORD FESTIVA
  • AUTOMATIC
I purchased a 89 Ford Festiva L. The fuel pump, fuel filter, Dist. Cap, rotor ignition coil, plug wires and the exhaust from the manifold back have been replaced new. It starts, runs and idles fine, after a couple good cranks. However, when I press the accelerator down it bogs, spits, sputters and idles extremely rough with no power, until I release the accelerator, then it once again returns to a nice idle. In doing my own hit and miss research, I found out there is one check engine light code #81. I have since replaced the MAF sensor, O2 sensor. After installing the MAF I reconnected the MAF connector and start the car it idles for a second, then dies. If I unplug the MAF cable and start it runs as before, no change in accelerator issue. The MAF plug was not an issue prior to change. Following the manual I checked the power relay it was ok, however I found the fuel pump relay as faulty, I replaced it and still the same issue. I did however, find out the previous owner ran a switched 12v lead directly to the Grn/Y wire on the fuel pump connector, so the fuel pump runs continuously when the key is in the on position. The Grn/Y wire runs back to the fuel pump, I assume it gives it power. Eliminated the direct switched 12v lead the previous owner installed and I am running with the relay as intended, when I check voltage at the fuel pump plug I only get a cranking voltage of 8-9 volts. Pump does not turn on. Of course when I reconnect the switched 12v lead it works? I can operate the pump as the previous owner has rigged up. I am still perplexed about the bogging issue. Not sure if it is a fuel pressure issue I bought a gauge) or a timing issue. I am using the buy the component and see if it works process, It is getting expensive. I need help in narrowing this a little further and in the right direction. Any advice would help.
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Thursday, May 22nd, 2014 AT 6:37 PM

43 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
The idea of running a toggle to operate the fuel pump isn't the issue here, even though it isn't a safe way to do it.

A code 81 deals with the Secondary Air Injection Diverter Solenoid failure. The solenoid valve located on the back side of the passenger side wheel well is not functional. It could be due to bad wiring, bad connections, missing or defective solenoid valve. Check the solenoid valve for +12 volts at the Red wire. There should also be a Lt Green/Black wire to switch from +12 volts to 1 volt or less. The computer controls the valve by providing a ground path on the LT Green/Black wire for the solenoid valve.

With the with the ignition on, look for 12 volts on the red wire on the solenoid connector. No 12 volts and you have wiring problems. Also, by putting the computer into self test mode, you will cause the solenoid valve to toggle. If you listen carefully, you may hear it change.
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Thursday, May 22nd, 2014 AT 6:52 PM
Tiny
DANNYBOY524
  • MEMBER
Hey thank you for the quick response. I am unable to locate anything on the passenger side. All components other than the MAF are located on the left side. There are no electrical connections that I can see. Is it possible I misunderstood you?
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Thursday, May 22nd, 2014 AT 7:29 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Sorry, my memory may be going on an 89, It could be the left side.
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Friday, May 23rd, 2014 AT 4:49 AM
Tiny
DANNYBOY524
  • MEMBER
Thank you again. I will check this evening and let you know how that worked. By the way how do you put the computer into self test mode? In looking for resolution to my issue, this solenoid could potentially be my issue for the bogging?
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Friday, May 23rd, 2014 AT 7:22 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
You need to locate the single wire plug next to the master cylinder, it should just be dangling there next to another plug that isn't connected to anything. Place a jumper wire between that single plug and a good ground. Now just go turn the key to ACC, and watch the check engine light. It will flash codes which are two digit numbers. Count the flashes, then there will be a brief delay, then it will flash a second number. For example, one flash, a pause, and then two flashes would be a code 12.
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Friday, May 23rd, 2014 AT 8:52 AM
Tiny
DANNYBOY524
  • MEMBER
Oh yeah, that! Yes, that is how I came up with the Code # 81. I just cannot for the life of me figure out what it was. I assume I will have to reset the trouble code once I resolve my issue? I think it said disconnect -cable from batt. And hold the brake pedal down for an allotted time? Well I hope your suggestion either resolves my issue or puts me on the right path.
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Friday, May 23rd, 2014 AT 9:13 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I hope so. Let me know what you find.
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Friday, May 23rd, 2014 AT 9:36 AM
Tiny
DANNYBOY524
  • MEMBER
Well I found what appears to be the SAIDS. There are 2 vacuum lines attached. One goes to the top of the intake and the other to the top of the Canister. The plug has 2 wires one, red with silver stripe and the other is yellow with a black stripe. They are to small to get a volt meter lead into to read voltage. I put the into test mode and do not hear anything.
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Friday, May 23rd, 2014 AT 4:23 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Something is telling me that is the problem, but I can't be sure without checking for power to it.
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Saturday, May 24th, 2014 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
DANNYBOY524
  • MEMBER
I will check the voltage, I am not sure which one is the power. I will find something to wedge in there to read the voltage and let you know tomorrow.
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Saturday, May 24th, 2014 AT 6:39 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Sounds good. Let me know.
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Saturday, May 24th, 2014 AT 6:48 PM
Tiny
DANNYBOY524
  • MEMBER
With the key in the on position there is 11 volts to the solenoid.
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Tuesday, May 27th, 2014 AT 4:28 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Is that with the key on and engine off?
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Tuesday, May 27th, 2014 AT 6:07 PM
Tiny
DANNYBOY524
  • MEMBER
Yes, My apologies
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Tuesday, May 27th, 2014 AT 6:17 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
My god. No need for apologies. Lol

Start the engine and throttle it to see how the voltage changes. It should drop when you hit the gas.
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Tuesday, May 27th, 2014 AT 6:52 PM
Tiny
DANNYBOY524
  • MEMBER
LOL. Nope, Start the car and give it gas, it goes to 13v and stays there when I hit the pedal.
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Tuesday, May 27th, 2014 AT 7:06 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
That should drop to near 1 volt. Otherwise the solenoid won't function.
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Wednesday, May 28th, 2014 AT 5:31 AM
Tiny
DANNYBOY524
  • MEMBER
With that being said, am I now looking at a wiring issue?
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Wednesday, May 28th, 2014 AT 7:01 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I don't think the wiring is the problem. Now I question the ECM. I think we need to determine which wires from the ECM go to the solenoid and check to see if the power is correct at the ECM. The ECM is what provides the ground pathway to the solenoid.
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Wednesday, May 28th, 2014 AT 8:49 AM
Tiny
DANNYBOY524
  • MEMBER
I have been suspect of the ECM for multiple issues. I.E. Fuel pump not shutting off, MAF plug connector is not reading voltage, etc.

I have a wire schematic for the car.I can trace them back, it is only two wires. So will I now check the power at the plug on the ECM?
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Wednesday, May 28th, 2014 AT 9:23 AM

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