WHAT WILL CAUSE ENGINE TO JUST SHUT DOWN?

  • Tiny
  • edwardrichardson
  • 1989 Ford Crown Victoria
  • 20,600 miles

Engine starts. Then shuts down after about 2 minutes. It does not stutter, chug or lose rpms, it just shuts off just like if you turned off the key. Would a oil pressure sensor be able to do this? We have tested numerous sensors. Would any of the EGR related sensors be able to cause this? I thought that if there was a failure in the EGR related circuits that the PCM would just throw a code and go to open loop and stay running. My son and I are at our wits end with this.

Monday, October 15th, 2012 AT 12:02 AM

7 Answers

  • Tiny
  • saturntech9
  • Expert
  • 28,259 posts

Does it restart right away after it dies?Any codes?

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Monday, October 15th, 2012 AT 12:04 AM
  • Tiny
  • edwardrichardson
  • Member

It will not restart right away but if we wait a while it will start again but then it just dies after a few seconds. We have been able to pull some codes for oxygen sensors and egr but that shouldn't cause the PCM to just kill the engine would it?

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Monday, October 15th, 2012 AT 12:22 AM
  • Tiny
  • saturntech9
  • Expert
  • 28,259 posts

So when it dies and wont start do you have a nice blue spark?

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Monday, October 15th, 2012 AT 4:23 AM
  • Tiny
  • edwardrichardson
  • Member

I will have to check.I think that it has NO SPARK when it shuts down but not sure. I will post again later after I can get some help to check. Thanks for your assistance so far!

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Monday, October 15th, 2012 AT 1:19 PM
  • Tiny
  • saturntech9
  • Expert
  • 28,259 posts

Your welcome keep me posted.

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Monday, October 15th, 2012 AT 6:05 PM
  • Tiny
  • edwardrichardson
  • Member

Well.I removed and cleaned the throtle body, the idle air bypass, the egr valve, the EGR vacume control, the MAP sensor and the TPS. I also went over every vacume line I could find disconnecting them and then coating the nipples with silicone caulk and then replacing the lines. The "smog" pumps fitting that connects to the cruise control has an additional opening to draw in air when vacume is not needed (?) That was clogged, cleaned that and reconnected the hose with a clamp. The EGR vacume control (on right inner fender) had a "filter" inside that was totally groady and fell apart in my hand when I took it out. I replace the filter with a piece of a coffee filter until we can get a new one. After all of this. It started right up and runs fine. The "Check Engine" light is on and we will pull the code tommorrow to see what it is about.

Bottom line is that it is back running (better than ever).

I hope on the newer models Ford has made troubleshooting easier. Every care should come with a maintenance manual and a code reader. The manual needs to include step by step instructions for the owner to be able to do ANY maintenance on the vehicle and the Diagnostic system needs to be able to tell the owner EXACTLY what is wrong.

Just my opinion.

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Monday, October 15th, 2012 AT 11:51 PM
  • Tiny
  • saturntech9
  • Expert
  • 28,259 posts

I agree ford and chrsyler trouble trees/diagnostics arent real clear or that easy to follow.I like gm thats my favorite cars to work on just my opion. Let me know what code you you have.

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Tuesday, October 16th, 2012 AT 12:44 AM

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