No spark. No fuel

Tiny
STACKS
  • 1989 DODGE DAYTONA
  • 117,000 MILES

Died while driving. Cranks but won't start. Replaced coil. Fuel pump. And asd? No spark. And fuel pump does not engage. Could an hep cause this

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Saturday, November 19th, 2011 AT 12:50 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
  • 28,843 POSTS

Hey guys. You're a step ahead of most people by recognizing you have a spark AND fuel problem. Too many people get hung up on the first thing they find missing.

Which engine do you have? Start by measuring the voltage to the ignition coil positive terminal, either small wire bolted to the back of the alternator, or the feed wire to any injector, (if you have multiple injectors). A test light is more accurate than a digital voltmeter because the voltmeter might not respond fast enough. You will see 12 volts there for just one second after turning on the ignition switch, then it will go back to 0 volts. You might hear the fuel pump hum for that one second. That voltage must come back during engine rotation, (cranking or running).

The least common symptom is you'll never see voltage there. Suspect a burned open fuse link wire. More commonly you'll see 12 volts for the first second but not during cranking. That voltage comes from the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay which the Engine Computer turns on when it gets pulses from the crankshaft position sensor and / or camshaft position sensor. That sensor is inside the distributor. It's called the "Hall Effect Switch" in the 2.2L and 2.5L engines and has a very high failure rate. Many people carry a spare in the glove box. It's real easy to replace in a couple of minutes with just a philips screwdriver. The sensor is under the rotor in the distributor. While you're in there be sure the rotor turns when cranking the engine. If it doesn't, suspect a broken timing belt. These were dandy little engines and not the interference design so no valves get damaged when the belt breaks. Typically that sensor fails by becoming heat-sensitive. The engine will stall after the engine warms up or it won't restart after being shut down for a short period of time. It will work again after the engine cools down for up to an hour.

The 3.0L V-6 also has the sensor in the distributor. It's an optical pickup assembly with an extremely low failure rate. A broken timing belt is more common. That is also a non-interference engine.

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Saturday, November 19th, 2011 AT 7:26 PM
Tiny
MARTINEZ0616
  • 1989 DODGE DAYTONA

Electrical problem
1989 Dodge Daytona 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 164129 miles

my car is not getting any spark from the coil every thing else works its just not sending sprak to the plugs.

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Thursday, August 3rd, 2017 AT 8:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Check power feed to the coil, auto shut down relay ( ASD Relay ) and also test the SMEC Single Module Engine Controller

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Thursday, August 3rd, 2017 AT 8:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DAYTONASHELBYMAN76
  • 1988 DODGE DAYTONA

Electrical problem
1988 Dodge Daytona 4 cyl Manual

hi. I have a 1988 dodge daytona shelby z 2.2 intercooled turbo that is having ignition problems. The engine will crank over but is not starting. I replaced the coil and it is a good coil however I am not getting battery voltage to both terminals. Thus no spark in primary or secondary windings while the engine is cranking. I took the plug from the distributor terminal as also tested for spark but nothing happened. I also tested the ASD relay and it tested good. Since the coil is not getting battery voltage should I check the wiring in the starting circuit? What else should I check? Any help at this time would be much appreciated. Thanks.

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Thursday, August 3rd, 2017 AT 8:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HONDAC
  • MEMBER

Coil will get voltage from ASD relay for less than 2 seconds if key is turned on, but engine not cranked, so check for voltage while cranking.
Unplug the MAP sensor and see if it starts. It will throw a code 13 and/or 14 after this, but if it starts, you probably need a MAP sensor. One of the most common causes for a no start is the distributor pick up plate. They go bad a lot. There is a specified resistance for the pick up, but I don't have it in front of me. Sometimes if you wiggle the wires coming from the distributor while someone cranks it it will fire. That could tell you it has broken wires in it. It just lifts out after removing the cap.

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Thursday, August 3rd, 2017 AT 8:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BCIPOLLONI
  • 1984 DODGE DAYTONA

Engine problem
1984 Dodge Daytona 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual 56,326 miles

I have changed the coil and cap & rotor but still can't get any spark. The automatic shutdown relay behind the glovebox makes a thwong sound every time I turn the key on. Could this prevent the car from sparking? If not that could it be the "logic Module"? Thanks for the help I am running out of ideas.

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Thursday, August 3rd, 2017 AT 8:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
  • 68,227 POSTS

Hi:
The ASD will shut the spark and fuel.

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Thursday, August 3rd, 2017 AT 8:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CHRIS86ALLGOOD
  • 1993 DODGE DAYTONA
  • 112,869 MILES

Its 1993 dodge daytona v6 3.0 and it has been sitting for some years! Im getting fiel and fuel, perssu re e

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Thursday, August 3rd, 2017 AT 8:06 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Go to this link for more information: http://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

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Thursday, August 3rd, 2017 AT 8:06 PM (Merged)

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