1988 Honda Accord



March, 5, 2012 AT 3:20 AM

iam a new owner of a 1988 honda accord 2.0 w/carb I have a haines book and I have downloaded the PDF owners manual and neither of these helped on this particular problem

simptoms- idle rough cold, runs warmer than it should, its a little sluggish, lack of power, and it disels out bad sometimes when its turned off. I have to put it in gear and pop the clutch to get it shut off. But, it has never back fired surpisingly

so I first pulled off the the top timing belt gaurd to take look at the belt and it is in great shape as far as I can see. Which tells me that it has been replaced. I took a look at the top pulley to see if the markings are lined up with the top of the head gasket, both are. After I had lined the #1 piston at TDC.I was told by the previous owner that the cap and rotor(hitatchi style: coil lead coming from the top and out the side, kinda like the spark plugs do) had been replaced a few months ago. But, still went ahead and pulled the cap and noticed a little carbon build up on the botton of the tab and on the inside of cap on the leads.I did clean this off) I checked to see if it lined up with the #1 firing lead that I had marked before removing the cap. It too, was a little past my marking but hit on the top of the rotor just before it completly missed.I am just guessing, but I figure I want to be some where in the middle or even a little before?Not sure and would liketo verify that thought please. Now the distributer has been pushed/turned downwards all the way and can go no further in this direction. Im guessing again but, this would be the way in order to retard the timing. Keep in mind that I have not had to touch adistributor for almost a decade when I still could afford to drive a small 350 3/4ton pickup. Which icould dam near time by ear: )so hopefully im wrong on which way to retard and advance the timing on this small import. And only have to turn it back the other way to fix this. Now ive youtube and tried to find some thing in the forums on this issue but was unable to find anything related to this particular year and issue(but, did find out alot more info about distributor timing that I didnt before) ipulled the plugs to check them and they were fauld out with carbonbuild up. But no evidence suggested that anything other than I was running rich before I dialed air/fuelmixure in was going on there.
i was given some advise on what would fix this problem. I dont trust it enough to do it. But, I could simply pull the distributor off all the way and back it up two teeth. If this is good advise. Please explain in detail how to do this.
another piece of advise I got from another source said that the pulley on top is not lining up with another one that is on the bottom of the motor which I cant see at this time. And that that bottom pulley is off.I had not wanted to pull the main crank pulley off if I didnt have to. Just for the simple fact that ive never had to on any other car ive onwned and im not sure how to do so if I didnt have a specific tool for pulling off this particular pulley. If this is the case and you know of a way to do this without having to go buy some tool I will only use a few time please tell.
i would really appreciate a good forums site on older honda accords's if any one know? Idont think I left any details about this problem


2 Answers



March, 5, 2012 AT 3:46 AM

I'd try the pull distrib and back up a tooth or 2.



March, 5, 2012 AT 1:32 PM

The dieseling is most probably to too high idling or the fuel cut solenoid is stuck open or its tip has been snipped off.

The distributor is a dummy proof type, you can't turn it any tooth forward or backwards. You would need a timing light to check the ignition timing and static timing does not work as the engine igniton requires a constant vacuum and can range from 16 to 25 degrees depending on your model.

The timing mark for TDC is at the flywheel, just below the upper hose outlet where you would find a window.

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