1988 Honda Accord carburetor questions

BUZO

MEMBER
1988 HONDA ACCORD
4 CYL
2WD
AUTOMATIC
188,555 MILES

There are two throttle vacuum actuators in this carburetor, the one in the passenger's side is the throttle controller and the one un the driver's side is the boost throttle controler (yes, it's A/T). Both of them have an adjustment screw that has a spring and a little cup around the phillips screw head.

The questions are:
1)Are those screws a mechanical stop? So they prevent the actuator to go beyond the limit set with the screw?

2)Or the contrary, the actuator will not move the throttle until it touches the tip of the screw?

3) Or something else.

I have been playing a bit with those screws and I can't figure out how they work, I have never removed the carburetor, so I have never had the chance to do a visual inspection to the mechanism beyond to what I can see (not much) when it is installed.

3 Replies

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,815 POSTS

The adjustment screw on driver side is for the electrical load and A/C fast idle compensation. It should be adjusted only when the A/C is turned on. If it is equipped with a double vacuum, the rear has an adjustment for electrical load.

The passenger side is for the autochoke function. When vacuum is released, the actuator should push the throttle plate open to allow the autchoke to work correctly when cold. If vacuum is faulty, it would affect cold start. Without it, the autochoke would not work until you push the accelerator pedal.

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Wednesday, December 22nd, 2010 AT 12:37 PM

BUZO

MEMBER
4 POSTS

Thank you Sr.

You gave me very good clues. So That's exactly why I didn't see any effect in the adjustments, The car was in parking with A/C off.
So far the choke is working fine, so I will not mess with the passenger's side actuator.

I did a little trick with the air vent cut-off actuator so the car is now working perfect, when cold and also when in red lights.

This is what I did: after replacing the air intake actuator to let the car to control the temperature of the air getting to the carburetor, and replacing the needle and seat (to avoid the fuel overfloding issue) the car worked OK, but I kept searching for more vacuum actuator's issues, and found the air vent cut-off actuator in the upper side of the carburetor/driver side damaged. I replaced and got the engine stalling in cold as a result. I put the damaged diapragm back and problem solved. I know this is not a normal condition and the carburetor is getting gasoline vapors through this diaphragm, but I will leve as it is until I find the root cause of why by fixing this actuator the engine stalls.

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Wednesday, December 22nd, 2010 AT 5:39 PM

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,815 POSTS

I am sorry I do not understand your description clearly. Is it possible to upload a picture of the actuator that your are referring to?

When carburettor vapor are getting past diaphragms, the diaphragm is bad resulting in vacuum leakage and can cause idling and emission problems.

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Thursday, December 23rd, 2010 AT 11:28 AM