1987 Ford F-150 Crank no start

Tiny
SKITTLEMA94
  • MEMBER
  • 1987 FORD F-150
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
Died on way home, wouldn't start back up, tried jumping battery no good, New sending unit with tank, New filter, bypassed solenoid for frame pump. Got wires to toggle, New distributor & coil. Has pressure at rail. Crank no start. What's wrong
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Monday, November 30th, 2015 AT 5:45 PM

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Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
What's wrong is my head is spinning from your description. You got the "wires to toggle"? What does that mean? Jump-starting the battery suggests you think this is a charging system problem. "New sending unit with tank" I'm guessing is the gas tank, which suggests you think there's a fuel supply problem. If you bypassed the relay for the external fuel pump, you will have fuel pressure at the engine. The proper thing to do would be to listen if that pump is running. That will tell you the pump and its wiring are okay but not if the relay is being turned on during engine cranking. Did you install the distributor in an attempt to solve this problem or did the problem occur after it was replaced? It sounds like nothing was actually diagnosed. Have you checked for spark?
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Monday, November 30th, 2015 AT 6:46 PM
Tiny
SKITTLEMA94
  • MEMBER
Truck needed New gas tank when I bought it. The internal pump didn't get replaced when replaced tank, the wires to toggle, solenoid for external pump is bad. So it's ran off of a switch so I manually turn on. The coil and distributor was replaced by a shop 2 weeks ago when I couldn't get truck running, only reason I was jumping the battery was cuz I was killing it trying to start it, Truck was running good on my way home from work, stopped at my gmas, left running, went to leave truck died, took about 20mins to get started, pulled out of driveway, made a turn at stop sign then it died, and wouldn't start
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Monday, November 30th, 2015 AT 11:52 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
I'm sorry, but I'm even more confused. I still don't have any idea what "the wires to toggle" means. By "fuel pump solenoid", if you're referring to a failed fuel pump relay, why wouldn't you simply replace it? The system is designed to turn the fuel pump off if the engine stalls. That is a safety feature in case a fuel line gets ruptured in a crash. If the fuel pump kept on running, it would dump raw fuel onto the ground where it would be a serious fire hazard. You bypassed that safety system with a switch? If the other guy runs a red light and causes a crash, his lawyer or insurance investigator is going to love you. That switch will remove a lot of their liability for your injuries.

I don't know what a "gmas" is or if it's important to the story. Also don't know what it took to get the engine restarted, but even though there's no definitive clues, what you've described suggests a signal from a sensor is being lost. That sensor would be the pickup coil inside the distributor. There's two different systems depending on where your ignition module is. If you have a large box on the inner fender or firewall, the sensor it uses doesn't cause too much trouble. The most likely problem is the wires break from flexing.

If you have the much smaller "TFI" module bolted to the side of the distributor, that uses a three-wire sensor that often fails by becoming heat-sensitive, then it works again when it cools down for an hour.

The place to start is by checking for spark as soon as the engine stalls. Since the distributor was just replaced, the assumption is the pickup coil was part of it so it's new. That would leave the ignition module as the main suspect for a no-spark problem.
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2015 AT 4:28 PM

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