Starts but won't stay running.

Mine is doing the same it was the air flow meter, I got a used one and all fixed! I love this stie

I cant find a used one where did you get it?

1987 Nissan 300ZX 2+2 non-turbo manual transmission. When I disengage the clutch and start to go from a stop, my car sputters. I usually push the accelerator down about half way. When it starts sputtering, I release the accelerator and push down slowly. When I release the accelerator, my car feels like it slips, and it jolts and when I push the accelerator back down a little, it will jolt forward a little and not sputter as much. I've also noticed that it doesn't have very good acceleration what-so-ever, from a stopped position or in a high gear when I'm on the interstate. A friend told me to take the Cat Converter out and I've noticed that people who have trouble with acceleration have received answers to replace or unclog the cat converter. My friend also suggested to replace the headers and get a better exhaust system. Unfortunately, I don't have much money at the moment and am looking for the cheapest way to get better performance and better fuel economy, with increased acceleration. Please and thank-you.

Nick Markham

Hello,

This guide will help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Let me know.

I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. I have replaced spark plugs. I have put new fuel lines and vacuum lines on the car. It starts up and cuts right off on its own. If I spray starter fluid in the intake it starts and I have to keep my foot on the accelerator or it will cut off. When I do that I can only get the car to go to 3,700 rpm's. What could be the problem?

I have cleaned the injectors, replaced fuel filter, fuel relays, distributor cap, rotor button, spark plugs+wires, starter, and established the pump is in working condition. I have adjusted the timing. The car will idle for a moment then it slowly drops in rpms and while driving it will randomly stall out and sputter when u attempt to accelarate

My car will start but wont stay running

I start car it runs for about 5min and then stops? If I start it and spray starting spray it stays running! So what could be my PROBLEM?

My 1986 Nissan 300zx non-turbo was running fine, then just stalled out suddenly and would not restart. I checked the plugs, wiring, fuel, all are OK. I installed a new coil, distributor cap and rotor. If I unplug the connector wire to injector #2, engine will start but idles on only 2 or 3 cylinders (very weak ignition in cylinders 2, 4 and 6). When engine is idling, if I reconnect injector #2 again, engine will stall out and will not restart - unless I spray Carb and Choke Cleaner into the air intake while cranking the starter. Then it will start. I checked the fuel pressure and it is 37-40 psi at idle - which is in the range specified in the Nissan Manual. Can anybody help me figure out what the problem is?

EDITED on 06/29/10:

Thank you, rasmataz! (Below).

We just checked the ohm readings at injectors #1, #2, and #3 (the others are buried deep behind wiring and hoses.) - And the reading at #2 was way off, only 1/3 of the readings at #1 and #3. So, #2 is definitely failed. I really appreciate your help and I will be making a contribution to this site!

Thanks again, ras and guys !

I had some electrical problems on this car. Replaced the ECU (or ECM. What ever it's called) and it ran great for a few days. It sat for awhile and lately have been driving it and it blubbers. You can play with the accelerator to get it to run better, but in 4th or 5th gear is no good at all. Don't know if I should be looking at fuel or electrical. Alternator is less than a year old. Put new battery cables on. Just dunno.
Thanks
LF

Codes 11, 13, 13, 21, 23, 31, 33&41

Car cranks but won't start.

No dome light or diagnostic(dash) lights.

No accessories what-so-ever.