The mechanical fuel pump has been replaced when I replaced Carb. I have also added to fuel line:
*Fuel pressure mini-gauge(reads 3-4 consistantly)
*Fuel pressure adjuster. This is now manually adjustable since I replaced stock carb to a true weber carb. Yes the mechanical fuel pump was pumping too high for the weber. Before fuel adjustment, it was reading over 5 on the gauge until I installed the Fuel pressure adjuster.
The truck has a rubber cogged belt for timing & oil pump, which both been replaced within the past 3 months. When timing belt broke, it some how caused the crankshaft pulley bolt to spin off with the pulley. Thank god the 2 parts just dropped onto the skid plate tray where I was able to retrieved them and install both new belts. I thought maybe timing belt jumped a tooth prior to the belt melt down. This would be a sure sign for hard starting and reverse carb air flow, but after replacement it did not start any easier.
The distributor: I am wondering about this part myself. I have looked at the distributor and while motor is not running, grabbed the rotor and checked side to side play. This didn't seem to be an issue since the play was almost null. I grabbed rotor again and turned it forward and backward to check the return action of the rotor shaft. This seemed to be a little stiff to return to home. It didn't snap back completely to home when I did this test. It looked like it returned a little shy of home. I have another distributor off of a wrecking yard truck that I picked up a while ago. This one seemed to be a little more springy when I performed the same rotor turn test on it.
But, would this cause the truck to have a hard start when cold from overnight sitting and start quick when warmed up and being used?
Saturday, December 10th, 2011 AT 2:10 AM