My car was running rough and now it wont start and its backfireing into the throttlebody

Tiny
510
  • 1982 BUICK SKYLARK
  • 140 MILES

I have an 82 buick skylark 2.5L TBI we got the car started and drove it about an hour home on the freeway it ran fine then when we got home and shut it off it wouldnt start again till it sat for awhile then it was still hard to start when it was running the engine would pluse. I did a tune up cap, rotor, plugs, wires, Ive changed the coil I could get the car to start sometimes then the car started to overheat I got thermostat and temp sensor the car started ran ok didnt overheat anymore but the next day I was going to work on it and it wont start at all it turns over fine twice then it like glugs three times then backfires into the throttle body and will not start there is also a really loud squeal where the belts are ive changed both belts and it still makes noise it get louder when its reved up but goes away after awhile

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Tuesday, May 1st, 2012 AT 9:07 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
FIXITMR
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Does that have a timing chain or belt? Is it a throttle body?

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Tuesday, May 1st, 2012 AT 9:20 PM
Tiny
510
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Im not sure if its a chain or belt and yes it a singel port throttle body

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Tuesday, May 1st, 2012 AT 11:51 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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Check the distributor cap. I believe it still had one then. It may be wet or carboned tracked.

Roy

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Wednesday, May 2nd, 2012 AT 12:07 AM
Tiny
FIXITMR
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Check fuel pressure. Backfire besides misfire, can mean to lean

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Friday, May 4th, 2012 AT 12:37 AM
Tiny
510
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Turned out the new rotor broke wasnt maken good contact anymore put the old one back in. So it starts again but it still backfires when I give it gas if it in drive or reverse it will stall out and die. I think the water pump is bad it keeps overheating I got a new temp sensor and thermostat and the loud sqweel when it starts sounds like it could be the water pump still dont have a check engine light and the temp light didnt come on when it overheated

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Friday, May 4th, 2012 AT 10:01 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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I think you need to back up to basics. Start with a compression test.
You talked about the rotor being bad, how about the cap?

The timing is worked with gears, not a belt or chain.

Roy

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Saturday, May 5th, 2012 AT 12:39 AM
Tiny
510
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I plan. On doing a compression test tomorrow. I'll post the results

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Saturday, May 5th, 2012 AT 2:25 AM
Tiny
510
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The cap looked fine but I put the old one back on anyway.
Could the transmission be causing the car to stall and die when I stop

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Saturday, May 5th, 2012 AT 2:43 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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Yes, in those days the torque converter was a common failure and made the car stall. On the drivers front of the transmission, there is a square connector on the trans. Remove it and see if it continues.

It would have nothing to do with the bacfiring.

Roy

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Saturday, May 5th, 2012 AT 2:52 AM
Tiny
510
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Sorry I posted that wrong it dosent die when I stop
it dies when I try to go after stoping it pops and dies

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Saturday, May 5th, 2012 AT 11:48 PM
Tiny
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What is the fuel pressure as requested by Mr. Fixit?

Roy

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Saturday, May 5th, 2012 AT 11:51 PM
Tiny
510
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I dont have the 109 dollar deposit that the auto parts store wants to rent a fuel pressure gauge
i did the compression test #1-140 #2-145 #3-137 #4-142
i disconected the idel air sensor while the car was running and the engine didnt change and no check engine light came on did the same thing to the throttle position sensor and it gave me a check engine light car still overheating so I cant run it for long

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Sunday, May 6th, 2012 AT 3:46 AM
Tiny
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First, I would fix the overheating before you damage the motor. Then we can proceed with these issues

Roy

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Sunday, May 6th, 2012 AT 4:01 AM
Tiny
510
  • MEMBER

Ya thats the plan im gona get a water pump and see if that fixes

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Sunday, May 6th, 2012 AT 6:52 PM
Tiny
510
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So I fixed the overheating. Problem. Now it backfires into
The throttle body and stalls when. I give it gas

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Friday, May 11th, 2012 AT 12:10 AM

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