My CJ has recently been rebuilt. The engine dies occansionally. Doesn't seem to be related to weather, bumps, fuel tank level. Just shuts off for a couple of seconds. If I'm driving, I won't even make it to a complete stop before it restarts. If I'm pulling into a stop sign I will be shutdown completely. No loss of lights, gauges all look good. Has an AMC 360 engine with the original duraspark ignition. Fuel pump is strong, less than 5K miles on engine. New wires, plugs, cap, rotor filter, ect. Runs very strong. Not overheating.
I'M GUESSING YOU HAVE A DWELL/ TACH METER AND A "PLAIN JANE" TIMING LIGHT?
October, 19, 2012 AT 9:50 PM
Some DIY, some shop, engine was built by Rick Slapter of Precision Engine in Houston, 9: 1 compression 204/214 @.050 cam, Thorley tri-Y exhaust headers, 2" dual exhaust w/crossover no Cat, Edelbrock performer intake, Edlebrock Thunder series AVS 650 cfm carb with electric choke. Carb is still factory set and a little rich, true idle speed 800 rpm when warm. New mechanical fuel pump, new fuel filter, new wires, plugs, cap rotor, high flow water pump and high flow thermostat, new belts, hoses, etc. With the rebuild. Still has the ORIGINAL Dura spark ignition & distributor (had a Jacobs but it failed before engine install), power steering, power brakes with dual diaphragm upgrade, four speed rebuilt Tremac 176 transmission, rebuilt Dana 300 w 4: 1 low range & JB Custom split shifter, AMC 20 rear end with Summers brothers axle & welded tubes 33x10.5-15 s on American Racing wheels. New Hayes clutch and flywheel when rebuilt. Has air lockers front and back, 4: 11 dif, sway bar disconnects and more if you need. The vacuum advance is still off of the carb & PVC is still intact the rest of the pollution gear is gone, no pollution inspection required & none installed. Motor installed by a local wrecker, they adjusted the mix screws, timing was dial set by Precision Engine. PS: I'm the original owner.
Motor has run great for 6 months now, and then started to die on the way to work, but only momentarily. This occurs around 4 miles into the ride. No loss of electrical power, lights stayed on, and gauges read fine. Tried bumpy road to see if it was a lose wire, couldn t make it repeat. I noticed that as the weather is getting cooler the distance till my first occurrence of the day has extended. My first thought is the ignition control module may be going out. The NAPA dealer had one on the self, changed it at lunch.
October, 19, 2012 AT 10:06 PM
October, 20, 2012 AT 2:07 AM
I LIKE IT AS FAR AS LOOKS AND CAPABILITY!
TOO MUCH ENGINE FOR ME!
MY 1ST WAS A '77 CJ 5 W/ A STOCK 304
I WAS ABLE TO OUTRUN A F-16 IN FULL AFTERBURNER!
UNTIL I RAN OUT OF 2ND GEAR, AT ABOUT 90 MPH. WHEN I PULLED IT BACK INTO 3rd
THE "LAUNCH" FACTOR WAS ALL GONE WITH MY 3 SPEED T-150
I GENERALLY WOULD SORTA SHAKE MY HEAD SORTA GIVE THE "GIT OUTTA HERE" WAVE OFF (AS IF I HAD DONE SHOWED 'EM ONLY "PART" OF WHAT I HAD). ALL OF THIS, WHILE I WAS WAY AHEAD. THEN I'D JUST LET OFF OF THE GAS!
STILL NO ANSWER ON THE FUEL FILTER SYSTEM? I SAW YOU HAD THE CORRECT FILTER--IS IT HOOKED TO THE RETURN LINE?----PLUGGED OFF?---CHANGED OVER TO AN "IN AND OUT" REGULAR FILTER?
WHAT IS MAX FUEL PRESSURE FOR YOUR CARB?
LET ME KNOW WHEN YOU ARE READY TO TWEAK MR. CARB.
WAS THERE A RECOMMENDED TIMING SETTING FOR YOUR CAM?
YOU LOST ME WHILE AGO WHEN YOU SAID, "The vacuum advance is still off of the carb & PVC is still intact."
YES---THE PCV IS NECESSARY---INSURE YOU HAVE FRESH AIR TO THE OTHER VALVE COVER, FROM THE AIR CLEANER TO REPLENISH WHAT IS S. UCKED OUT BY THE PCV
. PLUGGING THE OTHER HOLE IS JUST LIKE PLUGGING OFF THE PCV. NOT GOOD!
THE PCV PROVIDES PART OF THE COMBUSTION AIR TO THE ENGINESTICKING YOUR FINGER OVER THE PCV WILL SHOW YOU HOW MUCH IT BOGS DOWN, WHEN IT'S STARVING FOR AIR
WHY IS THE VAC ADV NOT HOOKED UP?
YOU TACH. WILL DO! TO ADJUST IDLE SPEED IN A PINCHLETS GET AN UNDER HOOD CLIP ON MODEL. THE LONGER THE SWEEPING NEEDLE. THE BETTER. WE WILL NEED THIS TO ADJUST THE CARB. THE LONGER NEEDLE WILL BE MORE SENSITIVE AT THE TIP.
SOME PEOPLE LIKE TO USE A VACUUM GAUGE----I THINK THE DWELL/ TACH IS MORE SENSITIVE--EZier TO SEE THE MINUTE MOVEMENTS
DOES THE CARB HAVE BOWL VENTS. DID YOU PLUG 'EM OFF WHERE THEY CANNOT BREATHE?
CLEAN THE SURFACE YOUR IGNITION MODULE SITS ON FOR A BETTER GROUND
THINK IT'S IN THE IGNITION SYSTEM SOME WHERE?IF IT'S A BREAK. BY PASS THAT PUPPY WITH A "SECOND IGNITION WIRE" (THIS WILL NOT HELP YOU, IF IT'S A SHORT TO GROUND) THIS WILL GIVE YOU CONTINUOUS IGNITION AS A TEST ONLY. REMOVING A CLIP WILL BE THE ONLY WAY TO KILL IT. SEE MY PICS
. POS BATTERY TO POS COIL.A TEST ONLY!
CLICKING ON "ADD IMAGE" WILL SLING OUT ANOTHER "ADD IMAGE"---YOU CAN POST MULTIPLE PICS IN ONE ANSWER
October, 21, 2012 AT 7:57 PM
Sorry for being late getting back and the short answer for now. We are working an outage 7x14's at the plant till late November and it's gotten a little busy. Changing of the ignition module did fix my problem. The pictures were from the installation, didn't have time to take some of the final setup. The vacuum lines that I was talking about. There were two, one from the intake manifold and the other from the carb that went to a temp switch built into the thermostat cover then to the distributor. I only have one to the distributor from the carb now. The Edelbrock carb is a Weber built modified Carter AFB. PVC is connected to the carb. I haven t tuned the carb . Yet. It s not hard and can be done without taking the carb off the jeep. But it s a bit of a reach. I ll get back with you when the outage is over when I can do some tuning. Glad to know there s a resource out there. Thanks again
October, 22, 2012 AT 12:44 AM
MUCH OF THIS STUFF IS THE SAME---6 CYL OR 8 CYL
YOU JUST GOTTA SORTA TRANSLATE IT
THIS WILL GIVE YOU SOMETHING TO READ, BEFORE YOU RETURN HERE WITH AN UPDATE
I'M STILL TRYING TO FIGURE OUT THE MESS THEY MADE OF THE SITE
I DID NOT GET NOTIFIED VIA E-MAIL THAT YOU HAS RESPONDED---I WONDER HOW MANY MORE ARE HANGING IN SUSPENSE WAITING FOR ME TO ANSWER THEM?
I POUR OVER THE CJ FORUMS CONSTANTLY (WHERE MY HEART IS) MAKING SURE Y'ALL GET MORE INFO THAN YOU EVER WANTED. WHEN I 1ST STARTED HERE, THE CJs WERE GETTING "ONE LINER" ANSWERS.....IF YOU DID NOT KNOW HOW TO TRANSLATE AND BASICALLY WERE NOT A "TRAINED MECHANIC", YOU WERE PROBABLY BETTER OFF NOT EVEN ASKING YOUR QUESTION.
I'M NOT AN "AMC TRAINED TECHNICIAN"----I'M RUNNING MOSTLY ON MY OWN EXPERIENCES HAVING ONLY OWNED CJs....SO FAR SEVEN! SINCE I GOT MY DRIVERS LICENSE IN 1981......I HAVE DONE ALL OF MY OWN WORK (SOME HELP IN THE BEGINNING).........MY MASTERPIECE, "WILLY", RESURRECTED FROM A USABLE FRAME AND DRIVE TRAIN (THE ENTIRE BODY WAS CANNED) AND 2 YEARS TIME....ALL BY MYSELF!
I WAS ABOUT 27.....AND "HAD TO" STOP SAYIN', " I WISH I HAD ONE"!......I'M NO LONGER A WILLYS "WANNA BE"
ALTHOUGH I REALLY HAVE DONE THIS SEVERAL TIMES OVER, ON MY CJs AND AIDING OTHER FOLKS WITH THEIR....A LITTLE AT A TIME...ONE SYSTEM AT A TIME...OVER 30 YEAR TIME...."WILLY" WAS MY 1ST 100% EXTREME MAKE OVER, I'M STILL "TWEAKING" ON HIM STILL......HE WAS SORTA COMPLETED IN THE EARLY '90s........I LACK SHOVEL AND AX, AND A MOUNT FOR MY REPLICA M-2
PRESENTLY IN THE MIDDLE OF REPLACING THE CLUTCH--MY THROW OUT BEARING WENT OUT (I'M IN THERE....I'M DOING IT ALL EVEN THOUGH THE REST LOOKED OK).......JUST LOOKS LIKE A THROW OUT BEARING WOULD LAST MORE THAN 20 YEARS?????
MOST OF THESE PICS ARE SNAPSHOTS FROM A VHS TAPE THAT I MADE AS I TRIED TO KEEP UP WITH MY PROGRESSION