I have no spark when I crank the car over

Tiny
GARY BANGI
  • MEMBER
  • 1966 FORD MUSTANG
I changed the points, wires, plugs and coil. Ran fine until I washed the engine down. Now it wont start. No spark at all.
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Saturday, September 3rd, 2011 AT 1:49 AM

11 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
--Check if you're getting power at the coil positive terminal if not check resistance wire to the ignition switch. If okay regap the point/s-also check cap and rotor
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Saturday, September 3rd, 2011 AT 1:59 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Just to add to this one I say remove the cap and see if you got water in there shorting out the spark. Thats the most likely cause of it not starting after washing the engine.
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Saturday, September 3rd, 2011 AT 2:09 AM
Tiny
GARY BANGI
  • MEMBER
Ok I changed the ignition switch. Still no spark. I installed a mallory unilite distributor a few years ago. I changed the the cap and rotor still nothing. Its been a week and I checked to see if there was any water in any of the wire harnesses and it dry. Going to change the voltage regulator and solenoid just to try
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Saturday, September 3rd, 2011 AT 10:38 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Did you check for power at the coil positive terminal and what do you got-
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Saturday, September 3rd, 2011 AT 11:09 PM
Tiny
GARY BANGI
  • MEMBER
Ya im getting 11 volts from the positive terminal. Do you think it could be a bad solenoid? The engine kicks over just wont spark.
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Sunday, September 4th, 2011 AT 3:47 AM
Tiny
GARY BANGI
  • MEMBER
Got 11 volts from the positive terminal. Do you think it could be a bad solenoid? It cranks but no spark from the coil wire to the cap. I even changed the wire just to be sure. I know the coil is getting juice.
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Sunday, September 4th, 2011 AT 3:52 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
I AM ASSUMING YOU HAVE NOT MOVED ANYTHING ELSE!

I DO UNDERSTAND POINTS...I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT YOUR REPLACEMENT DISTRIBUTOR (BELLS AND WHISTLES?)

GOT 2 THINGS FOR YOU TO TRY, IF APPLICABLE

1) WITH A VOLTMETER TEST DO A CONTINUITY TEST, REMOVE DIST WIRE TO "NEG COIL"..... CONTINUITY TEST WILL BE THAT WIRE, THRU YOUR METER TO GROUND ON THE DISTRIBUTOR BASE........WHEN TURNING THE ENGINE OVER BY HAND, THE VOLTMETER SHOULD SHOW "NO CONTINUITY" WHEN THE POINTS ARE OPEN AND "CONTINUITY" WHEN THEY ARE CLOSED.....THIS WAS MY "LAST DITCH EFFORT...FINAL WAY OUT, OF MY BAD SITUATION", WHEN I HAD PROBLEMS WITH MY JEEP, YEARS AGO!

READ MY LAST REPLY ON THIS ONE!

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/jeep-cj5-1975-jeep-cj5-wont-start

2) JUST FOR GIGGLES, LETS TRY POS BATTERY TO POSITIVE COIL WITH A JUMPER......RESULTS?.....IF ANY GOOD ONES, I MAY CAN HELP YOU LEAN IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION

3) DO YOU HAVE THE CORRECT COIL (INTERNAL/ EXTERNAL RESISTOR)? DO YOU KNOW HOW TO TEST IT

THE MEDIC
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Sunday, September 4th, 2011 AT 2:58 PM
Tiny
GARY BANGI
  • MEMBER
Ok did a coil test on the a new coil. I get a spark from the neg when I do the test with a piece of wire. I did a voltage test and im reading 12volts from the coil. I did the continuity test and found that the volt meter reads the same when closed and open. I really appreciate the time to help me out. Thanks Medic
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Monday, September 5th, 2011 AT 3:52 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
MAYBE MY TESTING WAS WRITTEN CONFUSING. DOING NOTHING ELSE JUMPING 12VOLTS TO THE POS COIL, FROM THE BATTERY. DOES WHAT? WHEN YOU TRY TO CRANK RIG?

I WANNA MAKE SURE, BEFORE I JUMP TO A CONCLUSION

BELOW IS A PIC OF MINE ('46 WILLYS) IF I DO A CONTINUITY TEST, MY METER IS SET ON "OHMS".

IF YOU PUT THE BLACK LEAD ON THE OUTER CASE---AND THE RED LEAD ON THE SCREW (2 O'CLOCK, ON MINE) AND THE POINTS ARE CLOSED (AS MINE ARE IN PIC) YOU SHOULD HAVE CONTINUITY (READING "1" ON A DIGITAL METER, OR ON A ANALOG, THE NEEDLE HAS PROBABLY PEGGED OUT)

IF YOU ROLL THE ENGINE OVER SLIGHTLY, THE POINTS OPEN----THERE SHOULD BE NO CONTINUITY. IF THERE IS, THE PROBLEM IS WITHIN THE DISTRIBUTOR!

AS I TOLD YOU IN A LINK ABOVE, THE PROBLEM I HAD, WAS WITH THE SCREW, INSIDE THE DIST (12 O'CLOCK) IT WAS TOO LONG, AND TOUCHED THE CASE ON THE INSIDE.I CONSTANTLY HAD CONTINUITY TOO. POINTS OPEN OR CLOSED. ANYTHING FROM THE MOVING PART (ARM) OF THE POINTS. ALL THE WAY TO THE STUD, IN WHICH YOU ATTACH THE WIRE, OR BEYOND THAT, COULD BE A (WRONG) PERMANENT GROUND. SOMETHING IS TOUCHING SOMEWHERE!

TRY THE TESTS AGAIN. WHAT ARE THE RESULTS?

AS FAR AS COIL, THIS IS MINE, "FOR USE WITH A EXTERNAL RESISTOR".I "DO HAVE" A "BALLAST RESISTOR", OR I COULD HAVE A "RESISTANCE WIRE" (BOTH ARE EXTERNAL RESISTORS). THEREFORE, I USE THIS TYPE OF COIL!HOW IS YOURS SET UP? DO YOU HAVE THE CORRECT COIL. OR DID THE PARTS GUY GIVE YOU THE WRONG ONE?

THE MEDIC
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Monday, September 5th, 2011 AT 8:12 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
MISTAKE ABOVE! THE FOLLOWING LINE!

(READING "1" ON A DIGITAL METER, OR ON A ANALOG, THE NEEDLE HAS PROBABLY PEGGED OUT)

THIS SHOULD HAVE SAID, "READING 000" ON A DIGITAL OR NEEDLE PEGGED OUT! (THIS WOULD SHOW CONTINUITY!) 0400 EASTERN HERE, SORTA NEED TO BE IN THE BED!

THE MEDIC
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Monday, September 5th, 2011 AT 8:18 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
HERE'S THE OTHER PIC I LEFT OFF

THE MEDIC
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Monday, September 5th, 2011 AT 1:25 PM

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