1975 Jeep CJ5 Won't Start

Tiny
NANODAWG
  • MEMBER
  • 1975 JEEP CJ5
Engine Performance problem
1975 Jeep CJ5 V8 Four Wheel Drive Manual

Engine increasingly became difficult to start, melting baterry cables & Starter solenoid. Replace Solenoid, Battery, Cables, ignition switch and starter. Still won't start, sometimes no motion from starter. Engine turns easily by hand. Jump Start unit will kick it over, engine will run great for a while (~30 min.) Evenutally stalls and won't start. Altenator appears to be producing 14VDC. (V8 AMC 304 / 2 bbl). HELP! Voltage regulator? Wiring issue? Wrong solenoid?
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Thursday, May 27th, 2010 AT 9:39 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
See my profile, I assume it won't even turn over, pick through this, it may help...OR NOT...Special Attention to all Mechanical Electrical Joints!

We will start here, think solenoid is OK, maybe carb issue too. Or vacuum problem. Read Post "1985 Jeep CJ 7 Stalls when Hot" IN CJ 7 FORUM (14 responses)(6 cylinder, lots of good stuff in post!) Get back wih me soon, WILL HELP YOU ALL I CAN!

To keep me from hunting and pecking all night, I grabbed an answer, I gave to somebody else. See my profile.

All may not apply, pick through and use generalized part of my answer to Jill.

Let me know if it helped you.

I know your Solenoid looks different, they do the same function! Pasting----

Jill, see my profile, I believe if it were a fuse, It wouldn't work at all. I do not know your rig very well, however, I saw your question, unanswered, and thought MAYBE this might help you, get your Baby back on the road.

If the "CRAP" on down doesn't help, It could be the "cable" to the starter (clean/tighten) or the solenoid itself----even the starter......Try this stuff below 1st!!!

See my profile. Yours may not look like this, but TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (not the posts) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.

If you still have the problem, you're probably looking at $20 to replace the SOLENOID. Follow Battery Positive cable to find it.

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.

Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!

Please Reply, Good or Bad.

I will continue to try to help you through your whole ordeal, even if this didn't help you. Just continue to Reply at "reply to question".

Love, Turddog

Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up here, at the SOLENOID, looks vary, function is the same.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_EXPLANATION_2.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_A_B_C_D_17_LOCATIONS_2.jpg


"FORD TYPE" SOLINOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES., MAY VARY

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLINOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A & B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLINOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLINOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLINOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6) "I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.

7) "MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 & 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT....ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.
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Thursday, May 27th, 2010 AT 9:55 PM
Tiny
NANODAWG
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the input. I've replaced most of the starting components (Battery, Solenoid, Starter, Cables, Ignition Switch) and when it doesn't turn over, it appears as if the starter is not rotating. If the key is left in the on position and a battery jump unit is applied to the starter terminal of the solenoid the engine rotates freely and starts. Seems like an electrical short when the key is moved beyopnd "on" to start. Could there be a Voltage Regulator short?
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Thursday, May 27th, 2010 AT 11:01 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Doubt short with VR (it just charges the Battery and runs accessories, either it don't charge enough [--12volts] or it overcharges [15+ volts])

Do you have 12V(#5) on sender with key in start position?

Do you have sender "S" (#5) crossed with "I" terminal (#6)?

Do you have sender on "I" instead of "S"?

Fuses? Remove, sand each one, and their holder? (2 of mine oxidized, gave me fits, cause they were not removed, but you could see they were not blown)

You can run a new "S" wire. PUT ON DASH 12Volts thru--momentary switch--then to "S" terminal on Solenoid (crude, but will work)

Respond

Love, Turddog
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Thursday, May 27th, 2010 AT 11:20 PM
Tiny
NANODAWG
  • MEMBER
Thanks Turddog, the voltage regulator was not it (though they're so cheap, glad I replaced it). You were right the main problem was a connection. I went through all of them, except the ground to the block (yes, it looked too good to be the problem). After a beer and contemplation, I realized that was the only connection I'd not checked out. My battery had side & top terminals, so I ran a new second ground from the side terminal to the starter and she rotates just fine - all the time. The second problem "cutting off after 30 minutes, turned out to be the ignition coil return line, inside the distributor, it was melting and shorting out to the points. A fresh tune up and she is purring like a Bengal Tiger.
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Sunday, May 30th, 2010 AT 10:24 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
INCREDIWONDERFUL! ! !

Remember in Solenoid Pics, "Don't just pass it off, as it looks good!"

Glad to hear you are going

Sent you a "Private Message"

When I was going to 1st start my '46 Willys (had been messing with this restoration for months) I had a crowd of friends to observe the event

After 10 millon revolutions with the starter, and one true friend sticking by me 8 HOURS later, disassemble-reassemble--Mega troubleshooting

I found that the last man in the distributor years ago, replaced the screw that holds the brass band (on the points) With a screw just a little TOO LONG, it was grounding against the distributor wall.

I too, had replaced the points, but did so exactly as I took them out.

How I missed it so many times is beyond me!

I get few replies, I DO NOT GET PAID HERE! (MEMBER, LIKE YOU, 'CEPT I ANSWER ALOT)---I JUST LIKE TO MAINLY HELP THE CJ GUYS!

I REALLY APPRECIATE YOU COMMO-ING WITH ME...MAKES ME HAVE A WARM FUZZY--KNOWING MY EXPERIENCES CAN HELP SOMEONE ELSE!

Look at some of the other CJ5 /7 Questions, they may help you later!

Reply soon with any other comments or fixes!

Love, Turddog

MY 2ND BABY (1ST IS '77 CJ 5)


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/411289_WILLY_ALWAYS_KEEPS__A_STRAIGHT_FACE_1.jpg

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Monday, May 31st, 2010 AT 4:22 PM

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