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Car Air Conditioner Questions and Answers - This category contains featured questions as examples and relate to most vehicles
Question: 2002 Mercedes C230, miles 89,230. I have had 2 rebuilt compressors
put in my car in the past 2 months. The initial failure was the separation on the
clutch of the outer to inner ring (rubber rot). The first rebuilt one lasted 3 days
(250 miles). We assumed it was an infant mortality. It too seized up and split the
rubber on the front of the clutch. The second one lasted about 2500 miles, 6 weeks.
If failed differently. While driving it just stopped cooling. If you started the
car, then engaged the A/C the engine would stall due to strain from the A/C. Then
the fuse for the blinkers, blower, and A/C relay blew. After replacing it, the clutch
engages briefly when you start the car, but never again. My a/c mechanic claims he applied voltage to the clutch and it
pumped down. He said it felt cool on the pipes but the blower would not blow due
to another blown fuse. I have my doubts. He cited the blown fuse as evidence that
I have electrical problems and said "good luck", and still has my $800. I bypassed
the a/c relay and kept the clutch engaged for 2 minutes, and it made a horrible
noise and the pressure on the low side never moved from 110. We did not change the
expansion valve. He said you have to take out the dashboard. I went to this guy
because he was MACS certified and wanted to keep my r-12 for lower pressures and
better cooling. Is Mercedes such a different animal that I should have gone to a
German specialist? What would you do next?
Answer: Appears that the air-conditioning expansion valve
is probably not working properly.
Question: 2003 Toyota Camry mileage: 89,000. The air-conditioning
was working okay. But, now when I turn it on, the a/c knob lights up for about three
to four seconds and then starts flashing. Now the compressor will not work.
Answer: There is obviously a problem in your air-conditioning system. Scanning
the computer that controls that system will reveal a fault code that should pin-point
your problem.
Question: 2001 GMC SLT mileage:
42,000. My Jimmy has automatic climate control. AC works great, but the heater only
heats when the setting is 82 degrees, if I lower it to let's say 76 - 78 it's cold
air. The Dealer can't find anything, but I know this not a unique problem. Any ideas?
Thanks, Joe
Answer: The temperature sensor for the
climate control or the control module itself may be faulty.
Question: 1998 Chrysler Le Baron Convertible
with V6 3.0 liter. The problem I seem to be having is with the air conditioning,
the car has been sitting for about a year and the R-12 refrigerant leaked out so
I released all the remaining refrigerant so it won't get mixed with the R-134. I
went to buy a conversion kit to convert the R-12 to R-134 I put 2 cans of refrigerant
to activate the system and then 1 can of compressor oil, but then I checked the
pressure and it reads between the blue and yellow, now does that mean there is too
much pressure instead of refrigerant? After I completed the conversion and checked
for cold air coming out of the vents, it wasn't even cold at all it was just cool,
the thicker diameter hose which is supposed to be cold and it is.
I hooked up the pressure gauge, as I watched it I released the
pressure out of the high side line of the system and the gauge reads now in the
blue, which means its full right? The lines coming from the compress or, one is
hot and one is cold that's what it's supposed to be right? I think I know what happened
after the first two times that I tried to fill the system it was trying to stop
the leaking of the refrigerant, after it leaked out some I didn't check the pressure
to see what was remaining in the system so I put in more refrigerant, I think that's
why its not getting as cold, can you tell me how to get my air conditioner back
to cold? brrrr.
Answer:: We don't recommend anyone recharging their own
air-conditioning unit. This is a job for an expert because of the injuries that
could result when the job is done wrong.
Question: 2004 Sedan Deville AC. I saw your posts on the
internet and you guys really know your stuff!! Up to now, it has been difficult
getting truly professional advice on this topic (even at the Cadillac garage), so
I was wondering if you could respond to what is probably a very basic question for
you: PROBLEM: My Cadillac (88,800 mostly highway miles) now shows the amber "Service
AC" light for several seconds after starting [not just bulb check, but also may
not be 29 sec. as per owner's manual p.128]. The climate control is now always defaulted
to the ECON mode. If I push the AUTO button, the light comes back on & it goes back
to ECON mode.
SERVICES PERFORMED: I have always kept the AC system serviced, & @ 123k & 127k have
had the AC system checked with dye, black light and "sniffer leak detector." It
showed "seeping at the compressor and evaporator." Car has been carefully maintained
since brand new (father owned up to 40k miles); although I note that at 30.5k miles
the evaporator core was "blown" & replaced (surprising) by the Cadillac garage.
In the nearly 100k miles since then, I've done nothing to AC other than had it checked,
periodically recharged & had the compressor relay replaced (31k & 120k).
Answer: If the amount of refrigerant in the system is
correct, then we suspect the fan controller module is malfunctioning.
Question: 1997 Volkswagen Jetta mileage: 51,000. The air
conditioning drain seems to be clogged, causing water to drain inside the car near
the passenger floor mat area. Is there a way to fix this?
Answer: The drain lines can be cleared by inserting a
wire with a small hook on the end of the drain tubes to clear out any obstruction.
This has to be done from under the car.
Question: 1992 Mercedes 300D turbo mileage: 92,000. Hi,
I have just purchased this car and I had heard the A/C's on these cars are not the
greatest! As a matter of fact, I do see an awful lot of these cars driving around
with the windows open in the summer. I live in Florida and I can't imagine these
other drivers 'just like fresh air'. I had the refrigerant 'topped off', it didn't
require much (a mere 2+ ounces) and it does not seem to have helped. The best I
can figure, from asking questions of local mechanics, is the evaporator is simply
'too small'. The A/C barely cools - Do I have to live with this or are there some
suggestions you can make to improve the cooling capabilities? I'm sure you have
been asked this before, but I did not see it in the archives.
Answer: The big problem in Mercedes Benz air conditioning
system is the vacuum controlled temperature blend doors, check your main vacuum
control module to replace if needed.
Question: 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis mileage: 91,000.
When air-conditioner is on and the car is running at 60 MPH, the air-conditioner
blows very cold. In traffic with stop and go it starts blowing hot. Have replaced
compressor, clutch, dryer, condenser and also installed inline filter. When in traffic,
temperature gauge climbs and then the air-conditioner will blow hot. Is there a
limiter switch or something that cuts the air-conditioner out when the temperature
gauge gets to a certain point? Any ides of how I can fix the problem. I live in
AZ and it's very hot here.
Answer: Check the cooling system, particularly the radiator
to make sure it is not partially plugged. Additionally, check the radiator fan for
proper operation. If the engine temperature is running way above normal, some of
the heat is transferred to the air-conditioning condenser, which causes the air-conditioner
to lose efficiency. As for your question about a "limiter" switch, there is a high-pressure
switch in the air-conditioning system that cuts the compressor out when the pressure
gets too high.
Question: 1999 Chevy Silverado pickup mileage: 103,800.
My air conditioner needs to be re-charged. It has the old type refrigerant so it
needs to have the new type put in. Problem is my local garage said the manufacturer
(GM) recommends not doing this. But their computer tech manual gave no reason why.
Why does GM recommend not doing this? If I have it done, will it cause problems
with the AC unit? If I can't have the new style refrigerant put in where would I
find the old type (I don't think it's made anymore)?
Answer: Your vehicle can be changed over to the new type
of refrigerant (134a). However, you must remove as much of the old compressor oil
as possible first and replace it with the new type compressor oil before adding
the new refrigerant. Compression failure could result if this procedure is not followed.
Question: 2004 Chevrolet Astro mileage: 42,926. I have
a Chevy Astro Van and the air conditioner was not blowing cold air. I found out
it was a refrigerant gas leak problem. I took it to the Chevy dealer and they replaced
the leaking suction discharge hose. Next day, I found out that the rear air conditioner
was not blowing cold air. It was working fine before the refrigerant gas leak. Now,
the front A/C works fine but the rear A/C is not blowing cold air. The blower motor
is good, rear A/C switch and speed control works fine. What could be the problem?
Answer: The air-conditioning system for the front and
rear are both supplied refrigerant from a single compressor on the engine. If the
rear fans are working and the front air conditioner gets cold, then there must be
some air blockage on the rear air-conditioning system.
Question: 2001 Volvo 740 mileage: 85,000. At times, our
air conditioner doesn't cool properly. The electric fan doesn't seem to come on.
I've tried jumping the thermal switch on the radiator and got the fan and a/c to
work properly. Before changing the thermal switch, I would like to know if there
is a high-pressure switch located on the high side of the a/c system. I know of
a low-pressure switch cut out. I suspect if there is a high-pressure switch, that
it may have gone bad and not allow the electric fan to kick in.
If the condenser does not have sufficient cooling (stop and go),
then the a/c won't cool properly. If there is no high-pressure switch in the system,
then I will change the thermal switch located on the radiator. Your thoughts would
be appreciated. I know that there is no leak, the compressor is good, and the filter/dryer
is super cold.
Answer: The filter drier on your air-conditioning system
should not be super cold when the system is running. The filter drier is probably
plugged resulting in a pressure drop, which makes it super cold. The filter drier
should be replaced.
Question: 2003 Acura Integra mileage: 67,000. Hello, My
problem is my air conditioning. If the AC button is on or off, the air will come
on, not cycle, and freeze up the system. Sometimes I will sit and listen, and push
the button on or off, and it will turn the compressor on and off. But then I will
leave the button off, and in a few minutes, it will come on, stay on, and freeze
up. I thought it was a clutch problem, so I disconnected the power to the compressor,
and it stays off.
But next summer I'm going to want to use it again. Is there a
relay or anything that might be bad? On Honda products, the fan switch will also
shut off the AC in the off position, but my AC will still keep running. I do not
have auto climate control...just the regular style. I had the system recharged and
checked for pressure, and that is fine.
Answer: You may have a bad dash control switch for the
air-conditioner or a relay that is not functioning properly.
Question: 1999 Honda Accord 4 cylinder mileage: 90,000.
Air conditioner problem. Mechanic cannot fix unless they can duplicate problem.
Compressor is charged and has no leaks. Will either freeze you out, or it is warmer
than air outside. Yesterday it was putting out hot air, so I lifted the hood and
the compressor was turning. The mechanic showed me how to check. On the average
it happens about once a week. Have tried turning ac button on and off, turning off
engine and starting again, switching all the selection buttons on air console. Drove
it 3 times yesterday between 6:30 a.m. and 1:00 p.m. and it was freezing. Drove
it 3 times between 4:00 pm and 9:00 p.m. yesterday--hot air. Drove it around midnight
and it was freezing. What are the possibilities of things that could be wrong with
the system?
Answer: Check the expansion valve as it may be malfunctioning.
Also, check the engagement coil for the air-conditioner compressor clutch, as it
may be weak and occasionally disengaging.
Question: 1997 Chevrolet Lumina Van, miles: 76,230. Water
began to appear in the interior driver and passenger compartment. My mechanic replaced
the drain hose and the problem got worse. We now have at least a pint to a quart
of water in the passenger compartment whenever we run the a/c or heater. The next
step is to pull the dash, an $1100 expense, to see what is the problem. Do you have
any other suggestions prior to this step?
Answer: You may have a cracked housing around the air-conditioning
unit under the dash. If this is your problem, removing the dash is probably your
only solution. Before you do anything more, have your mechanic check to see if the
drain itself is partially plugged.
Question: 2001 Honda Accord mileage: 39,000. Dear Two
Car Pros, I need some help with my car's air conditioning. It is dripping out water
onto the floor matt of the front driver side, and it is leaking out a lot of water
onto the floor matt of the front passenger side (a lot). Both floor mats stay dry
as long as the air conditioner is not on. I do not know very much about cars, and
I was wondering if this was a common fluke (because it has been very hot lately
and the air conditioner has been on full blast), or if it is a problem that I should
have fixed. If it is a problem I was wondering about how much it would cost to fix,
or if it is something that even I might be able to fix myself.
Answer: There should be a drain line on the bottom of
the air-conditioning unit that is under the dash. The drain line should drain the
condensate water out through a tube to the outside of the car. Yours is probably
plugged.
Question: 1999 Ford Taurus mileage: 70,000. My AC has
had intermittent problems lately. I have the automatic controlled system. System
will work fine for 30 - 40 minutes on a hot day and then begin to blow warm/possibly
outside air into the cabin. Turning off the AC for a short time (5 minutes or so)
sometimes causes the problem to disappear and everything works fine again. Any idea
what could be going on? My mechanic has checked for low refrigerant and said the
system was fine. He also had a check of the computer system done with no luck. Any
help would be appreciated.
Answer: Your problem is most likely the main controller
for the heating and air-conditioning system.
Question: 1998 Toyota corolla mileage: 97,500. My
air conditioning stopped cooling again. I had it charged last year and it worked
fine all of last summer. I guess there might be a slow leak. I bought
a converter kit "R-134a Retrofit & Charging Kit" and a canister of "R-134a Stop
Leak & Detector". Since my car was charged by a licensed auto shop, am I to
assume they used R-134a. Or is my 1993 Corolla already R-134a equipped? What
are the specific steps going about recharging my car because I never did this?
Answer: We do not recommend recharging your own automobile
air-conditioning. If done improperly, you can injure yourself and damage your
car.
Question: 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4 X 4 mileage: 80,000.
When I run my air conditioner the carpet on the passenger side in the back seat
gets sopping wet. Last week the front passenger side carpet has also begun to get
wet. I mean wet. I feel like it is coming from the air conditioner
but how and how do I fix it. Please Help
Answer: The water is probably coming from the air conditioner.
Check the air-conditioning box or ductwork that surrounds the evaporator.
There should be a drain hole in the bottom for the water to escape to the outside
of the car. The drain hole may be plugged or the ductwork cracked or broken.
Question: 2002 Chevy S-10 V-6 mileage: 83,000.
When I turn on my A/C, there is a strong vibration coming from the A/C compressor.
It seems to go away at higher Rpm. When I turn on the A/C, it takes about
1-2 minutes & the compressor gets almost too hot to touch. The lines coming
from the compressor are cold & the truck cools off just fine. I don't have
a clue what could be wrong. I am currently not running the A/C for fear of
tearing it up. Yours, Hot in Alabama
Answer: The vibration may be due to a loose belt that
drives the A/C compressor. Check your belt tensioner if the seems ok your
air conditioning compressor could be coming apart internally. This is a big problem
for GM cars and trucks.
MORE:
Air conditioner questions
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