Will not accelerate

I will check the lines this morning. But to answer your questions: I used Bosch Platinum +2 so there was no need to gap.

The wires are Duralast. (Note: I changed the spark plug wires after I noticed the problem in hopes it would help)

As for the idle, it idles smooth, but high: 1k RPMs in gear. Its usually between 600-750.

I was wondering, could there be error codes without the CEL coming on?

Thank you for your response!

I've checked all the lines and nothing looks out of the ordinary.

I have also noticed that when I turn my engine off, my exhaust makes a sort of putter sound. Almost like a growl or flapping rubber. Its hard to describe.

New, normal spark plugs installed (NGK: FR5AP-10, gapped to.40). I took it for a test drive and no change. And my local mechanic doesnt seem to want to do anything b/c of no error codes.

Thank you very much for working with me about this.

It’s an automatic. And I considered the trans as well, but the RPMs stay high in neutral idle as well, which would lead me to think that it is probably not the transmission.

Plugged exhaust could be a possibility. Maybe account for the put-put when I turn the engine off. How would I go about checking that?

And it is definitely hard trying to go about this without errors codes. And without spending alot of money on unneeded parts just to go through the checklist.

But thanks a lot for trying to help me. It is not unappreciated.

I was wondering (and hoping not) if it could be a problem with fuel pump?

Cast has rpms but won't accelerate even st full throttle

The Check engine light came on while driving and engine shut off. We towed the car home. After cleaning the camshaft sensor, the check engine light cleared off and the car would start and idle, although it still had an engine knock (this knock was never noticed before the engine died). I also checked the crankshaft sensor, which seemed to be okay. After we got it running, I drove it about one mile, taking it very easy and staying under 25mph and 2000rpm, the engine lost power again. It would not restart. Three hours later, we put it on a code scanner, and it didn't pull any codes. I bought a new camshaft sensor and installed it, but nothing seemed to change. I restarted it, and idled home for probably half a mile. There is no check engine light and a code scan shows "pass". The car will now start, but it will not rev any higher than idle speed. All four cylinders seem to be running and the mass air flow seems to be okay. What should I check next, since I cannot get a diagnostic code?

The knock has been there since it was towed home. After cleaning the camshaft sensor, the knock was not as noticeable, and the check engine light cleared. I did change the camshaft sensor, although that didn't help any. If I start the engine cold, it does idle and you can hear a softer knock. You can then rev the engine, but the knock is much louder at higher rpm's. However, if you try to drive the car, after a few feet, it seems to lose all power and the engine will shut off within a mile. Then, it will have to cool down before it will start again. All I have now is an OBD II scanner.

My neighbor who has done a lot of work on cars also said he thought it was a rod or bearing when the engine was running. I just can't believe that the check engine light isn't on. I am going to take it to the local Nissan dealership Monday. Thanks.

My car stalls when I drive it. I believe it is in fail safe mode(don't know). I ran the codes on the car and it only told me the AIT sensor was bad so I replaced the MAF(IAT built in). I changed the battery, air filter, spark plugs, filled up with 93 octane, used octane booster, fuel injector cleaner, and replaced fuel pump. Can someone help me out and tell me what is going on. If you need more info then let me know please. Thanks

Will check thanks

I just replaced both catalytic converters today and it now stalls at around 50 anymore suggestions