1995 Saturn SW1 Repair Question
1995 Saturn SW1 running rich when cold
1995 Saturn SW1 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic
I have a 95 SW1, 102,000miles. It runs on one or two cylinders at start up, then eventually will run fine after coming to operating temp. . I have replaced the engine coolant sensor with a brass tipped one. I suspect an poor engine swap with an different year engine. The only number i could find anywhere on the engine block is B004. I think this because there is a hole on the air filter box lined with a rubber seal (toward the inside not the fender side) that looks like it should have something in it. But it's empty. Perhaps a MAP sensor should go there. There is a four pin wiring connector that connects to a part with the numbers 4L21 and 16160359 on it. Two bolt holes , black plastic and the other side is metal. I think it may be part of a MAP sensor but not sure. That hangs from the wiring harness kind of near that hole in the air filter box and isn't connected to anything. I need to know what that unattached part is and what if anything goes into that hole in the air filter box.
That is your egr module it should be taped to your main loom over by where your coolant temp sensor is then there is a connector that goes to it.That empty hole that your looking to fill in your air box a baffle goes in there.Also which coolant temp sensor did you change you should have changed the the bottom one with two wire's going to it.Also you should have inspected the connector that goes to the coolant temp sensor if it's corroded you need to replace the connector too.
I did replace the lower coolant temp sensor that has two wires and the connector looked clean and not corroded. It has an EGR valve that is connected and I don't see a place to bolt on the part I showed. It could be that the wiring doesn't matrch the EGR in the engine though. All the EGR valves I could find on line for 95 SW1s have 5 pins, this thing has 4. So I looked at other years but all electronic EGRs had 5 pins. I feel sure this was an engine swap of another year or something. The part I showed does come out of the main wiring loom where you said , but it doesn't seem like there's wire enough to reach the EGR. It sits about half way between the engine block and the air filter box. I've been trying to figure this out for a year.I hope there's some way to rig it up to work.
That part you posted is a egr module it doesn't bolt anywhere it get's taped toe the engine harness and has a connector that goes to it.Look for a loose connector that run's along the engine harness towards the air box.When you find the connector plug it into the module and tape it down to the harness.Over by your coil pack where the engine and transmission meet there is a vin number on the engine block giv me the last eight of that number.
I hadn't been able to find the VIN on the engine block until you told me right where it would be. It is:
That looks right for the 95 model year, I hope. The reason I felt it was a bad engine swap was the dangling EGR module and the fact that many wires had been cut and reattached with those cheap quicky blue clip connectors. I've repaired each of those by clipping one wire at a time and soldering and sealing with heat shrink and electronic grade silicone sealant. Do I tape the EGR module right to the main wiring loom with the metal side toward the loom?
The connector side toward the loom did you find the connector that goes to the module?
Yes, I had removed the EGR module myself to take the pictures to try to identify it. So it's back in the right place, I just didn't tape it in yet. It wasn't taped to anything to start, just hanging there. That's why i thought it was only part of something or else there was a missing place to put it, so a different year engine.
Is the engine number right for the car? Car Vin ends in same last 9 digits.
If the last nine number's on the the engine and the car vin are the same sound's like the engine was never changed.