Recharge the battery get it up to 12.6 volts or better. AZ did they do both no load and load test on the starter-it doesn't mean because the starter spin its okay-if the overruning clutch is gone it will not turn the engine.
Your starter control circuit is working from the ignition switch thru the neutral safety switch-starter relay or solenoid-something is preventing full battery voltage to the starter-if its going thru and engine refuse to crank I would say the starter is gone. Try banging it while attempting to crank it.
Hope this helps
Read below:
IS IT REALLY THE STARTER? Any one of a number of things can prevent an engine from starting. An engine needs the right combination of air, fuel, compression and ignition to start. If any of these is lacking, the engine may be hard to start or not start at all.
If nothing happens when the ignition switch is turned to the start position, it may mean the starter motor has failed, or there may be an open in the ignition switch, starter circuit wiring or neutral safety switch on the transmission linkage. Some vehicles with manual transmissions also have a safety switch on the clutch pedal that prevents the starter from cranking unless the clutch pedal is depressed. Other causes of no cranking may include a bad solenoid, loose or corroded battery cables or even a low or dead battery.
The first thing that should always be inspected is the battery to make sure it has enough voltage to operate the starter. A discharged battery or one that is badly sulfated may not be capable of producing enough voltage or amps to start the engine.
The next check would be the starter motor itself. Using a jumper to bypass the solenoid is a trick that will show if the starter motor spins or not. If the starter works when bypassing the solenoid, the problem is in the solenoid or ignition circuit.
If an engine cranks at normal speed but refuses to start, it’s probably not the starter - unless the starter motor is pulling so many amps from the battery that there isn’t enough voltage left to power the ignition system and fuel injectors.
A good starter will normally draw 60 to 150 amps with no load on it, and up to 250 amps under load (while cranking the engine). The no-load amp draw depends on the design of the starter, so always refer to the starter motor amp specifications when bench testing a starter.
If the drive gear mechanism can be replaced separately, there is no need to replace the entire starter - only the drive mechanism (which is often referred to as a "Bendix" drive). This is not recommended on permanent magnet gear reduction starter motors. If faulty, the entire starter should be replaced.
A bad solenoid can also be a source of starter problems. The solenoid acts like a relay to route power directly to the starter from the battery. It may be mounted on the starter or located elsewhere in the engine compartment and is usually connected to the positive battery cable. Corrosion, poor ground at the solenoid mount, or poor battery cable connections will prevent the solenoid from doing its job. Replacement is necessary if the solenoid is defective or stuck open or closed
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Saturday, May 26th, 2007 AT 9:20 PM
