Flex pipe

The steel braiding is there only to give the "flex" part of the pipe some strength.

Once this has reach this point, it is only a matter of time before there is a hole and a leak. So if you want to replace it now or wait for the leak that is up to you.

If it were me, you can get a flex pipe part and just cut that out and replace it. However, you would most likely need to weld it in so if the rest of the exhaust is similar in condition then I would just wait for a leak and replace the whole thing at one time.

Let me know what questions you have. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/exhaust-system-removal

Yes. You can use those but you will just need to find a flex pipe that will fit over or into the existing pipe. Most of the flex pipes are the same size diameter so you would need to get couplers or find one that will go over or in.

Are you in the rust belt? More then likely the ones that you have seen in great condition are maid of stainless steel. Take a look at the attachment. If you are not getting a stainless flex pipe then they will rust out quickly.

The reason stainless steel does not rust is because of the chemical make up of the metal. However, when this is in corrosive environments like near seawater or the rust belt even stainless steel will corrode. Since you are in the rust belt the salt and chemical that the DOT uses for ice treatment will corrode most any metal. You can undercoat the vehicle but that will just prolong the rust damage. This is why most people don't buy classic cars from your states because it is like a cancer.

As for why you have seen others last longer then yours is most likely how the vehicle is stored (in doors/outdoors). If you store your vehicle on gravel or grass and live in the rust belt, then I would expect most metal components to last a matter of a few years before seeing serious signs like this. Grass and gravel are the worst places to store a vehicle because they are constantly releasing moisture back up to the atmosphere so the metal never really dries out. It makes perfect conditions for rust growth. Then add the chemicals from the road and you will not get much life at all.

The next thing is washing routine. Vehicles in the rust belt need to be washed (including the undercarriage) once per week or 2-3 times per month. Then at least once per week through the winter. Basically you need to wash those chemicals off so they are not sitting on there.

Again, it is hard to know this for sure but I suspect the vehicles that you have seen with these flex pipes in good condition are washed regularly and garage kept. If your vehicle is as well, then I suspect you were sold a stainless steel product that was not actually stainless steel because I can't explain it otherwise.

I am sorry. I forgot that part. Got caught up in what I was saying and left that out.

There is no difference in what they do. The difference is just on how they go on. The flat is less common and usually used when you don't want to separate the pipe to fit each end into the pre-formed clamp.

Yes. To answer the question of it going in or over. It really doesn't matter as long as it is tight but most replacement "add in" exhaust pipes that you find will have the enlarged opening as the exhaust pipe that you are putting it on is already a standard size like a 2 inch pipe.

Let me know if you have other questions. Thanks

Looks like that is the two sections of pipe before the converter. If so then yes, that is another flex pipe. Take a look at the attachment of a replacement.

They are simply different designs. The only purpose of a flex pipe is to absorb the vibrations from the engine and to allow the motor to rock a little bit when accelerating. Which is why they are normally always positioned on the exhaust after where the pipes mount to the engine (manifolds) and before the catalytic converter. Clearly the company that only has one of them feels that the pipe with no flex pipe does not move that much and it is not needed.

If it were me and I had a choice, I would go with the one with two flex pipes.

I never have. As long as you are able to tighten the clamp enough it will seal the joint. That sealant doesn't really prevent an exhaust leak anyway because if the clamp is not tight enough it will eventually blow through the sealant as well. So if the clamp is tight it won't leak so you don't need the sealant. Plus it is mostly used once you have a leak so again, I would not use it.

Thanks for the updates and using 2CarPros.

Oh. Sorry. I understand. No there is no sealant needed for those either. Thanks for clarifying.

Take a look at this exploded view. Number 1 is the converter, 2 is the resonator/silencer, 3 is the muffler.

The resonator is the same thing as the silencer. It is also called the center exhaust pipe or center section.

The resonator is there to modify the engine pulses so that the muffler can minimize the noise. If the exhaust is just load and sounds like there is muffler, I suspect the muffler is the issue. However, if the exhaust just sounds different and not necessarily louder, that is normally the resonator.

It is not that easy to determine which one the issue is if you don't have a trained hear so most people just replace both at the same time since they have to disconnect the to get either off.